Well they got the well dug today. 52 feet down and making lots of clean water. Apparently that is par for the course in our area. They are going to let it dry out overnight and come back and trench to the barn tomorrow and hook up the holding tank and yard hydrant.
While they were drilling they guy who did our driveway from the excavating company stopped by. He mentioned that they were really slow right now. Hrmm... maybe we can get a septic done before our big fall party and hayride on Oct 18th.
I am really looking forward to water at the property. Everyone has said it is the biggest change on the property. Immediately to me it means that we won't have to lug 300 gallons of water from my parents to the farm in the back of the pickup when we want to water the trees or pumpkins(which have been eaten by something the last couple weeks). And maybe be able to water the food plot much more easily. I will keep you updated on the hope of a septic.
Oh yeah, and I will try to post a couple pictures.
Asking as certified well driller:
Did they drill and drive at the same time using compressed air to flush out the cuttings from the well bore or did they drill th ehole wet with a mud drilling rig?
What type of casing did they use threaded or welded to together or plastic?
Shallow wells always risk surface contamination from surface water run off, especially if the casing is not sealed with concrete or bentonite clay, etc.
What did they use to seal the casing at the surface?
The leach field for your septic system has to be a minimum of 100 feet away from the well casing. the further the better of coures so if you have the room to put if far from the well head you should do it as running the long pipe from the tank to the leach field or sand filter is no problem-I have done it.
I think you mentioned installing an old aermotor ?
That involves a lot of preparation work. Each leg of the of the tower will require a pad foundation straight out from that leg of the tower and will need to be below the frost line.
The tower legs 3-4 will have an angle iron bolted to the leg and it will need to be secured to the slab with nuts and studs set/imbedded in the concrete to secure it to each slab the slab must be below the frost line as well as you will have a large amount wind load to anchor against. Aermotor has a slab size chart length/width/slab thickness for it windmills. use a formed foundation, rebar, and mesh with a concrete vibrator-that is a must as you will be burying a cured slab do not bury it before it is fully cured. A very high bag count sand mix is easy to work with for simplicities sake.
The mill will need a slab around the well casing as well to protect the well head as water will be drawn out of the well all the way to the surface through a packing gland and being pumped to a tank or a pump jack head. There i smore to know if you would like to know more.
Do not oversize the pump as you will starve the electric motor and burn it out-the casing if six inch diameter will hold 1.5 gallons per foot.
Also be sure they install a water sleeve to cool the electric motor as the motor is at the bottom of a centrifugal well pump and the water must pass the motor to cool it.
The same goes for using torque arrestors and wiring guides etc. Also do not use electrical tape to hold the wire to the drop pipe as toulene will leach from the tape into the water supply. Use heavy exterior use zip ties for that job-the black ones.
Also use a heavy polypropylene rope to attach it to the rope eye on the pump and not to the drop pipe, tie the excess around the exposed well casing above ground.
If you wish to really use the wind mill as a water pumper a steel drop pipe can be used with the electric pump on the bottom when you have no wind.
A gravity drop water tank can be installed in the loft of the barn very easily if it can handle the load per square foot.