Water Well Connections - Best Methods

[Beltzington]

After getting prepared to build a well cover it occurred to me I still need to run at least a couple underground waterlines for a future house and a yard spigot. Seems simple enough for the simple minded but I am cursed with over thinking everything. Currently my well pump has a 1.25" PVC ball valve not connected to anything. Assuming this will become my main shutoff valve how do I split this for multiple underground runs and how do you allow some flexibility for adding additional lines in the future without having to dig up everything and basically reconnect everything. I searched for a water manifold on the net but everything I found was for commercial construction. I have power lines and many trees around my well so I am limited on where the water lines can connect. Anyone have an ingenious solution? Here is the pump.

 

[SandburRanch]

For future access, every above ground ell you consider install a T and plug the unused opening to possibly be used in the future. Build your own manifold if parts are available. A word of caution using female screw fittings. Avoid if possible. Choose them carefully if they are absolutely necessary. They will crack because of the swaging force.

 

[turnkey4099]

For future access, every above ground ell you consider install a T and plug the unused opening to possibly be used in the future. Build your own manifold if parts are available. A word of caution using female screw fittings. Avoid if possible. Choose them carefully if they are absolutely necessary. They will crack because of the swaging force.

Amen to not using female plastic to iron adapters. I wound up with a major leak in the middle of January due to using one. Yup, split right on the casting seam.

Harry K

 

[SandburRanch]

Amen to not using female plastic to iron adapters. I wound up with a major leak in the middle of January due to using one. Yup, split right on the casting seam.

Harry K

I was fortunate to have better hearing 30 years ago and heard the coupling crack after hand tightening down in the trench and 2 short strokes with a pipe wrench. No guarantees with the hearing today.

 

[C4Ranch]

I have 4 line manifold made from T fittings with independent ball valves for each run.

If I need more will just splice on and continue. PVC is easy to work with.

 

[Beltzington]

I have 4 line manifold made from T fittings with independent ball valves for each run.

If I need more will just splice on and continue. PVC is easy to work with.

I assume everyone is using flexible PVC for underground water supply lines?

 

[Ford850]

I recently noticed a plumber using gray fittings when replacing some PVC around a well's tank. He said he only uses schedule 80 fittings, since they are less likely to crack.

 

[C4Ranch]

I assume everyone is using flexible PVC for underground water supply lines?

1 1/4" sch 40. Got a smokin deal from Lowes on 20' sticks they were trying to get out of their stores... Picked up 78 sticks for <$1.50 ea...

 

[Xfaxman]

Am I missing something or would you have to cut the PVC to pull the pump?

 

[C4Ranch]

Looks like maybe the 1st time but a union will fix it going forward....

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I'd rather cut PVC and then glue it than use a union. Less likely to leak.

 

[Beltzington]

Am I missing something or would you have to cut the PVC to pull the pump?

View attachment 410445

Your missing something, or I am. See the water running out of the valve? That will be where I connect planned expansion.

 

[C4Ranch]

Eventually you'll have to pull your pump to service. To do that, you have to pull from well head. Currently your setup doesn't appear to allow you to pull without cutting your PVC.

I use unions to allow easy disconnect from plumbing, pressure tanks, filters, etc and have had no leaks for over 10+ yrs on 2 wells.

 

[Xfaxman]

Your missing something, or I am. See the water running out of the valve? That will be where I connect planned expansion.

Yep, I saw the water, my question is how will you pull the pump in the future?

My well has a pitless adapter so they only have to pull the pump and pipe straight up without disconnecting any pipe.

 

[Jimbrown]

I do not understand why people insist on putting the pressure tank right next to the well head. My pressure tanks are 50 feet away in a well house. That tank will probably have to be moved to service the well.

 

[TheGoose]

I'm more concerned about what's holding the pipe up sticking out of the well seal? Usually I hang the pump on a nice stainless Tee that sits flat on the well seal. Yours seems to be hanging in air? Also the drop pipe appears to be glued and not screwed.......

 

[Gator6x4]

I do not understand why people insist on putting the pressure tank right next to the well head. My pressure tanks are 50 feet away in a well house. That tank will probably have to be moved to service the well.

Pump installers install the pump beside the well on new installations because there is no "Well House" or other structure on the property, just the well head and electrical service. Some do not have a electrical service at the time the pump is installed and the pump installer will use a generator to provide power to check everything prior to leaving. The property owner then has to get a electrician to do the electrical so the builder will have water.

I think the OP would have less headaches if he would re-locate the tank to another location that will provide "Freeze Protection" and use a "Pitiless Adapter" as described in Xfaxmans post # 14. He would then only have the Well Head and the electrical connection to cover with one of the decorative landscape rocks.

Water lines and electrical would all be under ground. He could fabricate or manufacture a four of five outlet two inch manifold with inch and a quarter outlets. The master outlet manifold needs to be placed in a freeze protected enclosure on the water supply line coming from the storage tank. Back flow valves needs to be placed on the main supply line shortly after it exits the pitiless adapter and on the supply line feeding the master manifold outlet.

I hope the OP did not use PCV all the way to the pump. Pump start up torque will soon crack that. A "Torque Arrestor" and "Pipe Stand Offs" also helps to provide longevity in pump installations.

 

[stingray1]

I have the pitiless adapter,line 3' in the ground,pressure tank and filter is in the house about 200' from the we'll.it's worked great for me for the past 22+years.

 

[Beltzington]

I think the OP would have less headaches if he would re-locate the tank to another location that will provide "Freeze Protection" and use a "Pitiless Adapter" as described in Xfaxmans post # 14. He would then only have the Well Head and the electrical connection to cover with one of the decorative landscape rocks.

I hope the OP did not use PCV all the way to the pump. Pump start up torque will soon crack that. A "Torque Arrestor" and "Pipe Stand Offs" also helps to provide longevity in pump installations.

Thanks, I had not even though about relocating the tank, that may solve several problems, something to consider. The well was disconnected when I bought the property and I had it hooked up when I had electricity installed, not pretty, but has worked fine for the last 6-years as on demand water source when I need to clean up or fire control. The pump is secured by a stainless steel cable which supports the weight, not the PVC. No idea if they installed a torque arrestor or if the PVC will crack, can't see much point in pulling the pump before I have issues with it.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have the pitiless adapter,line 3' in the ground,pressure tank and filter is in the house about 200' from the we'll.it's worked great for me for the past 22+years.

Same here but I'm only 50' from the well. Neighbor drilled new well alongside an existing building then instead of putting the tank in his basement (some 100' away) he put it in one room in the shed and then spent a lot of bucks insulating and keeping alight burning to keep it from freezing.

All that after I told him it would work in his basement. "Nope, it HAS to be by the well".

I am also cross connected to a community well 1/4 mile away. Neighbor who has the place with the well had a pump problem, we opened up the crose connect (carefully pumping lots of water through that 1/4 mile containing stagnant water. Untill he got his pump fixed, my pressure tank worked just fine keeping his house going.

Harry K