Welding Rod Recommendation

[metalbender]

Not a fan of 6011, too much spatter to clean up. On a quick, dirty job, doesn't matter much. Once going to a DC welder, the 7018 wins by a long shot.

 

[LD1]

Although I like 7018, It's a hassle to care for it once opened. I also like 6013 and 7024 but usually use specialty rods that i beg off the reps. Missell Weld, Super120, 88-83, MG500, Assorted Eutectic stuff. I can't seem to get the dang flux off of 6010 or 6011 without beating the crap out of it. That's where 70xx rods shine.

Used alot of supermissle and eutectic myself. Nobody ever talks about them much on the web. Not as common as 60xx and 70xx stuff. But they "claim" to be better. I was told once that they don't use them on structural job sites because AWS won't certify them. Something about the the rods composition is a closley guarded secret of the MFG's and don't want to formally publish all of that infor, therefore cannot be certified?? But don't know if that's true.

And yea, 60xx is generally a pain to get slag off. With the exception of 6013

But then again.....just about everything is a pain compared to 6013 and 7014

 

[searcyfarms]

ive welded farm equip all my life, made a few things from scratch, 7014 on a buzz box/AC is the only way to go - you can have your 6011 its junk and ive never had any issues with welding paint or rust with 7014. I just obtained a dc welder and will be learning on it now and going to try some 6010 5P + and 7018 excalibur as i have heard they run like butter on DC - will see but you can weld up anything you want with the 7014 in my book and get by just fine around the farm. Its so much easier to run, hold an arc and forgiving than 6011 much less easier to get the slag off too

 

[Big Barn]

I only had an AC buzz box all my years on the farm and I built and repaired everything with 6013. Partially because that’s all I knew.

Gary is right. Do your best to clean the area no matter what you do.

Now that I’m retired and have DC welders I use 7018 almost exclusively when I stick weld.

Rod oven for 7018. And yes, a lightbulb in an old bar fridge will keep them dry but it’s NOT the same thing.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I have never understood the 70k rods/60k Rods argument. For the work most of us do 10K in tensile strength is of no value either way. Strength of a weld is more related to technique than rod strength. A weld that does not meet full penetration of the two sections of the joint will fail regardless of the type rod used. Luckily for most of our jobs strength is not a big factor.

I look at the MIG welding used to put my implement together and am appalled that they even hold up. Penetration is very shallow but beads look great. Have taken a couple fabrications back to the dealer under warranty when the failed. Both failed welds were just laid on top with penetration shallow on only one side. Most factory fabrications only skip weld, never a full length weld. Seems to hold up fine. So, maybe appearance is all we need after-all.

Having grown up in pipefitting I am still a 6011 root pass and 7014 fill out guy. I have seen what some may call ugly looking top beads still pass bend and x-ray testing. Conversely perfect looking top beads fail on test due to poor penetration at the root weld. Schedule 40 pipe (approx 1/4") was always a 3 pass weld. SMAW welding is still an industry standard except shop fabrication. My Step son works the pipelines and all field work is SMAW. He is a coating inspector so he is not sure of the weld procedures.

Keep up the discussion, we can all use a few new nuggets on info now and then. Final word, "Do not get Hung up on Appearance When Strength is the Key. get the Root Pass Right First". Most of us hack welders do not get enough practice to make our cover passes look like the proverbial "dime wide dime high" inspection" criteria. My old certifications expired long ago.

Ron

 

[Gary Fowler]

Well, that is a good point. I use 7014 to fill holes in things. It is Extremely easy to start and run and makes pretty beads and fills holes better than anything. But for strength and ductility I will choose a 7018 every time. Even though on paper the 7014 is just as strong, I don't think testing bears that out.

Back in my real young years, I worked in a small shop fabricating wire pulling machines, the kind power companies use to pull overhead wires. The shop foreman loved 7014 and wanted everyone to use them. Once my brother-in-law (he also worked there) had just finished putting three passes on a 1" thick lug that was welded to some heavy tubing framing when the fitter said "oh no, wrong location, let me get a torch to cut that off". BIL said no worry and took a 4 pound shop hammer and with 3 licks sheared it off breaking the weld in half.
I always found 7014 to be very brittle and never liked using it even though it started/restarted easily and produced a very smooth and shiny weld. IIRC, the 7014 will also arc right thru the flux coating, so not so good for welding in a deep hole since the arc will start anywhere on the rod.

 

[searcyfarms]

i never tested strength, i just didnt like the characteristics when try to weld with 60 sticks vs 70 sticks, i had more issues with keeping them lit and starting/stopping, being a novice farmer hack welder i needed fixed and working, im sure if i spent more time with 60 stuff on an AC machine i would get better but i didnt need to since the 70s never gave me any issues and worked my meager skills. I dont remember anything ever breaking where i welded it but i did break things that needed rewelding and then over designed it on the 3rd time and was done with welding. I like over engineered bulky stuff, i dont need to be wasting time with stuff thats marginal.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Although I like 7018, It's a hassle to care for it once opened.

I have to agree that correct rod storage is a necessity for any iron powder electrode. The first thing I looked for after getting my shop built was an industrial grade welding machine. The second thing was an electric rod storage oven. I found a really good used 300 pound Phoenix brand rod oven which was more than I needed but the price was right. It was like new and a fab shop that was going out of business sold it cheap at $150. I keep it on all the time and temps set at 300F. Keeping the 7018 electrodes hot and dry makes them run so much better and prevents rust and moisture absorption which will cause porosity and under-bead cracking.
It really costs me nothing to run the oven since most months I just pay the minimum rate anyway. Phoenix makes 10# and 50# ovens also which might better suit small amount consumers. I like the 50# ovens over the 10# for storage since they have 4 sections that you can store different sizes and types of rods and keep them separated. 10# ovens are great if you only have one size of rod to store and only buy rods in small quantities. I buy the 50# hermetically sealed steel cans so the rods are fresh even years later and they are much cheaper per pound that way.

 

[searcyfarms]

i thot that is what easy bake ovens were for!!!!

they have been repurposed :laughing:

 

[searcyfarms]

how about one of those dehumidifier things you put in your safe for your guns, put one of those in a metal 5 gallon bucket wouldnt that work?