Well plumbing Device?

[yankeerider]

Our well system uses a submersible pump. I need to replace the pressure switch, because it is not turning on until system pressure is near zero. While the system is depressurized, I‘ll also replace the gauge, putting a valve between it and the system to facilitate future replacements. But I don’t recognize the device I‘ve circled in red. It is weeping occasionally, and I wonder if it’s actually necessary, and if I can just put a pipe plug in its place.

 

[ptsg]

A bit hard to see but looks like a pressure relief valve to me. Good to have in the system.

 

[seville009]

For what it’s worth, this is a picture of my system

. The input from the well is to the right; the water softener system is to the left.

 

[LouNY]

Most well pumps are multi stage units they can develop considerable pressure.

 

[yankeerider]

Thanks, guys. A little research on my part, help from you, I’m all set.

 

[ponytug]

Given the corrosion on the outside of the pipes, and that there seems to be a mixture of copper and galvanized, if it were me, I might want to replace the pressure relief and a few other pieces while I was in there.

All the best,

Peter

 

[tfuller]

Its a pressure relief valve to bleed excess pressure if the pump were not to cut off properly.

Everbilt 1/2 in. Brass Relief Valve for Use with Well Pressure Tanks EBRV50NL - The Home Depot

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Yeah as others mentioned, time to pull the manifold apart. The manifold and check valve can be cleaned up and reused, the relief valve if it's weeping should be replaced along with the nipples and adapters.

 

[WinterDeere]

Not too far from you, in eastern PA. It's common on our hard water, which also usually has some iron in it, to experience the exact symptoms you describe on old well pump switches. The issue is not actually the switch in most cases, but a clog in the 4" x 1/8" or 1/4" nipple upon which the switch is mounted. I'll bet you a beer you're going to find yours clogged with minerals or iron.

Essentially, this restricts flow between the switch and manifold, and builds "lag time" into the switch. So, if water is running, you get the symptom you described, of the system running down to zero pressure, before enough pressure is let off the actual switch thru the restricted nipple, to register the low pressure and turn on the pump. You can ream out the old nipple, but for less than $5, it's a heck of a lot easier to just replace it. Likewise with the switch, there's likely blockage in the orifice leading into the switch diaphram, which could be dug out, but you have to be careful, and likely it should be replaced anyway.

So, when you pick up a new well pump switch, also pick up a new brass nipple upon which to mount the thing. Make sure to note your pressures (30 - 50 vs. 40 - 60 psi), and other features (ie. burst pipe trip), so you get the right switch.

 

[Chanceywd]

Not too far from you, in eastern PA. It's common on our hard water, which also usually has some iron in it, to experience the exact symptoms you describe on old well pump switches. The issue is not actually the switch in most cases, but a clog in the 4" x 1/8" or 1/4" nipple upon which the switch is mounted. I'll bet you a beer you're going to find yours clogged with minerals or iron.

Essentially, this restricts flow between the switch and manifold, and builds "lag time" into the switch. So, if water is running, you get the symptom you described, of the system running down to zero pressure, before enough pressure is let off the actual switch thru the restricted nipple, to register the low pressure and turn on the pump. You can ream out the old nipple, but for less than $5, it's a heck of a lot easier to just replace it. Likewise with the switch, there's likely blockage in the orifice leading into the switch diaphram, which could be dug out, but you have to be careful, and likely it should be replaced anyway.

So, when you pick up a new well pump switch, also pick up a new brass nipple upon which to mount the thing. Make sure to note your pressures (30 - 50 vs. 40 - 60 psi), and other features (ie. burst pipe trip), so you get the right switch.

I've seen that around here in central ny. Years ago an elderly woman called me when having trouble like that. She had called a well driller about it and they told her she needed a new pump. I wasn't there anytime at all and see the way it acted. I took the switch off and cleaned the nipple out, but sometimes it is built up in the switch diaphragm too. I have taken the 6 or so screws out and cleaned them too.

 

[WinterDeere]

I've seen that around here in central ny. Years ago an elderly woman called me when having trouble like that. She had called a well driller about it and they told her she needed a new pump. I wasn't there anytime at all and see the way it acted. I took the switch off and cleaned the nipple out, but sometimes it is built up in the switch diaphragm too. I have taken the 6 or so screws out and cleaned them too.

Yeah, I remember doing that in an emergency, one weekend evening when I didn't want to go find a 24-hour Lowes Depot. You can definitely get them working again in a pinch, if you're careful.

But the older I get, the more I worry about what I'm leaving behind for my family to deal with, when I'm gone. So, when it comes to old home mechanicals that I know will probably act up again in the future, I just make it a habit to replace with fresh, especially when it's as cheap as this hardware. I cleaned mine to solve the immediate emergency, but picked up a replacement later that week, and replaced it the following weekend.

 

[newbury]

But the older I get, the more I worry about what I'm leaving behind for my family to deal with, when I'm gone. So, when it comes to old home mechanicals that I know will probably act up again in the future, I just make it a habit to replace with fresh, especially when it's as cheap as this hardware.

Good advice for all of us.

 

[LouNY]

I may be a bit different but when something goes out I tend to buy two, one to install and one to go on the shelve.
I do the oil burner repairs for mine and the farms, I have enough spares to rebuild two burner control units. Usually I'll have
4-5 sets of ignitors and various nozzles on the shelve, including one complete burner and nozzle assembly to fit my boiler. A few ignition transformers, 24V power supplies ect..
Plumbing wise I always have several nipples and elbows of various sizes, a few pressure gauges, two water pump pressure switches. (I have two wells a shallow dug well and a drilled well both have submersible pumps in them).
A couple of sticks of copper tubing, Some PEX and even some PexAlPex for boiler lines, several boxes of fittings for copper and PEX.
90% of the time when something fails it's at night or during a storm.
It's a 45 minute drive to the nearest Lowes or similar stores.

 

[ruffdog]

Looking at the age of the pressure tank, it may need to be replaced or at least check the pressure. When was the last time the pressure was checked?

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Whew, submersible pumps good. Them old foot valve pumps bad. You can work on one all day, finally starts working, have no idea what you did that fixed it. I don't miss those one bit. Air charge, bladders, etc... I helped dad pull one a few weeks ago. It was submersible. We have three 36" wells, with a high-low water switch so it will switch the well it's using. One of the switches had gilflirted. Fixed and put back in. We had the loader with forks up and slid pipe over forks to not kink it. The Yorkie girl was overseeing the project as site manager.

 

[Valveman]

Glad you got the pressure relief valve fixed. You already have a brass 1/4" nipple going to the pressure switch, which usually does not clog like galvanized nipples. However, it is possible. It might also be the overload in the motor tripping. These are auto-resetting overloads and they usually cool down in a minute or so and it seems like the water just magically comes back on. If this is the case you have cycled the pump on and off too many times, which is what destroys pumps, tank bladders, check valves, pressure switches, and just about everything else in a water system. If the tank needs replacing it is time to upgrade to a constant pressure system using a Cycle Stop Valve which will solve all those problems, and can use a much smaller, less expensive tank.

 

[WinterDeere]

You already have a brass 1/4" nipple going to the pressure switch, which usually does not clog like galvanized nipples.

Galvanized may be even worse, but do believe me... 1/4" brass nipples clog plenty often enough.