Well Drilled - Results

[Pettrix]

Well installer put in the temporary tank and frost free connection. Once the home is built the tank and controller will be mounted inside a garage. They used a galvanized pipe as seen in the photo.





For now, how should I fill in this hole?

I don't want to bury it completely since I will have to excavate it again once the house is built and then I will have to trench a line from the pitless to the home. I put some pea gravel at the bottom. Can I fill the hole with more gravel and then put in a thermal blanket over the pipes and then put a landscape box over it? The frost line in my area is 18".

This way it will be easy to access the pipes when it's time to run the line to the home. I will use 1" PEX to the home.

 

[the old grind]

Good on ya for gettin' 'er done, and congrats on the encouraging flow test. :thumbsup: (I'm sooo jealous of your performance/output)

If I were to fill that hole temporarily I'd just use unfaced f-glass batts, packed any old way. It wouldn't discourage all critters from nesting there, but they'd be there to avoid the cold if so, and many might avoid it. There also shouldn't be too much leaf litter etc gathering under a weather cover. Should be easy to check, clean out, and proceed when the house is built.

Pettrix, this has been a very informative thread (tidbits & terminology) and I feel better prepared to discuss my desires with drillers when 'shopping' them, so Thank You!!!

tog (jon)

 

[Pettrix]

Is it pretty easy to remove the galvanized pipe coming out of the brass pitless adapter and replace it with stainless and PVC?

 

[Haoleguy]

Pettrix - The key factor in getting the galv pipe out of the brass pitless adapter will be that you have enough space to swing a pipe wrench to back it out. I assume that that the earlier picks show an expansion tank and drain valve......are you taking these out for winter? Are you draining the system or are you keeping the frost-free line available? Brass is compatible with either stainless or PVC. Don't forget to put thrust blocks where you have high flows that make a turn. I ended up blocking all my turns after exiting the well.

 

[Pettrix]

Pettrix - The key factor in getting the galv pipe out of the brass pitless adapter will be that you have enough space to swing a pipe wrench to back it out. I assume that that the earlier picks show an expansion tank and drain valve......are you taking these out for winter? Are you draining the system or are you keeping the frost-free line available? Brass is compatible with either stainless or PVC. Don't forget to put thrust blocks where you have high flows that make a turn. I ended up blocking all my turns after exiting the well.

They were able to get the galvanized pipe and the pipe wrench in that hole shown above in the picture. So it should be easy next time around since I won't be burying the piping in dirt, just pea gravel and rigid insulation to protect from freezing.

I will probably leave the tank and setup as is for winter, just drain it out. Our winters are not too bad.

What are thrust blocks?

 

[Haoleguy]

You are likely not needing thrust blocks because you will be using HDPE pipe and I assume thermal fusion. This is from Plastics Pipe Institute | Energy Piping Systems | Conduit Division | Building & Construction | Municipal & Industrial .... " Question 29 - Are thrust blocks required with HDPE pipelines? No. HDPE pipe and fittings joined by heat fusion are self-restrained in all applications, and therefore do not require thrust blocks, provided the entire system is fused. Thrust blocks may be required in cases where special gasketed mechanical fittings are used. This may be necessary to prevent separation of the gasketed joint just as it is required for gasketed PVC and ductile iron pipe in pressure applications. Detailed discussion of this topic can be found in Chapter 9 of PPI’s Handbook of Polyethylene Pipe, 2nd ed. Publications available from the pipe manufacturer may also cover this subject. "

As far as freezing temperatures only you would know the low Ts and duration for your area but don't underestimate mother nature.

 

[Pettrix]

Pettrix - The key factor in getting the galv pipe out of the brass pitless adapter will be that you have enough space to swing a pipe wrench to back it out.

I asked the well installer and he said it shouldn't be a problem removing the galvanized pipe from the brass pitless adapter.

Does the pitless need to be removed when doing that or do they just clamp down on the pitless and spin out the galvanized pipe?

 

[Haoleguy]

The pitless stays put. Someone will hold the pitless with a pipe threaded onto the inside top of the pitless while the other swings a wrench to back out the galvanized pipe on the well outside.

 

[Pettrix]

The pitless stays put. Someone will hold the pitless with a pipe threaded onto the inside top of the pitless while the other swings a wrench to back out the galvanized pipe on the well outside.

So they have to open the well cap and put a wrench on the inside of the casing? I thought they would be able to access it from the outside.

It's a pretty straight forward thing to do for a well guy, right?

 

[Haoleguy]

The 2 piece pitless is curved to fit the well pipe with an outside nut to press the inside body to the well. The current external well pipe is threaded into a female thread of the pitless and it's possible to back it out without holding inside. However, to make sure it doesn't move the well cap is taken off a T made threaded pipe is thread into the pitless from the top to just hold it while unscrewing the external pipe. This is an standard process and should not be an issue.