weld fill in for re-drill

[Capricious]

This was nothing critical. It just bothered me that it did not match the other side on the tractor bucket area. It was purely cosmetic and I have a peculiarity that if I do something wrong, I should pay for it by punishing myself with the hard way and do it right. I stupidly grabbed a bit that I thought was the same size as the other hole I drilled 2 days before. As it was going through about an inch of metal, it was time costuming to stand there with a 3/8" hand drill and I have a "patience" issue. When I went to tap the hole, the tap was just swimming in there. Could I have drilled another hole? Yes. . Was I carried away and angry with myself for being a dolt? Yes I was. I needed a fix that made the first mistake disappear. As I do not have a mig, it seems that the 6013 appears to be a suitable rod. Thanks to all for the tips. As it is an inch deep, I'll probably weld it in from both sides. I'll make the hole larger, torch it up tomorrow, stick the 6013 in there and close it up. Then I'll grind it down, punch it, then re drill.

Geez, I NEVER punish myself like that.




That's my wife's job....

 

[arrow]

Geez, I NEVER punish myself like that.




That's my wife's job....

I get to myself before she can. Sometimes I have to go on the roof or climb a tree and get stuck. Looking to achieve the same sympathy as the cat.

 

[oldtimer 66]

One of the repair operations had to deal with .75-10 tapped holes that had over sized threads. If you re weld the hole as is you are into that transition area with both parent matl. and weld matl. and the threads would generally be NG again after the rework. We then would drill OS to 1.0" re weld re drill and tap with much better results. There is nothing wrong with tapping weld material it just needs to be a clean uniform deposit. Later

 

[bigdeano]

A Keensert would fix your problem. They're threaded inside and outside. You screw it in and hammer the keys in to lock it in place. You could do the same thing with a piece of a bolt drilled and tapped inside, then Locktite it in place.

 

[arrow]

One of the repair operations had to deal with .75-10 tapped holes that had over sized threads. If you re weld the hole as is you are into that transition area with both parent matl. and weld matl. and the threads would generally be NG again after the rework. We then would drill OS to 1.0" re weld re drill and tap with much better results. There is nothing wrong with tapping weld material it just needs to be a clean uniform deposit. Later

Thanks OT. Several sentiments here about re-drilling oversize prior to fill.

 

[arrow]

A Keensert would fix your problem. They're threaded inside and outside. You screw it in and hammer the keys in to lock it in place. You could do the same thing with a piece of a bolt drilled and tapped inside, then Locktite it in place.

Thanks bd. I'll look it up. Never drilled a bolt but to get an Easy Out in there.

Lots of good info coming from my original question.

 

[dragoneggs]

A Keensert would fix your problem. They're threaded inside and outside. You screw it in and hammer the keys in to lock it in place. You could do the same thing with a piece of a bolt drilled and tapped inside, then Locktite it in place.

Our company uses heli-coils as standard design on some parts. I second what dean says about using a Keensert if your hole isn't already too big. Will save you the mucking around with a weld potentially making the problem worse.

 

[rankrank1]

I do lots of oblonged or wallowed out hole repairs on old junk equipment that needs low cost repairs (probably use my welders the most for this). 6013 is by far the easiest common stick rod to reshape with a handheld burr tool in a handheld die grinder - or to redrill with a common high speed steel drill bit.

I would not hesitate to tap it for threads either. 6013 is as close to working with plain ole virgin mild steel that I have found. A real benefit when working with low tech hand tools. Lots of people bash 6013 but I love it for any repair that I will be dressing to desired shape with common hand tools.

Good news is that even the cheapest of the cheap AC only welding power sources will run 6013 rods very well.

 

[doxford jim]

Yep, I have used 6013 a lot for filling in and repair jobs that don't need a lot of penetration - that you would get with 7018 etc. For most applications it works very well.

 

[Patrickdozer]

I have used 6013 and 7014. I like the 7014 because it cleans up easy and is faster if you need to do a lot of filling. But some cases needed 7018 due to quality or composition of steel which would cause cracking or lifting of weld.

 

[thirdroc17]

Interesting read, and the vast majority of the answers are of no use for my last "mistake". Course, I had a slightly different "problem".

Non critical hole, not threaded. 1" diameter hole. That I manged to miscalculate and drill wrong by 3/4" of an inch. I do not have a wire welder. I do not have a mill. Being on a tight budget, I don't have most of the tools so many seem to take for granted.

So I just welded it shut with the rod I had, which happened to be 6013, apparently LUCKY ME, grind, punch and drill again. It came out close enough for the application.

The one thing I could have done, and would have if I'd known, I would have heated up the area before welding to reduce the cooling/hardening effect. :thumbsup:

 

[dragoneggs]

Interesting read, and the vast majority of the answers are of no use for my last "mistake". Course, I had a slightly different "problem".

Non critical hole, not threaded. 1" diameter hole. That I manged to miscalculate and drill wrong by 3/4" of an inch. I do not have a wire welder. I do not have a mill. Being on a tight budget, I don't have most of the tools so many seem to take for granted.

So I just welded it shut with the rod I had, which happened to be 6013, apparently LUCKY ME, grind, punch and drill again. It came out close enough for the application.

The one thing I could have done, and would have if I'd known, I would have heated up the area before welding to reduce the cooling/hardening effect. :thumbsup:

Good on ya!

 

[City Farmer]

If you really want to punish yourself, tap it bigger. Bottom out a piece of threaded rod (soft screw) in the tapped hole, weld flush and grind flat. Then, drill and retap for the needed size. After all that you'll have punished yourself enough to never make that mistake again. Then, you will have properly repaired the "mistake" and be able to get some sleep.

 

[arrow]

If you really want to punish yourself, tap it bigger. Bottom out a piece of threaded rod (soft screw) in the tapped hole, weld flush and grind flat. Then, drill and retap for the needed size. After all that you'll have punished yourself enough to never make that mistake again. Then, you will have properly repaired the "mistake" and be able to get some sleep.

I like your way of thinking CF. In the middle ages, you would have been the guy whose job it was to invent new ways of torturing people.

 

[Capricious]

I would just stick a bigger bolt in the one side and be done with it...

 

[City Farmer]

I like your way of thinking CF. In the middle ages, you would have been the guy whose job it was to invent new ways of torturing people.

Unfortunately, I've plugged 100's of holes this way in my line of work.

 

[arrow]

I would just stick a bigger bolt in the one side and be done with it...

What! and have one side not match the other! Dastardly I tell ya, just plain dastardly. (never mind me Cap .I'm just sick in the head this way).

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

What! and have one side not match the other! Dastardly I tell ya, just plain dastardly. (never mind me Cap .I'm just sick in the head this way).

So drill out the other smaller holes to match - then thread them all the same size.

 

[arrow]

So drill out the other smaller holes to match - then thread them all the same size.

I got them tapped just right as they exist. This is inch thick material so I'd just rather mess with the one brain fart hole.

 

[Sodo]

Well anyway now that the jobs all done?.there are still some details of this project that are interesting to me.

The one thing I could have done, and would have if I'd known, I would have heated up the area before welding to reduce the cooling/hardening effect. :thumbsup:

There are internal stresses that will be created, and thus lessened by heating the a larger area. Also I think it would weld better. Are you thinking of the internal stresses? In any case, unless this area is highly stressed (or flexed in usage) internal stresses won't matter.

And it's my understanding that mild steel is not capable of hardening or annealing either (just by heat) but I could be wrong. If it was a heat-treated (or heat-treatable) material it would be no fun drilling that wrong hole.

Does anybody have knowledge to share on this?