Washer head structural screws on skirts and girts: Sink the heads flush?

[Rustyiron]

Gotcha, note that little detail that's just under the plate. I think their calling for a 2x6 vertically for basically more nailing or screwing opportunity to create an 1 1/2 bearing surface. That's in several locations, I'd recommend every post.
I still think that 5 perlins on those 9'6" walls @ 28.5 inches is the way I'd do it along with the diagonals from under the plate to the bottom of the next post in, nailed at every opportunity.

 

[rbstern]

Yep, aware of the blocks.

 

[s219]

Standard for me is 2x4 wall girts 24" on center. Works well for both metal and wood siding. No need to go with wider girts really. The structural benefits of girts is having them create a grid structure spread over the wall, so you want as many girts as is feasible. I also run a diagonal 2x4 between posts and that gets nailed into the posts and the girts. Results in very good shear strength in the wall.

I have used 2x6 for the skirt board, but find 2x8 is a better size overall.

 

[Hay Dude]

I think some of your terminology is different from mine. If I understand you, your "plate" is basically a tall wall girt or purl in and you'll have 2, one outside and the other inside. This is in effect the beam for the trusses. These sound small, are you using some type of "kit"?
As for the wall girts/purlins, I'd use something between 24"-32". Basically a length in that area that gives you a even nailing pattern for the siding. (Divide the wall height by X to get it in that 24-32" range. These are important beyond just holding the siding on and actually helping to "rack" the building and attach an actual diagonal brace to.
You need to visually separate all the other Lumber in these pictures, but look for the diagonals. VERY important to have at both sides of every corner if possible.
View attachment 741634
View attachment 741635
What's your post spacing and how long are the trusses?

Poured concrete foundation? Like it!

 

[rbstern]

Our local Home Depot has 2x8 lumber signficantly cheaper than 2x6 lumber. As nonsensical as that seems, I'm assuming it's based on a supply-and-demand issue, since 2x6 is such a common rafter size and more in demand for house-building.

Examples:

2x8x12 is currently $14.82. 2x6x12 is $19.55.
2x8x16 is currently $20.22. 2x6x16 is $26.62.

Weird, right?

Anyway, any reason I can't sub in 2x8 for 2x6 for the rafters? A bit heavier, yes, and a slightly taller roofline, but I end up with a stronger roof for less $.

 

[Rustyiron]

Go for it!

 

[rbstern]

2x8s everywhere I turned...

 

[WM75Guy]

Looks really good. Keep us informed on the progress.

 

[rbstern]

Now have concrete questions, but figured, instead of creating new topics for each question, I should just post them in the build thread for our barn.

Thanks for all of the generous answers on this thread, and for whatever you care to chip in on the project thread.

Our barn build

Also, our clay does drain. Slower than sand, for sure, but it does drain. Let's revisit this thread in 25 to 30 years, and we'll see what happened. :) You'll be totally fine. If you have the drainage around the building flowing well away (roof overhang/gutters/downspouts/slopes away from...

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