Well plumbing Device?

[yankeerider]

Our well system uses a submersible pump. I need to replace the pressure switch, because it is not turning on until system pressure is near zero. While the system is depressurized, I‘ll also replace the gauge, putting a valve between it and the system to facilitate future replacements. But I don’t recognize the device I‘ve circled in red. It is weeping occasionally, and I wonder if it’s actually necessary, and if I can just put a pipe plug in its place.

 

[ptsg]

A bit hard to see but looks like a pressure relief valve to me. Good to have in the system.

 

[seville009]

For what it’s worth, this is a picture of my system

. The input from the well is to the right; the water softener system is to the left.

 

[LouNY]

Most well pumps are multi stage units they can develop considerable pressure.

 

[yankeerider]

Thanks, guys. A little research on my part, help from you, I’m all set.

 

[ponytug]

Given the corrosion on the outside of the pipes, and that there seems to be a mixture of copper and galvanized, if it were me, I might want to replace the pressure relief and a few other pieces while I was in there.

All the best,

Peter

 

[tfuller]

Its a pressure relief valve to bleed excess pressure if the pump were not to cut off properly.

Everbilt 1/2 in. Brass Relief Valve for Use with Well Pressure Tanks EBRV50NL - The Home Depot

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Yeah as others mentioned, time to pull the manifold apart. The manifold and check valve can be cleaned up and reused, the relief valve if it's weeping should be replaced along with the nipples and adapters.

 

[WinterDeere]

Not too far from you, in eastern PA. It's common on our hard water, which also usually has some iron in it, to experience the exact symptoms you describe on old well pump switches. The issue is not actually the switch in most cases, but a clog in the 4" x 1/8" or 1/4" nipple upon which the switch is mounted. I'll bet you a beer you're going to find yours clogged with minerals or iron.

Essentially, this restricts flow between the switch and manifold, and builds "lag time" into the switch. So, if water is running, you get the symptom you described, of the system running down to zero pressure, before enough pressure is let off the actual switch thru the restricted nipple, to register the low pressure and turn on the pump. You can ream out the old nipple, but for less than $5, it's a heck of a lot easier to just replace it. Likewise with the switch, there's likely blockage in the orifice leading into the switch diaphram, which could be dug out, but you have to be careful, and likely it should be replaced anyway.

So, when you pick up a new well pump switch, also pick up a new brass nipple upon which to mount the thing. Make sure to note your pressures (30 - 50 vs. 40 - 60 psi), and other features (ie. burst pipe trip), so you get the right switch.

 

[Chanceywd]

Not too far from you, in eastern PA. It's common on our hard water, which also usually has some iron in it, to experience the exact symptoms you describe on old well pump switches. The issue is not actually the switch in most cases, but a clog in the 4" x 1/8" or 1/4" nipple upon which the switch is mounted. I'll bet you a beer you're going to find yours clogged with minerals or iron.

Essentially, this restricts flow between the switch and manifold, and builds "lag time" into the switch. So, if water is running, you get the symptom you described, of the system running down to zero pressure, before enough pressure is let off the actual switch thru the restricted nipple, to register the low pressure and turn on the pump. You can ream out the old nipple, but for less than $5, it's a heck of a lot easier to just replace it. Likewise with the switch, there's likely blockage in the orifice leading into the switch diaphram, which could be dug out, but you have to be careful, and likely it should be replaced anyway.

So, when you pick up a new well pump switch, also pick up a new brass nipple upon which to mount the thing. Make sure to note your pressures (30 - 50 vs. 40 - 60 psi), and other features (ie. burst pipe trip), so you get the right switch.

I've seen that around here in central ny. Years ago an elderly woman called me when having trouble like that. She had called a well driller about it and they told her she needed a new pump. I wasn't there anytime at all and see the way it acted. I took the switch off and cleaned the nipple out, but sometimes it is built up in the switch diaphragm too. I have taken the 6 or so screws out and cleaned them too.