Ballast Water Ballast in Tyres

[Neat 1500]

I would like to try this to see if it helps with sideslope tilt, and also just a fraction more weight over the rear. what have you found to be the easiest way to fill the rear tyres with water? i thought maybe deflating, lay them on the ground with a hose from a 20 odd litre container and allow it to gravity feed. would this work? suggestions anyone?

 

[normde2001]

Get yourself a liquid/air tire valve adapter,(about $10 US), and fill with a garden hose. Don't forget, you will need to add air and maybe anti-freeze.

 

[California]

Or make one if you already have the components.

I'm assuming you live in a climate (Australia) where you don't need freeze protection, or else or can park within shelter.

Jack the weight off the tire, remove the valve core, and your garden hose pressure will fill the tire. Halt occasionally to bleed off air.

Note this homemade tool has the pin removed which pushes down on the (absent) valve core. No water would come out, if the pin were still installed.

Finish with the valve at 12:00 position (top) and leave airspace above that so the tire can still have some resiliency. Replace the valve core and air up to the minimum specified for that size tire.

If you always check tire pressure with the valve at the top, you can bleed a little air to clear the valve so you won't run water into your tire gauge.

I found that filling the tires made a large improvement in side-slope stability plus improved the traction for discing. But with my oversize tires, the excess weight required that I climb the grades in my orchard in a lower gear. After I installed the ROPS I reduced the tire fill to 50%.

 

[Neat 1500]

Or make one if you already have the components.
View attachment 141072
I'm assuming you live in a climate (Australia) where you don't need freeze protection, or else or can park within shelter.

Jack the weight off the tire, remove the valve core, and your garden hose pressure will fill the tire. Halt occasionally to bleed off air.

Note this homemade tool has the pin removed which pushes down on the (absent) valve core. No water would come out, if the pin were still installed.

Finish with the valve at 12:00 position (top) and leave airspace above that so the tire can still have some resiliency. Replace the valve core and air up to the minimum specified for that size tire.

If you always check tire pressure with the valve at the top, you can bleed a little air to clear the valve so you won't run water into your tire gauge.

I found that filling the tires made a large improvement in side-slope stability plus improved the traction for discing. But with my oversize tires, the excess weight required that I climb the grades in my orchard in a lower gear. After I installed the ROPS I reduced the tire fill to 50%.

Correct assumption California,no anti-freeze required here.Funny you show a picture of that style of valve fitting as i have one of that exact one. so just remove the stem pin, fit a water fitting on it and away i go? i will try this during the week and see how i go.

 

[California]

just remove the stem pin, fit a water fitting on it and away i go?

Yes.

Here's the premium, optional, Professional version.

 

[Neat 1500]

so off to the shed i go!

 

[Gary Fowler]

I sure hope you had all those fittings, valves, hose to pipe adapters, pipe and air chuck in hand. The cost of all that more than equals the made for purpose tire adapter for water filling. I think I paid $6.99 form mine with all the adapters to fit all the different valve stems. I didnt need any of those as the filler fits handily on the stem when you unscrew the large plug. It fills much faster that way also. I just hooked it up, turned on the hose and filled it about have full, bled the air and then filled it again till the sound of running water changed. Shut off the hose and let the excess water bled off till air was escaping, then reinstalled the plug. Took less than an hour including placing the jacks under the tractor to take all the weight off.
Oh and there is a special low pressure tire gauge for use in water you can buy at most tractor supply houses for about $4.

 

[normde2001]

It's usually recommended to fill with water to the valve stem, ( at 12:00, with tire off the ground), replace the core, then finish up with normal psi of air.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

I remember reading somewhere that you should have the water full enough to keep the rim submerged to help with rush prevention. I believe (but could be wrong) that antifreeze contains rust inhibitors, that would help keep your rims from rusting out.

 

[20 20]

Okay water hose with pressure will fill the tire. My question would be how would one add the anti-freeze? I've heard of folks useing winter grade washer fluid but that may be pricey and sometimes winter grade means "fancy label that cost more but doesn't really work when freezing". I have not filled my tires{live in a climate where it goes from winter to mild cold and back to winter } but am playing with the idea. I have had tractors in the past filled with calcium, but never did care for it because it WILL ruin rims.