Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
lotsa humidity here. thus we get rust on surfaces.. unlike salt rust wich happens from the ground up..
soundguy
Plus any paint with a good view factor with the sun disappears after 10 or 15 years.
lotsa humidity here. thus we get rust on surfaces.. unlike salt rust wich happens from the ground up..
soundguy
Hermit,
In in an inverter, the power is "sliced" and "diced" electronically and though not all units have it, they can be made more easily to handle CC and CV. Transformers can be made to do both, but most pickup trucks don't have that much gvw to take one home.
I use a Hobart LX AC/DC stick welder with good results.
My rods are 1/8" 7014, 7018 and 7024 all on DC+.
The 7014 and 7024 are drag rods, particularly easy to use if you follow the recommended amp settings, use forward-reverse rod motion, and take your time running the bead. IMO the biggest problem learning stick welding is learning to slow down while running the bead so you get good tie-in at the edges of the puddle. Watch the puddle, not the arc.
Well,
Yes to both. You have to hook the stick torch up and flip the switch from "MIG" to "Stick".
Their ac/dc 220 stick is comparable price to the 140 handler in 110. Seems the stick could be the better value and versatility of the too?
Thanks, Shawn
I have both, the mig 135 Handler (earlier version) and ac/dc 220 stick.
Because I'm usualy welding heavier steel the little mig is hardly ever used, I only got it for a job I thought I needed it for. I could easily live with out it.
I could not live with out the stick.
If you don't go the route of the modern all in one machine, then IMO ---
stick to the stick![]()
JB.
I have both, the mig 135 Handler (earlier version) and ac/dc 220 stick.
Because I'm usualy welding heavier steel the little mig is hardly ever used, I only got it for a job I thought I needed it for. I could easily live with out it.
I could not live with out the stick.
If you don't go the route of the modern all in one machine, then IMO ---
stick to the stick![]()
JB.