Warranty issue dispute with Kubota - Advice anyone

[Leejohn]

When the engine gets hot it expels any excess fluid thru this tube to the reservoir. After you shutoff the engine and it cools it sucks the fluid back into the radiator. Great setup. When everything is working you never have to top off the radiator. It reuses what would normally be spit onto the ground.

If the tube has a hole it will expel the heated fluid onto the ground. When the engine cools it cannot create a vacuum and refill from the reservoir. It only sucks air thru the hole. Eventually an overheat situation will occur. Very possible that the gauge won't reflect this.

You got it so right, only 2 hoses and one small tube hooked to the radiator.

 

[MHarryE]

Most of my vehicles and equipment say not to remove the radiator cap. The radiator needs to be completely full for the draw back from the reservoir to work. Kubota says to check the reservoir; they do not say to remove the radiator cap on any of my 5 Kubotas. As pointed out in the copy of a manual posted earlier, Kubota, in all of my manuals, says only to remove the cap if the level is below the low and then to do it only when it is safely cold filling the radiator completely. So now it comes to the leaky overflow hose (I assume that is the leak because an air leak in it will prevent draw back). What caused this leak? Could it have been there from the start? Mine are so well covered it’s difficult to see how they could be damaged but I don’t have the particular model involved. Also, the sender is not in the head - it is in the block so a lot of fluid must be lost before it becomes uncovered. My experience is overheating will occur long before the sensor is dry. By the way, I have a GR2120 sensor handy because I found the sensor on mine defective. The new one will change when heated with my heat shrink gun. Once again not the same as the OP’s tractor. But was the leaky tube the lower radiator hose? Now we are talking something more prone to damage, sudden coolant dump, and engine failure.

 

[Takman]

If y'all think they work that's cool, but I wouldn't trust it.

 

[airbiscuit]

...What caused this leak? Could it have been there from the start? Mine are so well covered it’s difficult to see how they could be damaged but I don’t have the particular model involved. Also, the sender is not in the head - it is in the block so a lot of fluid must be lost before it becomes uncovered. My experience is overheating will occur long before the sensor is dry. By the way, I have a GR2120 sensor handy because I found the sensor on mine defective. The new one will change when heated with my heat shrink gun. Once again not the same as the OP’s tractor. But was the leaky tube the lower radiator hose? Now we are talking something more prone to damage, sudden coolant dump, and engine failure.

The engine is locked up. Why do I wonder if the OP missed seeing an idiot light or temperature gauge?

 

[number two]

The OP should have noticed the lack of reading on the temp guage during warm-up and early operation minutes.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I scrolled through this pretty fast and may have missed it. Do you have the KTAC insurance? If you do that may be your recourse. Read the policy.

Ron

 

[RickB]

I scrolled through this pretty fast and may have missed it. Do you have the KTAC insurance? If you do that may be your recourse. Read the policy.

Ron

That question remains unanswered.

 

[tommytaz]

if it turns out you have fix it yourself, and engine just froze and didn't throw a rod maybe remove the head and squirt some brake fluid in cylinders that might break it free,, have done it with car engines then use wrench to turn it over by hand

 

[Jstpssng]

The OP should have noticed the lack of reading on the temp guage during warm-up and early operation minutes.

I've had a couple of pickups with bad radiators over the years and as the water level drops the gauge never moves. That's one disadvantage of electric sending units vs sensors.

 

[ericm979]

I don't know about tractor temp gauges but modern automotive ones are usually three state idiot lights disguised as gauges. They indicate low, normal, and high. The "normal" state often has a large range. Making the gauge move gradually like a real gauge would is part of the illusion.