Well water has super-fine sediment

[Zippo1]

My daughter has town water. She is at the end of a dead headed line. Her water is the worst I've ever seen.

It'd be nice to find somebody to reload the media. Haven't found anybody that doesn't want to sell a whole system yet. Or to find instructions on how to do it myself. I can't believe it's rocket science

I was able to change the media in my filter myself. Basically, the controller on top unscrews. Dump out the old media, rinse the tank, add the new media and screw the controller back on top. This video is for a water softener but the process for a sand media filter is very similar. It really isn't rocket science:

Replacing Media Resin - YouTube

 

[DieselBound]

My daughter has town water. She is at the end of a dead headed line. Her water is the worst I've ever seen.

It'd be nice to find somebody to reload the media. Haven't found anybody that doesn't want to sell a whole system yet. Or to find instructions on how to do it myself. I can't believe it's rocket science

If you know/knew that this media worked then yes, go for it. However, and I'd mentioned this above, if someone else didn't get it right then changing it to the same thing isn't going to resolve issues (other than having refreshed media).

Have some water tests run and then provide the results.

Water professionals won't blindly do stuff. There's no way of signing off on something when you aren't sure what you're trying to treat. Liabilities. I am having this debate with a neighbor who I really want to help out: I told him he could have my old filter and UV setup (used when I was drawing from a spring), but w/o water tests there's no way of knowing whether it would be effective or not.

As noted by Zippo1 (hi, neighbor!), the process of changing media is fairly easy (though getting the water out of the tank can be a bit tricky- siphon it out rather than trying to drop and spill it out (which is what I did when I last changed mine- I'm getting older, so next time I'll siphon).

 

[jrsavoie]

If you know/knew that this media worked then yes, go for it. However, and I'd mentioned this above, if someone else didn't get it right then changing it to the same thing isn't going to resolve issues (other than having refreshed media).

Have some water tests run and then provide the results.

Water professionals won't blindly do stuff. There's no way of signing off on something when you aren't sure what you're trying to treat. Liabilities. I am having this debate with a neighbor who I really want to help out: I told him he could have my old filter and UV setup (used when I was drawing from a spring), but w/o water tests there's no way of knowing whether it would be effective or not.

As noted by Zippo1 (hi, neighbor!), the process of changing media is fairly easy (though getting the water out of the tank can be a bit tricky- siphon it out rather than trying to drop and spill it out (which is what I did when I last changed mine- I'm getting older, so next time I'll siphon).

Finding and buying media is an issue. I have no idea what I should get or how to find out.

they called this a Well Tamer it worked well for many years. Other than my daughter's plugging up. But she can plug one of the gallon sized whole house filters in fairly short order. When you cut a line at her house, the whole house reaks. Nasty smelling stuff. I was told it was because she is on the end of a dead headed water main. It ends where her line comes off for her house

Taming the well WCP Online

Contact Us

Well Tamer System by Melstream Industries - Google Search

 

[goeduck]

My daughter has town water. She is at the end of a dead headed line. Her water is the worst I've ever seen.

That would irritate me to no end, paying for poor quality water.

 

[jrsavoie]

That would irritate me to no end, paying for poor quality water.

Yep. the advantages of living in a very small town - 200 people - They don't have the money to make improvements. I offered to dig a new 1" or 1 1/4" line to the house - she has 3/4" now and pay for the materials and supply some labor. They turned me down. They said they didn't want to touch the main for fear they would open a huge can of worms

 

[DieselBound]

Finding and buying media is an issue. I have no idea what I should get or how to find out.

they called this a Well Tamer it worked well for many years. Other than my daughter's plugging up. But she can plug one of the gallon sized whole house filters in fairly short order. When you cut a line at her house, the whole house reaks. Nasty smelling stuff. I was told it was because she is on the end of a dead headed water main. It ends where her line comes off for her house

Taming the well WCP Online

Contact Us

Well Tamer System by Melstream Industries - Google Search

Perhaps this time it'll get across: You have to have water tests done in order to understand what things you need to treat. That the water is clogging filters isn't enough to go on: there may be other issues. One can chase one's tail unless one knows what the makeup is of the water they are dealing with. Go over to terrylove.com in their forums section under water softeners (I believe that's it) and there should be more than enough to point you in a good direction (if you can provide info, such as I've suggested, then it's almost certain that you can resolve the issue.

 

[jrsavoie]

Perhaps this time it'll get across: You have to have water tests done in order to understand what things you need to treat. That the water is clogging filters isn't enough to go on: there may be other issues. One can chase one's tail unless one knows what the makeup is of the water they are dealing with. Go over to terrylove.com in their forums section under water softeners (I believe that's it) and there should be more than enough to point you in a good direction (if you can provide info, such as I've suggested, then it's almost certain that you can resolve the issue.

What exactly testing do I need done? Perhaps this time it'll get across: I don't have a clue.

Do you have any links to the testing I need done and how to do it.

I have had several professionals over. They just want to sell water softeners.

I ask what that will do for the fine sediment issue and they say "nothing."

My water tested softer than a friends water - after his water softener. I believe mine, might be a little harder now than it was then and there is more iron now than there used to be. Not sure what changed.

My well does need to be redeveloped.

 

[DieselBound]

What exactly testing do I need done? Perhaps this time it'll get across: I don't have a clue.

Do you have any links to the testing I need done and how to do it.

I have had several professionals over. They just want to sell water softeners.

I ask what that will do for the fine sediment issue and they say "nothing."

My water tested softer than a friends water - after his water softener. I believe mine, might be a little harder now than it was then and there is more iron now than there used to be. Not sure what changed.

My well does need to be redeveloped.

Anyone looking to sell you (your daughter?) something HAS to base it off of some sort of water testing (they'll typically test on-site [bacteria testing needs incubation time, I believe, so that would likely be off-site and not something that most "one size fits all" salesmen would address]). They should show you what those tests showed: of course, take their numbers/tests with a grain of salt (partial PUN there).

I'd start by finding out what the municipal water folks are treating for and for the quality of the treated water (breakdown into individual elements tested). All such entities are mandated by law to include regular water quality reports: these are supposed to be available to anyone who requests them.

Couple that with what tests your County requires for water permits.

The following link is to a form used by a local water testing lab (which I've used many times):

https://www.edgeanalytical.com/wp-content/uploads/WSI.pdf

Clogging is usually going to occur from bacteria or mineral buildup (or a combo of). Bacteria test is pretty cheap (and turnaround is fast because of health concerns) and would be good to do. pH would give an idea on whether line corrosion could be happening: most such corrosion tends to occur within the end-customer's piping system. Turbidity should show if there's a sediment issue. THESE would be for what I'm gathering are possible issues with your DAUGHTER's water (if you're on a well then you'd be looking at needing more comprehensive tests, such as identified by your County for new building permitting). With test in-hand, and if it's point to the County, I'd go talk to the County folks: they may or may not be responsible; doesn't hurt to check with them first.

I understand how difficult this all can be. I bought a testing kit ($500 or so) from a water professional (out of state). Struggled with some readings right from the get-go. I recently had to retest and I had problems again (and then went back through my notes to see that it wasn't a new problem!). The test media (strips and such) that were included in the kit were for an older model of the tester (I got a new model, which is great, but having the wrong test media makes it all so not great). I believe that the guy is in fact good, but the story here is that sometimes even professionals screw up: if it's REALLY important one ought to get a better understanding and to look to validate the info/tests/products. I had a local well driller (and water specialist) successfully coach me through rehabbing my well: such people, with their help, compel me to pay it forward where I can.

 

[jrsavoie]

Anyone looking to sell you (your daughter?) something HAS to base it off of some sort of water testing (they'll typically test on-site [bacteria testing needs incubation time, I believe, so that would likely be off-site and not something that most "one size fits all" salesmen would address]). They should show you what those tests showed: of course, take their numbers/tests with a grain of salt (partial PUN there).

I'd start by finding out what the municipal water folks are treating for and for the quality of the treated water (breakdown into individual elements tested). All such entities are mandated by law to include regular water quality reports: these are supposed to be available to anyone who requests them.

Couple that with what tests your County requires for water permits.

The following link is to a form used by a local water testing lab (which I've used many times):

https://www.edgeanalytical.com/wp-content/uploads/WSI.pdf

Clogging is usually going to occur from bacteria or mineral buildup (or a combo of). Bacteria test is pretty cheap (and turnaround is fast because of health concerns) and would be good to do. pH would give an idea on whether line corrosion could be happening: most such corrosion tends to occur within the end-customer's piping system. Turbidity should show if there's a sediment issue. THESE would be for what I'm gathering are possible issues with your DAUGHTER's water (if you're on a well then you'd be looking at needing more comprehensive tests, such as identified by your County for new building permitting). With test in-hand, and if it's point to the County, I'd go talk to the County folks: they may or may not be responsible; doesn't hurt to check with them first.

I understand how difficult this all can be. I bought a testing kit ($500 or so) from a water professional (out of state). Struggled with some readings right from the get-go. I recently had to retest and I had problems again (and then went back through my notes to see that it wasn't a new problem!). The test media (strips and such) that were included in the kit were for an older model of the tester (I got a new model, which is great, but having the wrong test media makes it all so not great). I believe that the guy is in fact good, but the story here is that sometimes even professionals screw up: if it's REALLY important one ought to get a better understanding and to look to validate the info/tests/products. I had a local well driller (and water specialist) successfully coach me through rehabbing my well: such people, with their help, compel me to pay it forward where I can.

I am sure my well needs to be redeveloped or blown at the least. The blowing I can handle - it's kind of fun.

Do you think it would be a good idea to blow it first and then call the well people to redevelop it?

The county here seems to just do basic testing to see if the water is safe to drink or not. They don't test for much.

I will have to look into testing again if I ever find time.Originally my sediment was very fine. I had a bank of filters going down to 2 micron and there would still be a dusting in the toilet bowl after it sat long enough to settle.

Now it seems I have some iron to go along with it.

Had a guy once that I trusted. He's long gone now. Seems like I have a lot of that.

I'll have to contact the testing place in your link and see if they can recommend anyplace closer by to me.

Thanks for the advice

 

[DieselBound]

Trying to assess TWO different water sources is confusing.

"Basic testing" is baseline testing. Testing whether your water is safe to drink is, I'd think, important. If you don't know what your water is doing then you NEED to start from scratch and test even the basic stuff.

You probably have ferrous iron, which means you have to oxidize it in order to properly remove it. If you take a sample of the water it will initially appear fairly clear, but over a period of time (if there's dissolved oxygen in your water [usually there's some] , if not then infuse oxygen- stirring it up a lot will pull in oxygen) it'll turn slightly amber (and given enough time it'll revert to being clear as the, now, ferric iron will settle to the bottom.

Don't think that any cartridge filter is going to be able to filter anything other than sediment (because that's really mostly what they are for, sediment).

There will almost always be a lab close by that can test for bacteria. For other things you can send samples: just look online for water testing labs.