Welding gloves

   / Welding gloves #31  
This is an interesting thread... in that I need to figure something out for gloves.

I am extremely careful about my hands. It comes with the territory of being a surgeon I guess. I wear gloves constantly, when I am working and have many different styles for different uses. But I rarely am without gloves while I am working. For regular work, I typically buy the $10 HF soft leather gloves with velcro straps. I like tight fitting gloves, especially since I wear them constantly and want good dexterity. And when I invariably wear out the tip of my right index and middle finger, I don't mind tossing them in the trash and getting a new pair. I DO mind tossing the $35 Mechanix gloves though... hence the HF.

Yesterday, was my 2nd 'welding class', and I had been given a crappy pair of stiff and shrunken gloves to work with the time before. So gloves were on my mind. I had gone into their store area, and they had a ton of variations, and out of them, I thought a couple pair might work. But, the store was 'closed' so although I could look at things, I couldn't actually purchase any. I asked my instructor about it, and he was like many of you, saying 'anything will work'. But when I asked him what HE used... he said he uses 100% cotton 'hot mill' gloves. I was shocked, because I had simply assumed you 'HAD' to wear heavy, awkward, leather gloves. That's all I'd ever seen used in my '''huge''' experience. He gave me a pair, and I loved them.

I did have one issue, however. After I was through, running about 100 6" beads, I noticed that the back of my off hand was always hot. When I removed the glove, I saw that I had a very mild burn on the back of my left hand, with a normal space, where a double seam had prevented direct heat. This morning, I have a couple small blisters.

So, I began looking for gloves and alternatives, thinking those gloves would work great if I had a shield on that glove.

I see a few thoughts about shields, and I don't think that having a big 'metal plate' strapped to my hand will be useful for my meager abilities. But, if you were going to use a shield, what alternatives are there and what are your thoughts about how to fasten it? I know BS has gloves with special snaps to remove the shield.

What are the good and bad about a heat shield?
 
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   / Welding gloves #32  
This is an interesting thread... in that I need to figure something out for gloves.

I am extremely careful about my hands. It comes with the territory of being a surgeon I guess. I wear gloves constantly, when I am working and have many different styles for different uses. But I rarely am without gloves while I am working. For regular work, I typically buy the $10 HF soft leather gloves with velcro straps. I like tight fitting gloves, especially since I wear them constantly and want good dexterity. And when I invariably wear out the tip of my right index and middle finger, I don't mind tossing them in the trash and getting a new pair. I DO mind tossing the $35 Mechanix gloves though... hence the HF.

Yesterday, was my 2nd 'welding class', and I had been given a crappy pair of stiff and shrunken gloves to work with the time before. So gloves were on my mind. I had gone into their store area, and they had a ton of variations, and out of them, I thought a couple pair might work. But, the store was 'closed' so although I could look at things, I couldn't actually purchase any. I asked my instructor about it, and he was like many of you, saying 'anything will work'. But when I asked him what HE used... he said he uses 100% cotton 'hot mill' gloves. I was shocked, because I had simply assumed you 'HAD' to wear heavy, awkward, leather gloves. That's all I'd ever seen used in my '''huge''' experience. He gave me a pair, and I loved them.

I did have one issue, however. After I was through, running about 100 6" beads, I noticed that the back of my off hand was always hot. When I removed the glove, I saw that I had a very mild burn on the back of my left hand, with a normal space, where a double seam had prevented direct heat. This morning, I have a couple small blisters.

So, I began looking for gloves and alternatives, thinking those gloves would work great if I had a shield on that glove.

I see a few thoughts about shields, and I don't think that having a big 'metal plate' strapped to my hand will be useful for my meager abilities. But, if you were going to use a shield, what alternatives are there and what are your thoughts about how to fasten it? I know BS has gloves with special snaps to remove the shield.

What are the good and bad about a heat shield?

They make flexible 3x5 foil backed, heat resistant shields for gloves or arm hot spots.

I usually just buy a pair of premium leather welding gloves that are very soft, but with high gauntlet cuff. you can buy a leather glove as soft as you want, good fitting and easy to work in, with plenty of heat protection.. but they cost $. I have a pair of very very supple 'past the elbow' gloves' that are wonderfull when I need more arm protection than my jacket gives me.. but they were 85$
 
   / Welding gloves #33  
They make flexible 3x5 foil backed, heat resistant shields for gloves or arm hot spots.

I usually just buy a pair of premium leather welding gloves that are very soft, but with high gauntlet cuff. you can buy a leather glove as soft as you want, good fitting and easy to work in, with plenty of heat protection.. but they cost $. I have a pair of very very supple 'past the elbow' gloves' that are wonderfull when I need more arm protection than my jacket gives me.. but they were 85$

Sounds like he is talking about what in the trade are TIG gloves. They are very supple and tight fitting leather. I use them when a gauntlet type glove is needed. I knew welders that used nothing but cotton gloves. For general work including welding I use soft style drivers gloves. They cost less than so called welding gloves and can be used for fitting and grinding. All welders gloves except TIG are very heavy and cumbersome

Ron
Ron
 
   / Welding gloves #34  
When I welded for a living, I always bought Tillman gloves in either soft deerskin or pigskin. Tillman also made a good thin leather TIG welding glove with a short cuff. They were expensive (haven't priced them in several decades) but dollar for dollar they would outlast the cheaper ones. The welding gloves had very good insulation on the back side to prevent blistering your hands and the sewing thread was protected from burnout.
 
   / Welding gloves #38  
I was simply holding/guiding my trigger hand. But it was 'closer' to the arc. I am sure I don't have very good overall basic skill. My 'educator' is knowledgeable, but I think he is more of the 'get at it' kind of teacher. He answer's questions, and walks around every now and then, critiquing the weld. But I am afraid I might be 'learning' mistakes in technique simply because I have no real clue what I am doing. As far as I can remember, he's never watched me lay a bead.

I was welding 'spray arc' within 5min of snapping on a jacket. Might not have been even that long. He just said "give yourself about 5/8" stickout. Hold at 90d X and 15d Y and try to keep your travel speed consistent. Put about 5 beads on each of these plates then let them cool, then flip them over and do it again on the other side." He answers questions if I ask them and he can answer the technical as well as the skill types well. He just is a quiet guy. I'd like a bit more direction and immediate feedback. I would progress much faster.

This is my 2nd 2hrs work. Spray arc groove plates butt joint. First weld of the day is top. Last is bottom. I know there is porosity, especially at the initial part of the weld, but I don't know what to do about it. He said I might have the stickout too long. But, I don't know. I shortened it up, and didn't seem to get a better initial arc.

(Hmmm... I think the site is flipping the pic for some reason. Direction of travel is right to left.)

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