welding chain links on bucket and loader arms

[Henro]

And here is a picture of the type of toothbar I was referring to. I think it is made by a company named H&H... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ... I should know because it's mine... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[JerryG]

If you want the capability to change the type of hook or rings for chain and/or rope, put on a receiver or two. That way you can change them with just a pin.

 

[KennyV]

I’m also for welding hooks… but you could try anything , like Deerlope said, if it isn’t working the way you expected, cut it off, a little grinding and paint… start over.

I would never weld anything to my loader arms. KennyV.

 

[stevef]

I thought I'd get a response from the welding the hooks or chains to the loader arms statement. Why would you not weld to the arms, fear of weakening the metal or useability? My reasoning for considering this is I will have two buckets one is the heavy duty 84" and the other is a BTR Grapple rake and that way at least one set of lift chains would always be on the machine. But also if I was really in a serious jam and needed every possible ounce of lift ability I could drop the bucket and just use the loader arms. The receiver tube on the top looks like the smartest idea but when I asked my dealer about doing this he said I'd still be only able to use chain or rope hooks in the receivers because a ball would be to high to use for most bumper pull trailers (the bucket is bigger in both dimensions and it sits up pretty high) and in order to use the receivers you'd have to fully extend the cylinders (full dump position) which is a loaders weakest point so you'd likely do damage to the cylinders or loader arms if you were picking up or moving anything very heavy.

 

[Syncro]

If it were me I'd be a little wary of welding anything to the loader arms, not only for fear of weaking them, but also its possible to twist a loader frame by lifting on only one side. I've done it so I know it can happen. I've also welded chain to the upper lip of a loader bucket with success, but only on heavy loaders where strength was not an issue. The down side of course is the chain slapping around. On my little MF1240 I drilled the backside of the bucket, low and center, for the most leverage, and attached a clevis through a 1/4" plate. That may be the way to go. I also have hooks on each side of the bucket, but the center clevis I attached allows me to lift loader capacity from one point without fear of twisting the loader frame, plus its removable.

 

[stevef]

Thanks Sychro
It never occured to me that although I'd gain lift capacity without a bucket that I then would be lifting with a single arm I can definitely see where that could twist a arm. If I used your idea for attaching to the back of the bucket do you think your setup could lift 3 or 4 thousand pounds without folding the bucket up like a fortune cookie.

 

[Syncro]

Thats a nice powerfull tractor, but its still an ag setup and not a commercial machine. I'd be careful on how I did this, but I do think with a little thought it could be done. I'm attaching a pic that shows where I bolted the plate on my light duty bucket, notice its low and near the bottom bend. That puts the stress near a "V" and also directs the up lift force in the same plane as the large back plate of the bucket, very strong place. In your case I would use a heavier and longer backing plate, I'd guess 3/8" x 4" wide and extend it the length of the bucket, right to the lower arm brackets, like mine only with a longer, wider backing plate. I like to use bolts for something like this, and I'd say eight 1/2" #8 hard bolts would do, spaced in pairs. By using a center grab point, the load will transfer to the bottom pin on each side of the lift arms, ignoring the roll back cylinders completely. Gotta be carefull though if you lift anything bulky this way because there won't be much room between what you're lifting and the tractor front grill, any swinging of the load will hit the tractor.

 

[stevef]

Syncro
Do you have a backup plate inside the bucket as well or just on the outside

 

[Syncro]

<font color="blue">" Do you have a backup plate inside the bucket as well or just on the outside "
</font>
<font color="black"> Outside only. The small clevis and hook I made easily carries the 1000 Lb loader capacity of my small tractor, I think you'll be OK if your loader has a flat mounting surface and you use heavier stock and a heavier clevis. </font>

 

[JRP]

stevef:

The top edge of most loaders need some reinforcement for hooks. Consider welding a 3 x 3 x 3/8 piece of angle along the entire top of your bucket, then add three 3/8 hooks. It needs only six welds about 3" long each. Paint the entire top and bottom of angle, grind paint off at the weld locations, weld, then touch up paint.

Consider using three 3/8" hooks. One center, and others at each end, 6" from end.

Consider using 5/16 grade 70 chain. You probably won't break it with an M9000. I can't break 1/4" GR70 with my M6800. Smaller chain thet is GR70 is usually stronger than the next size larger GR43, and is much easier to handle. 1/4" GR70 is my favorite chain and wll fit in the 3/8 hooks.

Consider that if you use 1/2" chain instead of hooks you will always have to use some very expensive and heavy chain. Can you put 1/4" chain hooks onto 1/2" chain?

The hooks on the loader frame are good. Been there, no regrets. My two FEL frame hooks attach to a square tube that is part of the bobtach type FEL quick tatch. No fear of twisting the frame, just use two pieces of chain and lift at both hooks. This also makes the load more stable. Keep in mind that the bucket edge pushes the load outward, away from the tractor. When you pick yup eith the frame mounted hooks your load will be closer to your grill gurad and could end up on your hood.

Add some chain boxes like these. (photo) Chain is always at my fingertips as I get off the tractor.

You will love your M9000. My M6800 has been tops.