Water Well Connections - Best Methods

   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #11  
I'd rather cut PVC and then glue it than use a union. Less likely to leak.
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #13  
Eventually you'll have to pull your pump to service. To do that, you have to pull from well head. Currently your setup doesn't appear to allow you to pull without cutting your PVC.

I use unions to allow easy disconnect from plumbing, pressure tanks, filters, etc and have had no leaks for over 10+ yrs on 2 wells.
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #14  
Your missing something, or I am. See the water running out of the valve? That will be where I connect planned expansion.

Yep, I saw the water, my question is how will you pull the pump in the future?

My well has a pitless adapter so they only have to pull the pump and pipe straight up without disconnecting any pipe.

PA.jpg
 
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   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #15  
I do not understand why people insist on putting the pressure tank right next to the well head. My pressure tanks are 50 feet away in a well house. That tank will probably have to be moved to service the well.
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #16  
I'm more concerned about what's holding the pipe up sticking out of the well seal? Usually I hang the pump on a nice stainless Tee that sits flat on the well seal. Yours seems to be hanging in air? Also the drop pipe appears to be glued and not screwed.......
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #17  
I do not understand why people insist on putting the pressure tank right next to the well head. My pressure tanks are 50 feet away in a well house. That tank will probably have to be moved to service the well.

Pump installers install the pump beside the well on new installations because there is no "Well House" or other structure on the property, just the well head and electrical service. Some do not have a electrical service at the time the pump is installed and the pump installer will use a generator to provide power to check everything prior to leaving. The property owner then has to get a electrician to do the electrical so the builder will have water.

I think the OP would have less headaches if he would re-locate the tank to another location that will provide "Freeze Protection" and use a "Pitiless Adapter" as described in Xfaxmans post # 14. He would then only have the Well Head and the electrical connection to cover with one of the decorative landscape rocks.

Water lines and electrical would all be under ground. He could fabricate or manufacture a four of five outlet two inch manifold with inch and a quarter outlets. The master outlet manifold needs to be placed in a freeze protected enclosure on the water supply line coming from the storage tank. Back flow valves needs to be placed on the main supply line shortly after it exits the pitiless adapter and on the supply line feeding the master manifold outlet.

I hope the OP did not use PCV all the way to the pump. Pump start up torque will soon crack that. A "Torque Arrestor" and "Pipe Stand Offs" also helps to provide longevity in pump installations.
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #18  
I have the pitiless adapter,line 3' in the ground,pressure tank and filter is in the house about 200' from the we'll.it's worked great for me for the past 22+years.
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I think the OP would have less headaches if he would re-locate the tank to another location that will provide "Freeze Protection" and use a "Pitiless Adapter" as described in Xfaxmans post # 14. He would then only have the Well Head and the electrical connection to cover with one of the decorative landscape rocks.

I hope the OP did not use PCV all the way to the pump. Pump start up torque will soon crack that. A "Torque Arrestor" and "Pipe Stand Offs" also helps to provide longevity in pump installations.

Thanks, I had not even though about relocating the tank, that may solve several problems, something to consider. The well was disconnected when I bought the property and I had it hooked up when I had electricity installed, not pretty, but has worked fine for the last 6-years as on demand water source when I need to clean up or fire control. The pump is secured by a stainless steel cable which supports the weight, not the PVC. No idea if they installed a torque arrestor or if the PVC will crack, can't see much point in pulling the pump before I have issues with it.
 
   / Water Well Connections - Best Methods #20  
I have the pitiless adapter,line 3' in the ground,pressure tank and filter is in the house about 200' from the we'll.it's worked great for me for the past 22+years.

Same here but I'm only 50' from the well. Neighbor drilled new well alongside an existing building then instead of putting the tank in his basement (some 100' away) he put it in one room in the shed and then spent a lot of bucks insulating and keeping alight burning to keep it from freezing.

All that after I told him it would work in his basement. "Nope, it HAS to be by the well".

I am also cross connected to a community well 1/4 mile away. Neighbor who has the place with the well had a pump problem, we opened up the crose connect (carefully pumping lots of water through that 1/4 mile containing stagnant water. Untill he got his pump fixed, my pressure tank worked just fine keeping his house going.

Harry K
 

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