WHAT ARE YOU USING TO HAUL YOUR UTV

[Rockbadchild]

wouldn’t recommend aluminum keep cracking in the weld … i would go galvanized or steel.

 

[deserteagle71]

wouldn’t recommend aluminum keep cracking in the weld … i would go galvanized or steel.

???
I've had my Aluma for several years now. It spends most of its time on dirt roads with either my Wrangler or side by side on it. No cracks despite all the use on rough roads.

 

[Rockbadchild]

???
I've had my Aluma for several years now. It spends most of its time on dirt roads with either my Wrangler or side by side on it. No cracks despite all the use on rough roads.

have your check ?? most of them you won’t be able to see from the naked eye run an magnaflux dye or spot check and tell me some news … it’s possible yours haven’t yet if it’s supper duty but it’s supper common compair to steel plus aluminum is hard to fix the aluminum corrode then you can’t weld on it to fix it.

 

[ArlyA]

have your check ?? most of them you won’t be able to see from the naked eye run an magnaflux dye or spot check and tell me some news … it’s possible yours haven’t yet if it’s supper duty but it’s supper common compair to steel plus aluminum is hard to fix the aluminum corrode then you can’t weld on it to fix it.

More difficult repairs was why I stayed away from aluminum. I backed our steel trailer into a dirt bank this fall and destroyed the trail lights. Then it occurred to me they should have been mounted higher than B-text had. Not a bad job with steel.

 

[houska]

The technician also said that I only needed one tie-down on the back end. I ignored him and put tie-downs on all four corners.

I have no embarassment at all at overengineering for safety and simplicity.

I use 6 tie-downs. 4 corners, plus extras mid-side down from the door cage. That's because my short (10') trailer forces the back corner tiedowns go at an angle that limits how much they really control potential roll. I could sit there trying to think through the physics how to do it with the least number of tie-downs. Or I can just put 2 more on that I have anyway (for carrying weird lumber/junk trailer loads) and be on my way.

 

[coobie]

wouldn’t recommend aluminum keep cracking in the weld … i would go galvanized or steel.

My aluma trailer is 10 years old and I haul it a lot.Never had a cracking problem.

 

[Rockbadchild]

My aluma trailer is 10 years old and I haul it a lot.Never had a cracking problem.

I would say the majority of aluminum trailer do crack, now lift it up and expect every weld and cross member then let me know if you don't have any cracks I am glad your your trailer is not one of them ... now is it du to over loading or a specific manufactured problem I don't know but they flex and vibrate way more then steel and the weld do not hold some crack adjacent to the weld, some cracks are hairline some are bigger and visible, plus aluminum oxidize and react to salt then you have a hard time welding on it to repair it. My brother is a license welder and certified for aluminum, most repair jobs he see in his rebuilt shop are aluminum trailer and to fix them the most durable and cost effective way is to bolt a steal frame underneath them. I am just sharing my experience here and I am saying I wouldn't personally get one for that reason I would personally go with Galvanize or even Steel before aluminum.

 

[coobie]

I would say the majority of aluminum trailer do crack, now lift it up and expect every weld and cross member then let me know if you don't have any cracks I am glad your your trailer is not one of them ... now is it du to over loading or a specific manufactured problem I don't know but they flex and vibrate way more then steel and the weld do not hold some crack adjacent to the weld, some cracks are hairline some are bigger and visible, plus aluminum oxidize and react to salt then you have a hard time welding on it to repair it. My brother is a license welder and certified for aluminum, most repair jobs he see in his rebuilt shop are aluminum trailer and to fix them the most durable and cost effective way is to bolt a steal frame underneath them. I am just sharing my experience here and I am saying I wouldn't personally get one for that reason I would personally go with Galvanize or even Steel before aluminum.

Sorry no cracks in my trailer.I don't haul my aluminum trailer in the salt and its stored in my barn out of the sun.If I tow in the winter I tow with my 20 ft PJ steel trailer but guess what steel trailers rust also.Just a little food for thought.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Sorry no cracks in my trailer.I don't haul my aluminum trailer in the salt and its stored in my barn out of the sun.If I tow in the winter I tow with my 20 ft PJ steel trailer but guess what steel trailers rust also.Just a little food for thought.

don't be sorry, like I said I am glad your trailer doesn't have cracks ... I guess you have a aluminum trailer business ? sorry for hurting it ... i am well aware that steel rust that's why my trailer choice would be galvanize.

 

[coobie]

don't be sorry, like I said I am glad your trailer doesn't have cracks ... I guess you have a aluminum trailer business ? sorry for hurting it ... i am well aware that steel rust that's why my trailer choice would be galvanize.

Wrong again no aluminum trailer business here.Thick skin you can't hurt it.

 

[jjeff]

I have a steel trailer like mr Arly's for sxs and 4wheelers, works great has minimal rust easy to maintain and repair. I used to haul my pioneer 500 in the bed of my full size truck most 50" wide sxs will fit in a truck bed no problem. For snowmobiles I have 2 aluminium trailers they resist road salt salt alot better than steel imo. My older aluminum one is 20 yrs old or so its sitting in a field because it's riddled with cracks has a half dozen elongated egg shaped holes where steel bolts loosened. it's currently held together with quite a few pieces of unistrut and u bolts lol. My newer one is a Triton with a wishbone tongue and it's held up much better compared to my older one.

 

[KennK]

wouldn’t recommend aluminum keep cracking in the weld … i would go galvanized or steel.

I live in an area that is VERY ATV/UTV friendly. All roads except highways allow access and lots of maintained trails. My trailer's primary function is transportation from purchase and to/from the Kawasaki dealer for repair & maintenance during warranty period - hopefully at most yearly. After that the closer repair shop is on a nearby trail - I guess there are two shops on that trail. I'm much more concerned about the bearings due to lack of use than about aluminum weld cracks.

Still, your point is understood. Steel is stronger. That's why, had I bought a trailer that could also have transported my compact tractor, it would have been steel.

Honestly, the trailer price was low enough relative to the UTV that it could be replaced if needed. Still, the odds are that it'll probably last longer than I will.

 

[Jimmy Joe]

Good discussion going on never knew aluminum was so prone to cracking I guess there pros and cons to everything. I ended up buying a Floe Cargomax trailer mainly because even though the frame is aluminum I wanted to be able to easily move it around by hand. It is a 13 foot long trailer with a polyurathene like tub for a bed so at least that will not crack I really like the tailgate as it folds and also is easily removed comes off similar to a pick up tailgate so no tools needed. It also has tilt options for low clearance items like lawnmowers.

I don't anticipate a lot of trailering as I also live where most roads are open to atv and utv traffic but still need something for those occasions when I need to haul it. I was going to wait till spring but have had to borrow a trailer twice to haul my machine back to the dealership for repairs so decided to buy now. I would post a picture but not sure how to do it. If you search Floe Cargomax trailers they have some interesting videos they even shoot the bed with a 12 gauge shotgun.

 

[Poncho]

I bought a GPS steel unit made just down the road in Bainbridge Fl. Well made and lots of nice features... I bought a 2018 Intimidator which was much larger than the 2007 Yamaha Rhino that burned to the ground... so I had to upsize from my 5x10 to a 6x12. Only issue is with the top rail being steel 2x3 tubing instead of angle iron... the doors will not swing over them... so I have to slide out with door half way open