WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings

   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #31  
hmmm, ive never seen a metal building in all my days with screws on the ridges. who knows. There always in the valleys.

Personally, if i ever have to do it again im going to spend the extra $$4 and get the NO EXPOSED screw style of roofing.

heres an install guide from a manufacturer?

http://www.ddmetal.com/Plus%20rib%20install%20guide.5.25.04.pdf

Around here they are putting all the screws on the Ridges. Has been that way forever.

Guess its just done different in every region.

Chris
 
   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #32  
When making chili some people say brown the ground meat first and drain, others say cook it all together, that's where the flavor is.
Personally I like to simmer cubed meat with spices for awhile before adding the other ingredients.

I prefer following the manufacturers instructions when installing roofing though. After all it is THEIR warranty you are expecting to be honored.

Agreed.

And if beans are added.. all bets are off as it's not chili.


Here's where things get interesting for the building owner:
Who is the signed-off engineer for the project?
If none.. the owner is the engineer/owner of the problem.

If there's stamped plans and a design guide, then it's either to the manufacturer or the installing contractor.

If the problems are due to the finish failing, that's one thing. If it's install residue, that's another.

Either way.. I appreciate the post here by the building owner as that's something to inspect or demand in the contract.

-Luke
 
   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #33  
hmmm, ive never seen a metal building in all my days with screws on the ridges. who knows. There always in the valleys.

Personally, if i ever have to do it again im going to spend the extra $$4 and get the NO EXPOSED screw style of roofing.

heres an install guide from a manufacturer?

http://www.ddmetal.com/Plus%20rib%20install%20guide.5.25.04.pdf

I just finished building my barn. The metal was manufactured near by in Cleveland TN. Actually the blank sheets are purchased and they bend them in a roller press. The guy that sold me the kit said in the valley. I went to the manufacture web site and they had very thorough instruction for all the different panels they use. On mine it clearly shows in the valley. On another panel similar to mine it shows in the valley and on the ridge of the overlap. I say do what the manufacturer says.
 
   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #34  
Screwing in the valley (recommended by most manufacturers) is the easiest, fastest way for a professional or amateur to install metal roofing that looks really nice from the ground, even if the screws aren't perfectly aligned (level).

The roofing metal manufacturer's warranty for the metal I installed covers paint/finish defects (flaking/fading) and rust holes for 40 years- it does not cover leaks.

My opinion is that in the long run (even though installation is much more difficult) screwing through the ribs will result in fewer potential leaks which will help the purlins last longer.

I support and respect everyone that screws their roofing through the flats (valleys) and I don't feel at all like they made a bad choice (in fact, they did it "by the book")- we all do things a bit differently. Just like it was pointed out that we all cook a little differently.

If a friend or relative had their new roof screwed through the flats, I'd honestly tell them that it looked nice and I'd be genuinely happy for them.


Going back to the original post- I think we can all agree that there should have been a rubber washer under each of the screw heads- even if it was siding. I wasn't trying to criticize the installer for screw placement (they were following the manufacturer's instructions). I don't think that the OP could criticize the contractor on screw placement.
 
   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #35  
So MFR. says it "shall be done" thusly? If in the flats and the degrees are very slight, it looks as the screws in valley would have a better chance of leaking. Gr- said he had his for 14 years and no leaks, they used some good screws for sure...Something not mentioned here was the extra long screws needed on some of the ridge jobs to hold ridge to backing? I was also interested in the part about not having the plastic enclosed insulation under the metal?One more note: Our new Tek screws are so cheap, we have several twist off in every batch.Plus some of them have a metal washer, between the head and the rubber or syn. part? Guess that type is for the sides?
 
   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #36  
THE REASON THE RUST IS ON THE WALLS IS THE HOT SHARP SHAVEINGS FROM THE SELF TAPING SCREWS MELT INTO THE PAINT JUST ENOUGH TO STICK.

You wont have this problem on the roof if it is plain galv. tin , as the shaveings have nothing to stick in , and either blow away or get washed away with the first rain

Just to put this back on track, Grizzly Dave get the cigar!!!! The installer caused this not the manufacture.
 
   / WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings #37  
I built a pole barn 8 years ago and screwed through the ridges on the roof (flats for the siding). It held up great in a near miss with a tornado (I lost a bunch of 6 year old shingles off the house in that storm). There have been no leaks and no problems with the pole barn roof so I did it the same way (through the ribs) when I roofed my house and garage a few months ago.

As far as I can tell, the only downside with going through the ribs is that it is much more challenging and slower to install and keep it square on the roof. If you put too much pressure on the screw, it will spread the rib slightly. If one end of the sheet's ribs get deformed more than the other, then the sheets will get out of square with the roof. Some websites say that you can't get a good seal on the rib, but as long as you center the screw perfectly on the rib, it will seal nicely.
Another negative is that it is harder to walk on safely (screwing through the flats will give you a good foothold -stepping in the screw heads).

The upside of going through the ribs is that the potential for leaks is greatly lessened. Metal sheets expand and contract daily as they heat and cool- this can actually elongate the screw holes over the years, which can eventually lead to a poor seal. A poor seal is more likely to leak when exposed to more water (like if the screw is on the flat). A little water leaked during every rain over the years will eventually rot out the wood around the screw and it will no longer hold.

I know that 95% of the metal roofs in my area are screwed through the flat- it is definitely the quickest and easiest way to install the roof.

Most manufacturers do say to put screw it through the flat but interestingly enough they say to nail it through the rib.

Screwing it through the flat is easy, fast and looks good (you can't tell when from looking at it from the ground if the screws aren't perfectly aligned like you can with screws in the ribs). My concern was more about long term durability (50 years down the road) and that's why I screwed it through the ribs.

When they did my roof (screws on ridges), they pre-drilled the sheets of metal together on the ground, and they everything lined up, and there were no problems with not being square.

Ken
 

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