Welding a tie rod

[Soundguy]

all this talk of machinist.. ordering a remaer.. etc.. etc.. weld repair.

soundign like a 'replace' or fix at home job is way cheaper.. just sayin.

i got lots of welded on old iron. sometimes ya gets lucky.. sometimes ya don't

 

[Gary Fowler]

Most folks at thier home shop dont have the availability of taper boring a hole which is why the machine shop issue. IF one could find the correct size taper reamer to ream the hole after welding, then it could be a home repair it you have some way to set up the piece perfectly vertical in your drill press. The tie rod end has to fit snuggly into the hole other wise it will just wallow it out. Welding it regardless of how much care you put into the process is going to warp it some. Might not be a lot and perhaps you get lucky and it looks straight but the fit is not going to be perfect like it would be if drilled and reamed. Imperfect fit will cause tire wobble and might contribute to premature failure of the repair.

 

[Zackaryman]

What is the cost of a second hand one off a wrecked tractor.

 

[Zork]

IMHO- If you cant find a replacement you could make the repair by weld and drill a straight hole and go with a bolt through-stud tie rod end which would have to be welded to the old tie rod threaded shank if it cant be matched. Something similar to this:

Female Rod End 25mm PHS25 Right hand Ball Bearings

 

[Soundguy]

Most folks at thier home shop dont have the availability of taper boring a hole which is why the machine shop issue. IF one could find the correct size taper reamer to ream the hole after welding, then it could be a home repair it you have some way to set up the piece perfectly vertical in your drill press. The tie rod end has to fit snuggly into the hole other wise it will just wallow it out. Welding it regardless of how much care you put into the process is going to warp it some. Might not be a lot and perhaps you get lucky and it looks straight but the fit is not going to be perfect like it would be if drilled and reamed. Imperfect fit will cause tire wobble and might contribute to premature failure of the repair.

i've rebuit aty least a few.. welded a few too. it's not as hard a job as is bing professed to get that pin to stay in that hole without moving. there are plenty of honing tricks a DIY'er can do to get a tight fit. conical stone , hone or off the shelf connical mill / reamer that you can get for 54 a pop at fastenall.. etc.is one of those.. welding with a jig pin is another. i've actually resized a couple sector arms that way, using the oem shaft as a mandril took a few miutes of work.. but worked perfectly.

if this were ahighway vehicle.. i'd say never mind. but for a tractor? go for it. the worst case is it's STILL broke.

if you never try.. you never learn. and justbecuase it don't work one time or another.. doesn't mean you don't learn soemthing from the attempt.

it's broke... it can't get any worse.

see what you can do.. or find a salvage one... etc..

if no one ever ventured out and tried anything new.. we'd all still be running around chasing mastadons with pointed sticks, and waiting for lightening to hit a tree so we could have fire.

 

[crazyal]

Just curious why people think that having the tie rod in front of the axle vs behind it would have made a difference? It's been stated that the operator broke it because the wheel was stuck in a hole next to a stump and they exerted too much force trying to steer.

 

[Soundguy]

i've seen both setups

 

[Gary Fowler]

Just curious why people think that having the tie rod in front of the axle vs behind it would have made a difference? It's been stated that the operator broke it because the wheel was stuck in a hole next to a stump and they exerted too much force trying to steer.

For the OP problem, not much difference UNLESS, he had weakened it or maybe it was partially broken from riding over trees or hitting some obstacle. With the tie rods in front of the axle, they bear all the force of impact if you run over something whereas if they are in the rear, they are protected by the front axle.

 

[gwdixon]

Just curious why people think that having the tie rod in front of the axle vs behind it would have made a difference? It's been stated that the operator broke it because the wheel was stuck in a hole next to a stump and they exerted too much force trying to steer.

I think it is that the tractor is more likely to hit objects traveling forward. Things like rocks, stumps, logs, even large branches.

An axle is heavier duty and stronger than tie rods and their attachment points. Damage would be more likely to occur on a tie rod rather than an axle. The M7040 has metal guards, functioning similar to skid plates, that cover the tie rods so Kubota must have recognized the need.

Think of the old VW bus (if you are that old). With the driver sitting out front it was a death trap in a head on collision. Even a front mounted tire didn't help.

Then there is the Mad Max movie with the bodies mounted on front of the vehicle. OK, that's enough. Seriously digressing.

(Edit: Darn! Gary beat me to the reply. Sorry it is similar. Well, maybe great minds, all Garys, think alike.)