Well

[Kevin_in_VA]

Bob,

I think I am getting sediment because my well casing may be porous. The well is almost 40 yrs old. Will have that relined as well (no pun intended). The large amounts of sediment/sand we were getting earlier is more than likely due to the neighbor's new well. The bottom may have silted up too. There are just too many variables, and I could spend months trying to do it all myself.

I'm gonna have a Well guy come out this weekend and give me an estimate to fix the whole thing.

I went out and got a switch at lunchtime ($17), gonna install that tonight,. It may not be the problem, but at least I can eliminate it as a cause.

 

[ByronBob]

The pump runs until I open the contacts on the pressure switch. Pressure then goes completely down to zero.

Your foot valve in the submersible is gone. Your system even with a leak shouldn't go to zero after the contacts are off. I'm on board with everyone else that you need a new pump.

 

[JJT]

Excellent advice. I'd only recommend 1 addition, anytime you pull a pump and reinstall it, shock your well with some chlorine. The pump, pipe and wiring are going to be on the ground while you are doing your repair. On a 200' well I mix a gallon of chlorine with a gallon of water and dump it in. Let it sit a few hours and then run the pump a few hours with a couple of outside faucets wide open. If it were mine I'd pump the well dry a few times to clear out the chlorine.

Don't do any laundry until the chlorine smell goes away.

 

[PineRidge]

If you pull it yourself plan on having a lot of rags around. The drop pipe gets real slippery with rust colored crud. If you get it on your clothes momma ain't getting it back out either.

And be careful not to kick any small stones in the casing or you'll be done even before you see the pump. Small stones wedge a pump solid in the casing. If that happens things get real expensive quickly from that point forward.

 

[kenneyz]

OK here's my take, the check valve in your pump is gone, that's why your going down to zero psi. The pressure tank is sending you water back to the pump instead of to your faucet. your system is probably continually pulsing on and off in short bursts.? (watch gauge on tank with no water runnning anywhere) As for sediment, could be just that the well is so old it's built up over time and or the casing is not tight in the bedrock anymore and your getting some surface runoff in your well especially since it's so shallow. Good luck hope this helps.

 

[JASTN70D]

One thought I have is the sediment could be caused by all the water dumping back in to the well from the pressure tank and stirring things up a bit. This also seems to point to a big leak. The well has never had water dumped back in to it so it is getting stirred in a whole new way

 

[surfran]

I had the same problem with my well about 3 years ago. Its about 30' deep and the check valve had gone bad and would constantly get air into the system. The pump finally died on a Sunday so I called the well guy who came and fixed it. I gave him a hand pulling it and it was easy for that depth. He put in a new pump and pressure gauge. Cost me $1000 and I almost fell off my seat.........lesson learned ask the cost before starting (but I was kinda in a spot on a Sunday night).

Anyhow, here was the procedure he used.

Disconnect the Electrical Then with his 8-10' T-bar (1 or 1 1/4" I think) he screwed it into the top of the pitless adaptor. Then he proceeded to lift it out and up. The reason you want the Tee handle is so that if it slips it doesnt' go back into the well.

This is a 2 person job (especially for a novice) as the second person starts to grab the top as it will starts to lay over after you have about 10' out. Continue pulling until it is all out and lay on the ground. You may want to lay down some tarps or something similar to keep it cleaner.

You will probably hae a torque arrestor on the pipe which you want to leave on as it reduces the effects of the torque the pump creates when turning on.

Install your new pump and follow the advice given in an above reply on installing it.

The pitless adaptor is the next critical area. From the advice my well guy gave me, you want to replac the oring even if it looks pretty good. Make sure you lub it up with some vaseline as mentioned above and seal it well on the head. This is the area that can cause you leakage if it doesn't seat properly or you damage it during re-install.

Once you put everything back in place, shock the system with Chlorine. You can use bleach or a chlorine tablet from like a pool (that is what my well guy used). He had us shocke the system then the next day run the water out for an hour or so to an outside pump to cycle it through the system. Then take a sample and have it tested to make sure it is safe before drinking.

Many counties (at least here) will do it for free but for me it was part of my bargain price /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now you should be back in water heaven!!!!

 

[Steve_Miller]

Here's my take from what I've read so far. To me it sounds like you have a hole in the pressure line somewhere from the top of the pump to the pitless adapter (either inside or just outside the casing). First reason is because you say that as soon as the pump shuts off pressure drops to zero (this would also be a sign of a faulty check valve). Second reason is because the pump will run continuously and never make more than 35psi. If the check valve was faulty the pump should still make pressure over 35psi. as long as there are no leaks. Did your pressure problems start at this point when the water got dirty or was it later on? This makes the most sense to me as you stated that your water got dirty for a week or so after the neighbour popped in the well next door, so I can't see the pump going bad in a week if your water cleared up after that. It would take a long time to wear an impeller down as to bypass enough to not make any more than 35psi. (more than a week I would guess). As far as the air in the lines I think this is present because the leak is allowing the water to run back to the well and every time you start the pump the air has to be purged out of the line. I know, the water shouldn't run all the way back to the well every time but it will siphon back somewhat every time depending on how long the pump has been off. Just my two cents worth for what it is.

Steve

 

[Kevin_in_VA]

Thanks to everyone who has offered their opinions so far. I have decided to have a Well contractor come out and pull the pump. I will be present so that no shenanigans occur. It may be simeting as simple as a leak or I might indeed need a new pump. But I want them to prove it to me.

Thanks again

 

[midlf]

Please let us know what the problem was.