Water Pressure

[TRR]

Sorry guys, but I need to put this in. I'm all for using the largest pipe possible to keep the pressure loss down, but at the same time I don't want stuff to grow in my drinking water either.

From:
http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/en/piped3.pdf

For the purposes of maintaining microbial quality, it is important to minimize
transit times and avoid low flows and pressures. These requirements have to be
balanced against the practicalities of supplying water according to the location
of consumers and where pipes can be laid.

Excessive capacity
The system should not have excessive capacity (which will result in long transit
times) unless this excess capacity is required to meet a known increase in future
demand.

Also in a different document:
http://www.kemper-olpe.de/pdf/pdf_6/zirkulationsbroschuere_en_low.pdf

The following should be mentioned as potential risk
factors for contamination of the building's cold water and
sometimes its hot water system:

• Inappropriate design (for example, oversizing of storage vessels and pipes)
• - Irregularly used sections of pipework with stagnant water
• - Defective, inexpert installation
• - Use of unsuitable materials and components
• - Operation in contravention of regulations
• - Temperature is excess of 20 ｺC in cold water system
• - Conditions favouring biofilm formation
• - Inappropriate leak testing prior to commissioning
• - Inappropriate commissioning

 

[TRR]

If pressure is a problem, you could always add a booster pump.

Yes, I know we want to avoid that because it costs more and is more maintenance. :thumbdown:

 

[ch47dpilot]

Would like to start and thank everyone for the information they provided me. I now have a twist on this forum. I'm planning on running larger dia water pipe for the run from the road to house, I'll let city engineer help me decide how big. The city offers water plans based on the size of you meter. From a 3/4" 2000 gal minimum for $13.86 to the 4" - 200,000gals for $316.80. My question is if I run say a 1.5-2" line from the road but only a 1" meter how will this restriction affect my water pressure at the house 400' later.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Would like to start and thank everyone for the information they provided me. I now have a twist on this forum. I'm planning on running larger dia water pipe for the run from the road to house, I'll let city engineer help me decide how big. The city offers water plans based on the size of you meter. From a 3/4" 2000 gal minimum for $13.86 to the 4" - 200,000gals for $316.80. My question is if I run say a 1.5-2" line from the road but only a 1" meter how will this restriction affect my water pressure at the house 400' later.

The extemely short 1" restriction will not even be noticed unless you draw a very heavy flow causing turbulent flow thru the restriction. On 1", about 15GPM+ is the flow ballpark there. Im guessing you may begin to notice a difference around 20GPM, but only if you could switch back and forth between a larger and smaller restricton. At higher flows it would become much more pronounced.
larry

 

[kenmac]

Would like to start and thank everyone for the information they provided me. I now have a twist on this forum. I'm planning on running larger dia water pipe for the run from the road to house, I'll let city engineer help me decide how big. The city offers water plans based on the size of you meter. From a 3/4" 2000 gal minimum for $13.86 to the 4" - 200,000gals for $316.80. My question is if I run say a 1.5-2" line from the road but only a 1" meter how will this restriction affect my water pressure at the house 400' later.

Going with 1 '' meter will not restrict pressure. Pressure is pressure. You will only restrict flow. Water main pressure will be determined by the water pressure on the main. If you are concerned about pressure. Add your PR ( pressure reducer) at the house. Size of your water line will depend fixtures in the home & pressure on the main. The longer the run ( ells etc,)the more pressure drop you will have & will need to increase the line for volume

 

[SPYDERLK]

Going with 1 '' meter will not restrict pressure. Pressure is pressure. You will only restrict flow. Water main pressure will be determined by the water pressure on the main. If you are concerned about pressure. Add your PR ( pressure reducer) at the house. Size of your water line will depend fixtures in the home & pressure on the main. The longer the run ( ells etc,)the more pressure drop you will have & will need to increase the line for volume

During flow there is pressure lost all along the pipe. The reason for larger pipe is to limit this loss at your typical flow demand.
larry

 

[kenmac]

During flow there is pressure lost all along the pipe. The reason for larger pipe is to limit this loss at your typical flow demand.
larry

Using larger pipe doesn't allow any more pressure. Using larger pipe allows you to make up pressure loss with volume

 

[SPYDERLK]

During flow there is pressure lost all along the pipe. The reason for larger pipe is to limit this loss at your typical flow demand.
larry

Using larger pipe doesn't allow any more pressure. Using larger pipe allows you to make up pressure loss with volume

... No.

 

[kenmac]

... No.

O' yes.. Been in plumbing /gas/hvac business for 25 + yrs. Sizing drains , water lines,fixtuers ,etc,. Knowing the main pressure would help

 

[SPYDERLK]

O' yes.. Been in plumbing /gas/hvac business for 25 + yrs. Sizing drains , water lines,fixtuers ,etc,. Knowing the main pressure would help

Surprised you dont know then ... Knowing main pressure and then flow and length and size of the service connect will let you calculate the reduced pressure at the service end when it is flowing the nominal amount. Larger size reduces the pressure loss at a given flow giving more pressure at that flow than a smaller pipe.
larry

 

[JD 4520]

I have a 2" line from the meter to the house and glad that it is that size. No issues with volume or pressure. Go as deep as possible, make sure you have a tracer wire, and lastly no spices if you can avoid it.