Well pressure tank oddity

[mikester]

Slightly off topic, who has checked or re-charged their pressure tanks? How often do you do it?

I haven't touched mine in 22 years and I'm thinking I should top up.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah most likely the 1/4" nipple to the pressure switch is clogged. Good reason to have a pressure relief valve. If the pressure switch fails to turn the pump off at 60 as it should, the pressure relief will dump enough water at 75 PSI to keep the pump from melting down and the pipe from exploding due to high pressure.

Pitted contacts or burned contacts on the pressure switch are the most common problem, and is usually the first symptom of the pump cycling on/off too much. Good to notice the pressure switch points burning and solve the cycling problem before it destroys the bladder in the tank, the check valve, and will then take out the pump. If your tank is losing air, it has probably had all the cycling it can take and the bladder is torn.

How a Pressure Tank Works and why you need a Cycle Stop Valve on Vimeo

 

[ponytug]

Slightly off topic, who has checked or re-charged their pressure tanks? How often do you do it?

I haven't touched mine in 22 years and I'm thinking I should top up.

Unless your pump is rapidly cycling, you don't need to. If your pump is on, then off in seconds, then yes. To refill it, turn off the pump, and drain the water in your system (leave a tap open) while you use air pressure to fill up the tank up to slightly lower than your lower pressure setting. Then close the water the water drain, and turn on the water, and then the pump, and you should be good.

All the best,

Peter

 

[cdaigle430]

could also just be the gauge is off calibration...if not then its def the switch....both cheap and easy to fix. Whichever one it is its wearing evenly because you 5 under and 5 over.

 

[Valveman]

As air is lost from a bladder or diaphragm style tank, the run time to fill the tank gets shorter and shorter. By the time it is cycling every few seconds you have been damaging the pump for quite a while. The correct amount of air in a tank should give you at least 1 minute of pump run time, two minutes is better, and longer run times are even better yet. You can tell the tank is low on air when it only takes 45 seconds to fill instead of 60 seconds. Adding air and/or discovering the tank is bad at this time can save your pump compared to waiting until you hear rapid cycling.

Also, gauges usually fail reading high only. When you turn off the pump and drain the tank, if the gauge goes to zero it is usually good. If it only goes down to 10 or 20 when the tank is empty, it will add that 10 or 20 to the actual pressure in the system.

 

[the old grind]

Slightly off topic, who has checked or re-charged their pressure tanks? How often do you do it? ...

Far from off-topic, and good advice given here on the procedure. I check my tank charge every Summer around 4th of July when I change batteries in smoke and CO detectors.

 

[Fuddy1952]

I replaced my pump a while back and checked that 1/4" nipple pipe. Years ago a plumber friend and I replaced bladder tank and he replaced that pipe with stainless steel. After years the inside was clean as new.
I have replaced the gauge a few times over the 40 years, and cleaned contacts (power off!) and adjusted switch. Replaced switch twice.
I wired a light outside of well house, one side of switch (120v), red bulb so pump on light turns on. It's helped a lot over the years indicating a leak, bad pump, etc.

 

[turnkey4099]

So I put my cell phone camera next to the gauge and filmed it after I turned on an outside faucet. Made it easier to see the numbers since the gauge is right near the floor and hard to read by eye.

Pressure dropped to 35 psi before the switch kicked on, then pressure went up to about 62 psi before the switch kicked off. After it kicked off, the gauge needle bounced to 65 psi (probably expected) then settled at 61-62 psi.

I think the high pressure cutoff is probably working OK, as 61-62 psi is pretty darn close to where it needs to be. The low end limit at 35psi is low though.

We do have hard water, so it wouldn't surprise me if that 1/4"pipe has a lot of crud in it after 7.5 years. I would have never thought of that but it's a prime suspect now. I think I will order a new switch to have on hand and then try to clean out that pipe.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it!

The firsst time I had the problem, the pipe was so clogged I had to run a drill bit through it. My well poduces a bi of fine sediment occasionally which gradually builds up in that pipl.

 

[s219]

The switch I have now is a DSI, which seems to be a relabeled Square-D. Can't tell which model (and Square D has a whole bunch of 40-60 switches that look the same) so I need to pull the cover off the switch to see the label on the inside and get the specs. Then I'll look for the same model or an equivalent from another brand. Pretty sure it's this one:

http://www.ops-ecat.schneider-elect...ted States_en&prd_id=9013FSG9J24&conf=sensors

 

[MF RED in MT]

Our tank has a 40/60 switch and a few years ago I recall verifying those pressures on the gauge. I happened to notice the other day that pressure is dropping to 35psi then being pumped back up to 65psi. So something is off. Could this be a sign of a leaking bladder, or maybe the switch is going bad? The switch clicks on and off like usual. I don't detect any oddness other than the change in pressure.

It almost sounds like the pressure switch has been adjusted or is now in need of replacement?

From what I know, (be cautious of my post):

A 40/60 pressure switch should turn on the pump at 38 or 40 pounds (I think 40) and shut off the pump at 60 pounds.

A 30/50 pressure switch should turn on the pump at 28 or 30 (I think 30) pounds and shut off the pump at 50 pounds.

I believe it is the homeowners preference whether they want a 30/50 or a 40/60.

And I think some homeowners fiddle with the pressure adjustments to their desires.

Normally, when the power is off and the tank is drained down the air pressure left in the tank is 2 pounds below the low pressure of the pressure switch.

28 pounds for the 30/50 pressure switch and 38 pounds for the 40/60 pressure switch.

And that's my story and I'm sticking to it until someone tells me different...

Good luck with you issue,

KC

edit: Maybe the punp turn on pressure might be 30 pounds instead of 28 and 40 instead of 38 pounds, just cannot remember?