welding

[teach]

Before I start, let me say that I am aware of the multiple other threads on welding, of which I have poured over many of them. Unfortunately, while I did pick up some ideas, I am still perplexed. I am posting this new thread because I am jealous of all of the awesome creations that I see some of you weld up and I want to try my hand at it too. I have a limited budget, very limited, but I want to give welding a try. I have done a little welding with a stick welder and a small mig welder (no gas), and I don't have time to take a welding course, though this is great advice, but I am currently a full time student and work a VERY full time job. So now on to my questions. I am considering buying either a Lincoln 100 HD mig welder (without gas, $369.00 locally) or a basic Lincoln buzz box stick welder ($269.00). The 100 HD is $100 more than the stick welder. I know the stick welder has more capapbility in regards to heavy guage metal, but I like the portability and outlet capability of the 100 HD mig welder. Will the 100 HD be enough to weld the type of projects I see you guys welding (3 point hitch projects with angle, bucket hooks, chain holders, etc.) or should I just go with the stick welder?
Teach

 

[AlanB]

Tough call.

I would probably say go AC stick, put a dryer plug on it and almost anyone's garage and you are running.

 

[digger2]

From what you've said,i'd go with the stick machine too.As AlanB has said
you can run it off a dryer outlet,as long as you dont go hog wild with the amp setting.And you dont really even have to cut the plug off,just make yourself an short "adapter" cord to go from your welder plug to the dryer recepticle.I used to have a lincoln ac.Worked good,but i wanted to hook up a tig torch,so i sold it and went to a lincoln ac/dc.You have a wider coice of rods with the ac/dc machine,but its also more $$$.I also have a lincoln 110 volt 100 amp mig,works good.Bought that strictly for 1/8" and under,anything 3/16" and over i'll stick it.My personal opinion on using the 100 amp migs on 1/4" and over,i would'nt do it.Not enough amps(heat),to get real penetration.
Even with "V"ing the joint,with that low of amps,you never really know about your penetration.If i wanted to use a mig to weld 1/4" and over i would get
a machine rated at 200-250 amps. at minimum.Anyway ,with what you've said,i'd go with the ac
stick.It'll work fine.
digger2

 

[CATMAN]

I feel buying a welder is a "lifetime" purchase. If you chose stick welder, I suggest you purchase an AC/DC unit as a minimun.[I had to learn on Forney AC only(180 amp) and I stuck a lot of rods to the material] Stick DC will be easier to learn and weld vertically. Now, I personally love MIG(w/gas) welding. I will always try to weld inside so the shielding gas doesn't get blown away. Even on my Dad's farm equipment, we pull it inside the big machine shed, shut the doors and weld with the MIG before we would even consider welding outside with a stick welder. I mention this, because it makes a difference depending on the enviroment you have available to you to weld your projects. If you go with a MIG welder, I suggest getting the largest 110-120 volt unit (140 Amp) that has the capabilities to use both shielding gas and/or flux core wire. [Example: Hobart 140.] Start out with flux-core wire that the welder comes with, then later as money allows, you can "step up" to shielding gas bottle, regulator, and either .024" or .035" wire, if you desire with the same machine. I currently own Hobart Handler 120 (110 volt) with 024" wire in it using shielding gas and a Hobart Beta-Mig 250 (220 volt) with 035" wire in it using shielding gas also. To be honest, I use that little welder more than the big one because it is so handy and with the .024" wire in it, I can weld up thin metal fairly easily. I personally haven't tried .035" in a small welder, but I donated a new Hobart Handler 120 to my buddy's race team, and they use it with flux-core wire and they really like it. Farm equipment is going to need .035" wire, unless you are doing sheet metal. These are my experiences and opinions. Good Luck and once you get started, compare your welds to pictures on some manufacturors' welding sites to see if your speed, heat and technique is correct.

 

[digger2]

From what you've said,i'd go with the stick machine too.As AlanB has said
you can run it off a dryer outlet,as long as you dont go hog wild with the amp setting.And you dont really even have to cut the plug off,just make yourself an short "adapter" cord to go from your welder plug to the dryer recepticle.I used to have a lincoln ac.Worked good,but i wanted to hook up a tig torch,so i sold it and went to a lincoln ac/dc.You have a wider coice of rods with the ac/dc machine,but its also more $$$.I also have a lincoln 110 volt 100 amp mig,works good.Bought that strictly for 1/8" and under,anything 3/16" and over i'll stick it.My personal opinion on using the 110 migs on 1/4" and over,i would'nt do it.Not enough amps(heat),to get real penetration.
Even with "V"ing the joint,with that low of amps,you never really know about your penetration.If i wanted to use a mig to weld 1/4" and over i would get
a machine rated at 250 amps. at minimum.Anyway ,i'd go with the stick.
digger2

 

[teach]

Catman,
Good point on the welding environmnt. I will be forced to weld outside for at least 2 more years, no garage (yet). The wife's new kitchen comes first. The reason I mentioned those two specific welders is that I have accumulated several gift cards to a local retail establishment and these are the machines they carry that lie within my budget (small as it is). My dryer plug is on the second floor of the house, but I think I can install one in the workshop. I thought about trying to make up a super heavy duty extenstion cord for the 220 so that I can plug into an outlet in my workshop and weld in the yard or drive if I go with the stick welder. I appreciate everyone's input, sounds like folks are leaning towards the stick welder given the conditions that I outlined.
Teach

 

[John D]

Teach. I built up a 220 ex cord for my little Tstone lincoln. about 150ft long and ran it out to the barn from the shop and it worked fine for building the horse stalls. pain in the butt rolling up but a man got to do what a man got to do? I do have a gas welder now but that Ol lincoln done me good for 15 years. jb

 

[Lynkage]

It is too bad we live half a country away as I have a ac225 that I am selling. It is a good welder but I now have a Lincoln squarewave 175 pro that does both ac/dc stick and tig. It would be farily expnsive to ship but I only want $100 for it and I have about 40lb of 7018 3/32 rod to go with it.

 

[kloswerkes]

When I wanted to learn how to weld, I got some advice from some professional welders who had been welding for years and years about what they would get.

So I found some used pieces (Thermadyne 300GMS welder and Lincoln LN-25 w/Gas Solenoid setup for .045 flux core wire, with some extra flux core wire)
and bought them.

Then I tried to learn how to weld with them…..

The welder has 3 switches (each 3 position), and two knobs (Arc % and Amperage/voltage), which, if you’re new, lead to an infinite number of settings. The wire feed unit has a CC/CV switch(Constant Current(formerly Variable Voltage)/Constant Voltage), a polarity switch, and a wire speed dial. My local welding shop wasn’t familiar with the Thermadyne, so they couldn’t tell me how to set it up. Called Thermadyne, waited for the manual, and read as much as I could about wire feed welding (GMAW)

The more I learned, the worse it got. What type of welding will I be doing: Spray-arc, Globular transfer, or Short-circuiting? Do I weld CC or CV? Do I weld gas or flux core? Pure argon or a blend? What type of material am I welding? Have I done a spark test to see the carbon content? That will affect the electrode I should use. Electrodes can be bare or shielded. Electrodes for welding mild steel can be classified as fast freeze, fill freeze, and fast fill. With ac welding machines, polarity is not a problem. When using dc welding machines, you can weld with either straight polarity or reverse polarity. Do I need to weld with reverse polarity? Isn't .045 too big for most stuff? If I want to switch spools, don't I need an adapter and new rollers? Aren't those gauges you are using for oxy instead of argon? Man, you are lucky you are still alive.....and on and on it goes. I've spent more time in the welding shop than I have welding, with more stories than I care to mention.

I’ve learned a lot along the way, and I still know nothing compared to most welders.
But I’m getting better......

Based on my experience: Welders if taken care of, will last a long time.

a) Buy something as simple to use as possible, whether it’s stick or wire feed……

b) with as much current as you can afford – you can always turn a big welder down, but you can’t turn a little welder up.

c) Get a name-brand-been-around-forever welder, if you want trouble free no hassle use, with excellent support everywhere if you need it. I can get parts and consumables at multiple shops locally, and on the internet.

Next you’ll be asking about a welding helmet. A good auto helmet will cost more than the welders you’re looking at…..

 

[John White]

Go with the stick welder. I have had two of the smaller mig welderers (a 150 amp and a 200 amp) with the 150 amp a exhaust pipe or muffler was about all I could weld, with the 200 amp about 1/8 plate. Anything heavier and I would use my AC DC stick welder. I finally got a 250 miller mig and it does a fine job on any thing up to about 3/8 or 7/16.