Welding a cast iron tool (Roper-Whitney XX punch)

[Sodo]

I use silicon bronze filler and a TIG with good success on cast iron.

I would have bushed and bored it myself though.

It's just a hand tool but develops a lot of force. Go get a paper hole punch and try poking a hole in steel and you will understand there is a lot more force generated than you might think.

Boy I'm surprised how many have wrote they would bush/bored it, you fellas have some wicked shops! Not only do you have the the bush, but a M20x1.5 tap on hand too? Not me I have an angle grinder, a MIG and a torch.

As I wrote before if this can't be done in an hour of shop time (and quite a bit more hours devoted to discussion and learning) then I'll discard this (free) tool. Seems like the punch & dies are worth keeping in the toybox though.

Roper-Whitney rates their No. xx as "1.2 ton". They show 1.2 ton needed for 1/4" hole in 16ga, for example. Even so I highly doubt that 2400lbs can break a good braze weld.

 

[jwmorris]

Boy I'm surprised how many have wrote they would bush/bored it, you fellas have some wicked shops! Not only do you have the the bush, but a M20x1.5 tap on hand too? Not me I have an angle grinder, a MIG and a torch.

As I wrote before if this can't be done in an hour of shop time (and quite a bit more hours devoted to discussion and learning) then I'll discard this (free) tool. Seems like the punch & dies are worth keeping in the toybox though.

Roper-Whitney rates their No. xx as "1.2 ton". They show 1.2 ton needed for 1/4" hole in 16ga, for example. Even so I highly doubt that 2400lbs can break a good braze weld.

No one said you have to bore and thread a bushing for the die. Not that it would be impossible but it would be less work to bush and bore for the punch itself, not the die. Not to mention there is more "meat" at the top where the punch rides vs the bottom threaded portion where the dies go.

You are right though without the machine equipment, things change. Kind of like, if the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem is a nail.

 

[Sodo]

No one said you have to bore and thread a bushing for the die. Not that it would be impossible but it would be less work to bush and bore for the punch itself, not the die.

OK this is the first time I've comprehended that you guys are recommending moving the upper bore (where the punch slides). If I had a wicked shop with the proper reamer that may have occurred to me. Actually filling with brass & rebore to original bore size is feasible and I like a brass bushed hole as much as any other fella.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem is a nail.

,,,,, or a fail

 

[Sodo]

Ok got it all done.

Used a propane roofing torch to preheat. The brazing went well except all I had was a cutting torch, which boils the brass on the surface quickly. It's not ideal.

I can't imagine this ever breaking. Nice to have the kit back together and functional.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Ok got it all done.

Used a propane roofing torch to preheat. The brazing went well except all I had was a cutting torch, which boils the brass on the surface quickly. It's not ideal.

I can't imagine this ever breaking. Nice to have the kit back together and functional.

Nice job of making do with what you've got.

Have you tried it out on anything yet?

FWIW, Rustoleum makes a line of hammer finish spray paints that are perfect for covering up irregularities in welds. There's a light blue metallic one that's perfect for old timey tools like that punch...

 

[Big Barn]

Nice job!!!!

Terry

 

[muddstopper]

I guess this means your not going to be shipping it to me

 

[Sodo]

Brutha, if you were in my shop a month ago, and saw that tool and said "give me that tool I can fix it" you'd have it.

But once I realized how easy it was to repair, ,,,,, then you'd have to pry it from my fingers. :laughing:

 

[Mace Canute]

That ended up being a very nice job and you gained a little bit of experience doing it...so a double win! :thumbsup:

 

[Arc weld]

The proof will be how it works.