Well pressure tank oddity

[Ford850]

Whether it's brass or steel, that 1/4" pipe will clog with scale or rust. I find the brass easy to clear out, and usually add a new switch at the same time as mentioned above. I used to mess with switch adjustments but realized it was a wasted effort and easier to swap out for a new one when they are off by more than a couple pounds.
My dad's pump had a 30-50 switch that gradually moved to 25-60. That's a wide pressure range, and adds stress to the water heater and expansion bladder through the many cycles. Both switch and pipe were less than 10 years old but easy to change out. I cleaned the pipe (it was plugged 50%) and added a new 40-60 switch and it's been working smooth for a year.

 

[Ritothebull]

If its a check valve leaking put an ear to the pipe after the pump kicks off and you will hear the water running back into the well.

 

[s219]

So I put my cell phone camera next to the gauge and filmed it after I turned on an outside faucet. Made it easier to see the numbers since the gauge is right near the floor and hard to read by eye.

Pressure dropped to 35 psi before the switch kicked on, then pressure went up to about 62 psi before the switch kicked off. After it kicked off, the gauge needle bounced to 65 psi (probably expected) then settled at 61-62 psi.

I think the high pressure cutoff is probably working OK, as 61-62 psi is pretty darn close to where it needs to be. The low end limit at 35psi is low though.

We do have hard water, so it wouldn't surprise me if that 1/4"pipe has a lot of crud in it after 7.5 years. I would have never thought of that but it's a prime suspect now. I think I will order a new switch to have on hand and then try to clean out that pipe.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it!

 

[5030]

Pitted contacts. I use emery cloth on mine about every year. Just be sure to turn the juice off.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Hard water is hard on everything. Possible calcification of the rubber pressure switch doohicky.

 

[Ritothebull]

The pressure switch won't have anything to do with the tank losing pressure.

 

[s219]

The pressure switch won't have anything to do with the tank losing pressure.

Tank is not losing pressure, it holds steady no matter where it's at. In the original post I meant to imply that the 40/60 switch is letting pressure go down to 35 psi before it kicks on. So the pressure is dropping lower than the limit of the switch.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Depending on how cheap you are, you could take apart the switch and clean it up. The diaphram that is. Kind of satisfying work.

Sadly, it seems that every pressure switch is of poorer quality then the one it replaced, so cleaning one up (with vinegar) may not be a bad approach. When you mentioned hard water, well, that probably sums it up.

 

[Clint S]

I would first verify the gauge is correct. You can make one that connects to hose bib. Most of those gauges are not accurate and do not last forever.
Then adjust per instructions on switch they do not last forever either and controlled by spring pressure.
If problem persists replace the switch. It could be clogged or just wore out

Although not your issue verify tank pressure as they should be checked every few years. Water power needs to be off and tank drained. Tank pressure should be 2 pounds below cut In pressure , preventative maintenance here.

 

[Ford850]

I bought my last switch at Ace Hardware. They had a good selection, quality, and decent prices. I was surprised.