Welding vs Bolt on

meburdick · Jul 9, 2012

Shield Arc said:
Yes I should have specified powder coating. I have two PJ trailers, both powder coated. I'm totally convinced Ray Charles did the coating.:laughing:
Here is a bolted D-ring on my dump trailer.

He interned under Stevie Wonder before getting his license...

Your pic raises another question... I would expect, especially giving consideration to Baby Grand's comments on "process", that the bolt head should be against the D-Ring plate and not the nut end of the assembly. How much difference in bearing capability could this make?

Shield Arc · Jul 9, 2012

meburdick said:
How much difference in bearing capability could this make?

No difference at all in my opinion.
I placed the bolts inside the stake pocket, I figured it was easier than trying to thread the nut on the bolt, with the nut on the inside of the stake pocket. I used fender washers on the heads of the bolts, because the stake pocket material is really thin.

meburdick · Jul 9, 2012

I wouldn't expect a difference, either. But, Baby Grand made a point about reaming the hole (so it was smooth) and placing a smooth shank bolt instead of threads where it passes through the hole... So, I'm wondering how much load bearing ability one loses because of having threads that can come in contact with the edges of the bored hole.

Shield Arc · Jul 9, 2012

In certain application I can see where that is very important! I thought we were talking about bolting or welding D-rings, that were most likely made off shore. Now if we were using A-325 bolts on a high rise, OK then I understand.

meburdick · Jul 9, 2012

Agreed... Understanding the exact application, and the exact materials in use could change how "picky" one needs to be about the process. Generally, grade 8 bolts to attach D-Rings should give the desired result, I would think.

Shield Arc · Jul 9, 2012

meburdick said:
Generally, grade 8 bolts to attach D-Rings should give the desired result, I would think.

That is why I posted the bolt capacity chart.

LD1 · Jul 9, 2012

with two 1/2" gr8 bolts having a tensil capacity of ~45k lbs and a shear of 35k lbs and welds being just as strong (if done right) or stronger, Me thinks other things will bend/break before the attachment method of choice.

Baby Grand · Jul 10, 2012

LD1 said:
with two 1/2" gr8 bolts having a tensil capacity of ~45k lbs and a shear of 35k lbs and welds being just as strong (if done right) or stronger, Me thinks other things will bend/break before the attachment method of choice.

That was the point I was trying to make before I got all sidetracked on design - for the loads that an FEL would see, a bolted joint should be just fine.

Baby Grand · Jul 10, 2012

Shield Arc said:
No difference at all in my opinion.
I placed the bolts inside the stake pocket, I figured it was easier than trying to thread the nut on the bolt, with the nut on the inside of the stake pocket. I used fender washers on the heads of the bolts, because the stake pocket material is really thin.

Sounds right. Having them the other way around would help if it was loaded to the point that everything starts deforming and the flange starts prying the nut from one side, but that shouldn't ever be an issue in this application. In this case, which ever arrangement lets you torque the nut more carefully is probably best.

Baby Grand · Jul 10, 2012

Just one additional note:
The only reason that I bolted the hooks onto my FEL and didn't weld them on was that I didn't have any welding equipment at the time, couldn't move my tractor to someone who did, and didn't want to pay for a weldor to come here for such a trivial job.
-Jim