Welding a tie rod

[gwdixon]

Just trying to help.

And help you did - thanks again.

This is yet another example of why TBN is such a productive and useful resource.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would bet that the part is cast steel as I dont think cast iron would hold up to well in that application. It looks like replacement will cost some big bucks as it appears that the entire hub will need to be replaced. I would V bevel it top and bottom, weld a pass from each side using 3/32" E 7018 electrodes. Pre-heat it to 250F and then weld a pass from each side with continuous welding, dont stop and let it cool and the start again as this will just induce more hardness and stress into the weld each time you cool it off. You could peen it a pit when removing the slag with the pointed end of the chipping hammer or use a needle scaler. The welding I dont think will be a problem, but getting full pen or partial pen weld without messing up the taper bore is going to be impossible so plan to have the hole re-bored. Check with a machine shop to see if they can do it. If so, it might be easier to just weld the hole up solid and then taper bore it for a perfect fit. It will be impossible to keep it perfectly square so the taper bolt fits back in without stressing the connection. By welding up the hole along with the broken area, you will have a stronger connection. I am afraid that means disassembling the whole front axle housing but you would have to do that anyway for replacement. After I got it all welded up, I would let it set for a day to make sure you dont have and delayed stress cracking. If it doesnt crack then it will be good to go to the shop for machining.
Just curious, how did you manage to break that tie rod connection?

 

[Shield Arc]

Just curious, how did you manage to break that tie rod connection?

If I remember correctly, Kubota places the steering cylinder and tie rods in front of the axle, makes it so easy to run into things! One of the reasons I didn't buy a Kubota, that and the pedal configuration for the hydrostatic tractors.

 

[gwdixon]

Just curious, how did you manage to break that tie rod connection?

The L3650 was mine for about 20 years or so. Sold it to a neighbor (inexperienced tractor owner) and he burned up the clutch as well as breaking the tie rod mount as shown. When I asked him what happened he said that the involved wheel sunk in next to a stump and he was cranking the steering wheel back and forth to get the wheel loose. Oh, well.

Shield Arc is correct. The tie rods are forward of the axle housing and just sitting out there waiting for a hit.

 

[Shield Arc]

If it is in deed cast steel, I've had amazing luck welding cast steel pile driving equipment with just 7018, also used 312 stainless steel, and Super Missile Weld, (same thing as 312 stainless steel just cost a lot more) Little pre-heat, and very slow cool down.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Might be good "experience" for the new owner to fork over the money to replace the axle housing as a reminder to not be so stupid next time.

 

[Soundguy]

i agree.. if it is cast steel.. it 'should'
weld ok. I've welded both cast steel and iron on old tractors. as has been said.. CI just takes more time and process is different a bit.

if it costs an arm and a leg.. then I'd try to fix it aft disassembly and cleaning. if it's cheap.. I'd repalce it.

good luck

 

[Baby Grand]

Gary is right - you'll have to remachine that tapered bore after welding because it will distort from the heat. Even if you do, that taper is going to exert a "hoop stress" right at the welds when you reassemble everything, plus it's in an area or reduced cross section. Even if you do a faultless welding job, I'd give it high odds of failing, again, near the weld - where the heat affected zone transitions into the base metal. Another way to approach it would be to find something in a scrap yard with a similar tie rod end geometry. Cut that piece off, away from the tapered bore and weld that onto the housing after cutting the housing down to fit. Then the weld won't be right in the highly loaded area of the lever. You'll still have to do a major disassembly, but that's in the cards anyway. Just my $.02.

 

[cowski]

old ih and whites had tie rods in the front.it gets aggravating when you hit trees.you have had several good recommendations on welding cast steel from gary fowler and kecender .certanium rods are excellent ,i use and highly recommend them.i do not think i would braze it.in this case i would weld it on the tractor with 7018 ,when you v the crack out leave the last 1/8 or so undisturbed.clamp it then tack it good.weld one pass on each side then peen it, let it cool. then repeat until filled. the tie rod end should still fit the hole and the seals should not be melted out.a washer could be welded to the bottom for support.good luck

 

[ruffdog]

Once you get the part off the tractor, have your machinist look at the part BEFORE it is welded (with both pieces)so he can make a drawing of hole location, hole angle, taper angle, taper depth, ect. That way he doesn't have to start from scratch..... He might have to order the correct taper reamer.