Bird
Rest in Peace
Congratulations, Eddie! This has been an interesting and informative thread. You did a great job.
Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
- Thread starter EddieWalker
- Start date
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Bird
Rest in Peace
Congratulations, Eddie! This has been an interesting and informative thread. You did a great job.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Eddie:
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Eddie:
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
whitetiger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 371
- Location
- Kansas City, Kansas
- Tractor
- BX2370 Kubota, Ford 1100, MF135
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Rob,
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
whitetiger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 371
- Location
- Kansas City, Kansas
- Tractor
- BX2370 Kubota, Ford 1100, MF135
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Rob,
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Great Job, Eddie !!
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Great Job, Eddie !!
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie