Water Pressure

[quicksandfarmer]

Of course we should not mention the toilets draining out

Toilet valves are designed to prevent backflow. That's why they spray water all over the inside of the tank. Even if they did they'd be sucking water from the tank which is (relatively) clean and not the bowl.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I see no problem with booster pumps if there is a checkvalve in the line to the pump so no back feed is possible.

Problem is it's not the guy with the booster pump who needs a check valve, it's everyone else.

 

[Egon]

Toilet valves are designed to prevent backflow. That's why they spray water all over the inside of the tank. Even if they did they'd be sucking water from the tank which is (relatively) clean and not the bowl.

:thumbsup:

 

[wagne223]

Thanks for the responses. The water company is owned by the residents of the subdivision and the current residents share in the operating costs and any upgrades/repairs to the systems. We also don't have any bylaws that I know of to prevent anyone from installing a booster pump, which I think would be problematic. The most recent communication from the board is that the system is operating as designed. IMO this is problematic since the neighborhood is only approx 2/3 built out with most avail lots on the upper section of the neighborhood. I think the solution is a storage tank with a booster pump to pressurize the lines from the tank to the house and once I can get consistent temps in the 60s, I will be installing the equipment.

In my opinion, this is your easiest solution as long as you understand that you need to maintain your cistern. Some quick points.

Sunlight allows algae growth. Dark containers or containers in a dark area are best.

Heat and Sunlight cause more rapid chlorine evaporation. If not maintained, bacteria will grow.

Be sure all vents are screened or have a foam filter. Frogs, insects and other critters will get in otherwise.

Lastly, and the most painful.........You will still be involved in the repairs, upgrades and issues that will plague the poorly designed community water supply.

 

[turnkey4099]

Exactly. Heard no mention of back flow mandatory requirement?

Of course if there is a real concern about back feed, then every installation would need the check valve.
Might be a problem ensuring that there was such.

 

[davek78063]

In my opinion, this is your easiest solution as long as you understand that you need to maintain your cistern. Some quick points.

Sunlight allows algae growth. Dark containers or containers in a dark area are best.

Heat and Sunlight cause more rapid chlorine evaporation. If not maintained, bacteria will grow.

Be sure all vents are screened or have a foam filter. Frogs, insects and other critters will get in otherwise.

Lastly, and the most painful.........You will still be involved in the repairs, upgrades and issues that will plague the poorly designed community water supply.

I have a large black tank. I think it is 1500 gals. I do live in TX so it does get hot. I do have a backflow preventer on my property. It is now required for all new construction. A few folks in the neighborhood are grandfathered but most do have one.

All the comments about putting a booster pump makes me wonder if someone hasn't done that and is causing some of the issues. As far as the solution to put a tank in the upper section that is really a non starter. First it would be expensive and the costs would be spread across all residents, not to mention the current board barely recognizes there is an issue much less inclined to spend the money to fix it right. Secondly there is no place to put it. There is no neighborhood owned land to put it on and I doubt anyone would allow it. If I had 15k I didn't know what to do with, I would dig my own well .

 

[PILOON]

My opinion is that no reservoir is needed.
The complaint is not lack of water but pressure is the issue.
The elevation is what results in lower pressures as the system pump was not rated for that.

With a booster pump the system main will be your reservoir, however for system protection I would install a back flow check valve that being to protect whole system possible contamination (and liability possible issues).

I suggest any holding tank that you might consider will merely add $$ and maintenance issues.
At most a booster that incorporates a small 'bladder tank' should do the trick.
Bladder tank's main contribution would be to modulate pressure hi/lows just as when used on wells.

 

[turnkey4099]

Problem is it's not the guy with the booster pump who needs a check valve, it's everyone else.

I already sta ted that in such a system EVERY connection needs one. How to ensure that is beyond me.

 

[ultrarunner]

Here they are checked/certified annually for a fee... failure to perform inspection and/or repair is grounds for disconnect.

 

[davek78063]

My opinion is that no reservoir is needed.
The complaint is not lack of water but pressure is the issue.
The elevation is what results in lower pressures as the system pump was not rated for that.

With a booster pump the system main will be your reservoir, however for system protection I would install a back flow check valve that being to protect whole system possible contamination (and liability possible issues).

I suggest any holding tank that you might consider will merely add $$ and maintenance issues.
At most a booster that incorporates a small 'bladder tank' should do the trick.
Bladder tank's main contribution would be to modulate pressure hi/lows just as when used on wells.

If we just put a pressure booster on wouldn't it eventually outstrip demand? If we were only getting 40 psi in and pumping 60 psi out I would think eventually we would outstrip the supply in the line; particularly if everyone started doing that. In fact I wonder if that isn't part of the issue, we have had a number of houses built (with a number of lots still to be built upon)in the past few years and the overall performance has gradually decreased.

As for the cost of the storage tank, I already have that as well as the pressure tank. Both are 10 yrs old. I assume the pressure tank will still be operable though if it isn't would only be a $200. The only reason it hasn't been connected is 1. I was originally quoted $2500 in parts/labor to connect a pump. Approx $1100 of that was some fancy pump with brass fittings I was told I needed and $1400 in labor. At this point thanks to all the help from this board I think I can do it myself. I just want to make sure whatever I do install is sustainable and doesn't become a headache. I also found a chlorine additive system for ~$300. My thought is that with the 1500 gal tank, I would be recycling the water every couple weeks.