Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

RobJ · Jun 7, 2006

( Do you still have your old rod and main inserts laying around? If you do look on the back side of them and see if there is a "std" or ".010" stamped in them. )

This would be a good place to start. With that sort of drop I'd be concerned. Technically it's ok but that's a huge difference and the only place it you affected it is in the rod bearings. If something got in the oil pump it could do this, reduce flow and pressure, most any other blockages would cause an increase in pressure. Look on the block and see if you can move the oil pressure gauge to another oil galley, might just have a plug(bolt) in the hole. I'm going to guess the oil pump is on the front so if the pressure at the front of the block is higher than the rear then you know you have something in between.

I'd probably also start with tossing on a new oil filter just in case.

RobJ · Jun 7, 2006

( Do you still have your old rod and main inserts laying around? If you do look on the back side of them and see if there is a "std" or ".010" stamped in them. )

This would be a good place to start. With that sort of drop I'd be concerned. Technically it's ok but that's a huge difference and the only place it you affected it is in the rod bearings. If something got in the oil pump it could do this, reduce flow and pressure, most any other blockages would cause an increase in pressure. Look on the block and see if you can move the oil pressure gauge to another oil galley, might just have a plug(bolt) in the hole. I'm going to guess the oil pump is on the front so if the pressure at the front of the block is higher than the rear then you know you have something in between.

I'd probably also start with tossing on a new oil filter just in case.

BobG_in_VA · Jun 7, 2006

Tim, if the 560 needs a re-do, especially if its a gasser, go for it. Pistons, sleeves, mains, and head/valve job. Might replace the water pump as well. Go to "YTMAG" to the Farmall discussion board. All kinds of help there. All the parts should still be avail thru your Case/IH dealer. While you have it down,,,,how's the clutch??(you'd have to split the tractor for that though....http://www.ytmag.com/farmall/wwwboard1.html BobG in VA

BobG_in_VA · Jun 7, 2006

Tim, if the 560 needs a re-do, especially if its a gasser, go for it. Pistons, sleeves, mains, and head/valve job. Might replace the water pump as well. Go to "YTMAG" to the Farmall discussion board. All kinds of help there. All the parts should still be avail thru your Case/IH dealer. While you have it down,,,,how's the clutch??(you'd have to split the tractor for that though....http://www.ytmag.com/farmall/wwwboard1.html BobG in VA

rback33 · Jul 14, 2006

Eddie,

bones1 · Jul 15, 2006

Hello !!!

EddieWalker · Jul 15, 2006

Rob,

Sorry for not replying sooner. I didn't see your reply and thught the thread was dead. hahaha

Napa gave me a Donaldson oil filter that didn't fit quite right. I used it anyway figureing it was just me. Nope. I took it back and told them it was the wrong filter. There manuals include my dozer and that's what's listed for it. I told them I had a Napa Gold filter before and that's what I want.

They gave me the new filter and it fixed the problem. Of course, two weeks later, my little tube for my oil guage wore throught and washed the engine down in oil!!!

I have 150 hours on it now since the rebuild and it's running strong.

The last few days I've had to shut it down during the heat of the day because my transmission oil tempature warning light has come on. I cleaned the radiator real good, but that didn't help. I took out the thermostat and checked it in pot of water on the stove. It's stamped 120, and when my thermometer read 120 degrees, it was half open. A minute later it was fully open, so that's working.

I put my air hose into the line to the radiator and tried the blow the oil out. First try and the hose blew back out. Seemed something blocked it. I tried again and this time it blew oil out the other line real easy. Just oil.

Nothing else came out that I could see that would have cause the blockage and quetion whether there was one or not. It could have been that I tried too blast the air with too much preasure the first time and eased it in the second time when it worked.

When I replaced the oil filter, I also replaced my hyrdraulic oil filters. I had one Case filter on the left drive side and I put a Napa Gold filter on the right hand drive.

I cut each open and there are some significant differences.

The Case filter has two laters of a type of paper with a very thin, pourus material in between. This material is fell apart real easy. It's also very clean looking.

The Napa filter has the same two outer layers of paper, but the material in the middle is easily ten times thicker. It's also more fiberous and holds together pretty good. It's very dirt looking with dark colored oil.

I'm wondering if the Napa filters are cathing so much more dirt in the system that they are pluged up and causeing the oil to overheat. Does this make sense to anybody????

I'm thinking about pulling the filters off and cutting them in half just to see what's going on.

I'm guessing they have 100 hours on them, give or take a few hours.

rback and bones,

????? hi ?????

Eddie

kmdigital · Jul 15, 2006

Tim,
I'm pretty sure the 560 gas has dry sleaves. If it were a diesel I think it would have wet sleeves, but I rebuilt a 460 gas (many years ago) and it had dry sleaves. I think almost all IH gas engines used dry sleaves.

They are pretty easy to pull, using a puller similar to the one for wet sleaves, and they are slightly tapered at the bottom, so not that hard to insert. Make sure everything is good and clean, oil the sleave lightly, and drop it in and tap it down with a hardwood board (such as oak) and a hammer. There really isn't any reason to freeze them etc,

ScottAR · Jul 15, 2006

I concur with the filter disection... Few dollars on new filters is cheap compared to new hydraulic parts.

EddieWalker · Jul 16, 2006

Another thought that I have is to increase the amount of flow to the radiator. What would happen if I removed the thermostat?

If it's not there, then more fluid will get to the radiator. Greater volume and more cooling.

The negatives are that too much flow might not allow the oil to cool. I'm unsure if it will pass through the radiator so fast that it wont' cool.

I'm also of the opoinion that those who design these things are allot smarter than I am and it's usually a bad idea to change things. Of course, sometimes it's a good idea. hahaha

Temps are in the high 90's to a hundred degrees with very high humidity. Metal is too hot to touch most of the afternoon. Without a thermostat, I don't think it will be an issue of the hydraulic oil getting up to 120 degrees. This is where the thermostat opens and what is required for the pumps to work properly.

I haven't found what the high temp is, but my thermometer read 180 at the radiator with the engine running and the warning light on.

Thanks,
Eddie