WARNING-STAR/NCI Metal Buildings

[Western]

I've put up a lot of metal siding and never seen that except on older buildings and not that frequent. I have also never seen the metal "shavings" melt into a vertical installation. It does make sense that the particles left could have rusted if on a shallow pitched roof.

The Screws for the ridges are Lap-Tek, they have a more aggressive "thread" and are used to secure panels together which helps with vibration noise in the wind and keeps the edges tight. Also used for trim when the "thread is needed and going from tin to tin (not purlin)

The valley screws are less aggressive threads, more for self tapping into purlin, like a Tek2 or Tek3 screw. A good metal building has both ridge and valley screws in place.

Either way they both come with rubber washers and from those photos, I don't see them. May be possible if this is a few screws and not all of them, the installer used a "bad" screw that heated more than drilled and when it did bite, the washer was destroyed.

I would pull every screw from the rusted area and put in a new one if it was me. Also try "Simple Green" cleaner, that stuff is amazing and will brighten the color on metal siding. I have even used it to remove tar and the clean tin looked new.

It does look like an installer issue, but the metal should also have a warranty covering rust.

May need to lawyer up on this one. Just my:2cents:

 

[grsthegreat]

My metal had a 20 year rust warranty, but specifically doesnt cover rust caused from drilling or scratching thru the surface protection.

 

[jonyyuma]

So there is more than one way to screw down the metal. i was looking at a fishing cabin, to buy it. I saw the uncoated screws in the flats and wrote it off as to them not knowing how to install it. Some of the premium roofs here have no screws showing. the ridges lock together. Others have screws thru the ridges?I guess from all the replys, that now they have material for the screws that seal and do not deteriate or split and fall off?Just trying to understand proper installation, so I can make a better purchase.

 

[KRBrouwer]

Screws on ridges are the only way they do it in North Carolina. I had a long debate with the contractor/installer and what he said made sense to me, "why put the screws in the valleys where all the water flows".

Ken

 

[grsthegreat]

Screws on ridges are the only way they do it in North Carolina. I had a long debate with the contractor/installer and what he said made sense to me, "why put the screws in the valleys where all the water flows".

Ken

hmmm, ive never seen a metal building in all my days with screws on the ridges. who knows. There always in the valleys.

Personally, if i ever have to do it again im going to spend the extra $$4 and get the NO EXPOSED screw style of roofing.

heres an install guide from a manufacturer?

http://www.ddmetal.com/Plus%20rib%20install%20guide.5.25.04.pdf

 

[DJ54]

Screws on ridges are the only way they do it in North Carolina. I had a long debate with the contractor/installer and what he said made sense to me, "why put the screws in the valleys where all the water flows".

Ken

I've been trying to explain that to the salesman at the local 84 Lumber here, that installed the screws on half my shop roof, that is now LEAKING, 10 months later. Actually 13 months now... I've been calling the contractor for 3 months now, trying to get him back to replace the whole roof on that side..., 'cause everyone is pointing their fingers at him. And he refuses to return my calls...

Contacted two lawyers, and they tell me it will cost more for their fee's, then to go ahead and fix it... THAT'S NOT THE POINT...!!!!!

I specified I wanted the screws in the rib, not in the valley. I told him if it leaks in the ribs, I will fix it. Contractor went deer hunting.... Salesman assumes being boss that day, and has the crew predrill, and put screw in the valley, unknown to me, until the following Monday. Now, he just shrugs his shoulders... He did offer to give me a new bag of screws...., LOL.. GRRRRRR....

Why can't people be held accountable for what they screw up..??

 

[grsthegreat]

All 3 of my buildings are roofed with screws in the valleys. The oldest building is 14 years old, the newest is 4 years old. Absolutely no leaks. Im in snow country too.

Our local metal supplier has a sample building they installed so contractors can inspect how they REQUIRE their buildings to be built. Their roofing (unless its seamless style) have screws in the valleys also.

 

[DJ54]

All 3 of my buildings are roofed with screws in the valleys. The oldest building is 14 years old, the newest is 4 years old. Absolutely no leaks. Im in snow country too.

Our local metal supplier has a sample building they installed so contractors can inspect how they REQUIRE their buildings to be built. Their roofing (unless its seamless style) have screws in the valleys also.

I called the metal supplier, and they recommend putting it in the valley, not require... And that is on a direct placement, metal to wood. Mine has 1/2" foil faced insulation, to keep the roof from dripping all over, when it sweats in the spring. I have not found anyone saying how to attach it, when insulation is installed underneath.

I'll stick with in the rib... I have a pole barn built in 1969, with aluminum roof, nailed in the ribs... Still no leaks..!!

 

[KYErik]

I built a pole barn 8 years ago and screwed through the ridges on the roof (flats for the siding). It held up great in a near miss with a tornado (I lost a bunch of 6 year old shingles off the house in that storm). There have been no leaks and no problems with the pole barn roof so I did it the same way (through the ribs) when I roofed my house and garage a few months ago.

As far as I can tell, the only downside with going through the ribs is that it is much more challenging and slower to install and keep it square on the roof. If you put too much pressure on the screw, it will spread the rib slightly. If one end of the sheet's ribs get deformed more than the other, then the sheets will get out of square with the roof. Some websites say that you can't get a good seal on the rib, but as long as you center the screw perfectly on the rib, it will seal nicely.
Another negative is that it is harder to walk on safely (screwing through the flats will give you a good foothold -stepping in the screw heads).

The upside of going through the ribs is that the potential for leaks is greatly lessened. Metal sheets expand and contract daily as they heat and cool- this can actually elongate the screw holes over the years, which can eventually lead to a poor seal. A poor seal is more likely to leak when exposed to more water (like if the screw is on the flat). A little water leaked during every rain over the years will eventually rot out the wood around the screw and it will no longer hold.

I know that 95% of the metal roofs in my area are screwed through the flat- it is definitely the quickest and easiest way to install the roof.

Most manufacturers do say to put screw it through the flat but interestingly enough they say to nail it through the rib.

Screwing it through the flat is easy, fast and looks good (you can't tell when from looking at it from the ground if the screws aren't perfectly aligned like you can with screws in the ribs). My concern was more about long term durability (50 years down the road) and that's why I screwed it through the ribs.

 

[johng52]

When making chili some people say brown the ground meat first and drain, others say cook it all together, that's where the flavor is.
Personally I like to simmer cubed meat with spices for awhile before adding the other ingredients.

I prefer following the manufacturers instructions when installing roofing though. After all it is THEIR warranty you are expecting to be honored.