Welding broken loader bucket cutting edge

   / Welding broken loader bucket cutting edge
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks Glyford for the info on preheating and alternatives. Iエll be using one or some combination of the options for sure. Thanks for the stick advice, K0ua and bigdeano. Iエll probably use some of the stainless rod 'cuz it's the "better" alternative available around here. Kinda like having two types of band-aids:

- Put the band-aid on it!

- The band-aid won't work!

- Put the other band-aid on it!

Cast iron pieces get welded with the stainless around here and we rebuilt the notches on the "neck?" of a torque converter too with it too. Tried welding to cast Iron tractor pieces, frying pans and wood stoves with 6013 and it plain doesn't work. And, one time I welded a leaf spring for my car back together with 6013 while my car mechanic was laughing at me and I got about 100 meters before it broke in two again. So, through all this, there's "when there's a better option", and "when it just plain won't work", like gluing concrete with elmer's. of note, I think it was the heat affected zone next to the weld on the leaf spring that actually broke, but who cares, still had to buy a new previously-owned one.

It may sound like I'm a bonehead that asks for advice and doesn't take it. ...and I am a bonehead. But, I do take the advice and compile it with all the other advice as well as available options and experience and figure out what we're actually going to do from there. I've learned a lot from this forum, lurked around for a long time before I started posting and asking questions. So... thanks!

Sebastian
 
   / Welding broken loader bucket cutting edge #12  
I'd use grade 8 bolts,(six lines on head) to bolt it on, that's the strongest bolts made. you won't want to weld that on.. also, the cutting edge can be rebuilt with hardface rods, but remove the edge from the bucket before you start welding it..
 
   / Welding broken loader bucket cutting edge #13  
It's always best to do it right, ( New grade 5 or 8 Bolts ) But as long as you don't mind cutting the old edge off at some point, Go ahead and weld it on. 7018, 8018 or 312 SS. Just know it will take a whole lot of gouging with oxy-fuel, plasma or cutoff's to get the cut edge back off one day.
Good Luck though. it would be fun to weld it on to someone else's bucket.:)
 
   / Welding broken loader bucket cutting edge
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Hola! Just an update, welded the whole thing on, did the crack with stainless 316 I think it is, and just welded it onto the bucket with 6013.

Starting to understand the limitations of 6013 with hardened steels, it doesn't cook hot enough to really get a good penetration, an is prone to just flaking off like it didn't stick. Didn't like the stainless, its more poorly behaved, cooks way hotter and my little welder with long extension cords wasn't really doing it. But the things on there and I've done two jobs without it falling off.

If I ever want to take it off it'll be a pain but more likely it'll fall off of it's own accord. Just hope it's not in a bunch of pieces. Also found some thicker bolts, somewhat hardened, I'll replace them when I have a chance.

Thanks again everyone for all the advice and ideas
 

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