Baby Grand
Elite Member
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- Nov 12, 2007
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- 4,649
- Location
- Windsor, CT.
- Tractor
- Kubotas: L3240GST B2320HST B5100D & G5200H
That tractor's track looks wider than it's wheelbase! Must be nice on side hills.
What Bends/Breaks First :) Stump pushing or pulling...
- Thread starter TMR
- Start date
- Views: 13307
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
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- 7,555
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
The previous owner modified a 135 field tractor for use in his olive orchard. Replaced the 28" dia rear rims with 16" dia rims carrying Goodrich 6 ply 18.4-16A rubber (like you find on combines or self-propelled swathers) for high floatation and low squat to work under the tree branches (mowing, discing). The front axle spindles were shortened to keep the tractor level.
It would be a great tractor for mowing steep slopes with its low center of gravity--but my 10 acre place is flat pasture so I don't get to enjoy that experience
. But for folks with mowing jobs like that, this is an easy way to convert a tractor to do that work more safely.
chopped
Veteran Member
wow I envy you people without the roots growing around boulders. Mine if the come out,usually have a few rocks to them and now and then Ill get a bolder..lol
I would suggest cutting the pine tree up about 18 -24 inches above the ground thensaw on top of stump across north and south ,but don't go completly across as the intended purpose os this is to make the stump hold water also saw east and west about 2 inches apart ;forget about the stump for three to four years then go kick it out with your foot. this works very good on cedar all you have to do with cedar is cut it off about two feet high and make sure there's no limbs left on stump come back 2-3 years and kick out ,if you cut it off at the ground the stump will be there 10-15 years . thanks holt50
boggen
Elite Member
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- Feb 22, 2011
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- 3,789
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- Trivoli, IL
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- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
everyone else pretty much has it, with just a generic tractor. but myself prefer a "backhoe" so much easier to just backup put the out riggers down. take a few swipes around each side of the stump to break roots. and if need be. move tractor around to another side, to break roots. and pop comes the tree stump.
i have gotten more skiddish over the years. with chains, cables, and ropes. and recoiling back at me. they can and do snap back at you. and at bare min, when i am in gear, i will refuse to drive straight in line with cable or chain. but will always drive off at an angle. so if something does snap or come loose. it will more likely wip dangerously pass me. vs directly into my back or head killing me.
if you have enough stumps, i would say just rent a backhoe or excavator. and be done with it. quicker and easier.
if you were only dealing with a couple stumps. ok, using a subsoiler to help cut through roots around the tree. and then using a chain to pull stump out. i would give it a go. but there is a point between time spent and hassles and headaches. vs just getting it done. there are multi ways of doing things. no wrong or right way, though sometimes having the right tool for the job makes a night and day difference. and like many folks another trip to hardware store or like.
in your case, if buying a tractor, i would encourage a backhoe. if backhoe is out of price range, then rent a backhoe or excavator. open the old paper phone book (internet yellow pages for me are a joke) and look up "equipment rental" or machine rental, or something like that in the phone book, call around even up to 1 to 2 hours away driving distance. and get prices for renting from daily to weekly. price can be HUGE even if rental place brings it out to you and picks it back up even a 2 hour drive for them. could be chump change compared to actual rental costs.
personally. now having the TLB (tractor loader backhoe) i could not live without the backhoe. comes in very handy, granted it is a costly little item. besides cost of tracker and front end loader. but money well spent. from digging a hole to plant a tree, to a couple swipes to redo a flower bed, / moving a flower beds. to lifting some things in and out of a truck. to post pulling, culverts, etc..
as far as front end loader. you can bind them up. and twist the arms. and damage a general duty bucket. and you normally need to pay extra for a heavy duty bucket for the loader, then pay extra for a good either cutting edge or tooth edge on front edge of bucket, then like many folks, putting some hooks and re-enforcement on the front bucket. so you have a place to hook chains to. the end loader, are not the best things to use like others have said for stumps. granted i have put them through the riggers of death. but others doing same thing have had very costly repairs.
i have gotten more skiddish over the years. with chains, cables, and ropes. and recoiling back at me. they can and do snap back at you. and at bare min, when i am in gear, i will refuse to drive straight in line with cable or chain. but will always drive off at an angle. so if something does snap or come loose. it will more likely wip dangerously pass me. vs directly into my back or head killing me.
if you have enough stumps, i would say just rent a backhoe or excavator. and be done with it. quicker and easier.
if you were only dealing with a couple stumps. ok, using a subsoiler to help cut through roots around the tree. and then using a chain to pull stump out. i would give it a go. but there is a point between time spent and hassles and headaches. vs just getting it done. there are multi ways of doing things. no wrong or right way, though sometimes having the right tool for the job makes a night and day difference. and like many folks another trip to hardware store or like.
in your case, if buying a tractor, i would encourage a backhoe. if backhoe is out of price range, then rent a backhoe or excavator. open the old paper phone book (internet yellow pages for me are a joke) and look up "equipment rental" or machine rental, or something like that in the phone book, call around even up to 1 to 2 hours away driving distance. and get prices for renting from daily to weekly. price can be HUGE even if rental place brings it out to you and picks it back up even a 2 hour drive for them. could be chump change compared to actual rental costs.
personally. now having the TLB (tractor loader backhoe) i could not live without the backhoe. comes in very handy, granted it is a costly little item. besides cost of tracker and front end loader. but money well spent. from digging a hole to plant a tree, to a couple swipes to redo a flower bed, / moving a flower beds. to lifting some things in and out of a truck. to post pulling, culverts, etc..
as far as front end loader. you can bind them up. and twist the arms. and damage a general duty bucket. and you normally need to pay extra for a heavy duty bucket for the loader, then pay extra for a good either cutting edge or tooth edge on front edge of bucket, then like many folks, putting some hooks and re-enforcement on the front bucket. so you have a place to hook chains to. the end loader, are not the best things to use like others have said for stumps. granted i have put them through the riggers of death. but others doing same thing have had very costly repairs.
With 10+ year old stumps, a small tractor might make easy work of the pine stumps.
I've got a lot of 1-5 year old pine, oak and cedar stumps and they cause more jolts to the tractor and me when trying to work them out than I care for. My bent up front bumper, smashed hood and bent bucket will testify to that.
Take your boot and an axe to a few of them. If they are still stout, you'll tear up your tractor. If they are something that just seem to be a little too much work for hand work, the tractor will be fine for 100+ or so of them.
Some old guy once said you could knock a few holes near a stump and push corn down them.. the wild hogs will come and dig for the corn and in the process work the stumps loose. I'm guessing the old guy was FOS but he may have a point. I don't mind letting the wild hogs do something.. they roam through here already. A few of them getting smoked makes tasty eats too.
-Luke
-Luke
I've got a lot of 1-5 year old pine, oak and cedar stumps and they cause more jolts to the tractor and me when trying to work them out than I care for. My bent up front bumper, smashed hood and bent bucket will testify to that.
Take your boot and an axe to a few of them. If they are still stout, you'll tear up your tractor. If they are something that just seem to be a little too much work for hand work, the tractor will be fine for 100+ or so of them.
Some old guy once said you could knock a few holes near a stump and push corn down them.. the wild hogs will come and dig for the corn and in the process work the stumps loose. I'm guessing the old guy was FOS but he may have a point. I don't mind letting the wild hogs do something.. they roam through here already. A few of them getting smoked makes tasty eats too.
-Luke
-Luke
Baby Grand
Elite Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2007
- Messages
- 4,649
- Location
- Windsor, CT.
- Tractor
- Kubotas: L3240GST B2320HST B5100D & G5200H
Someone told me a similar story - said when his father had a stump to remove he used to put a fence around it, throw some corn in the holes and put one of their farm hogs in the pen. He said they didn't remove the stump, but they did a fair job of exposing all the roots, making removal much easier. He also told me that to keep them from digging under their regular pen they'd throw in a bowling ball and they'd spend all day digging around that instead.
Smoked does sound tasty!
One better than that is a rope threaded through a chain link every foot or two.
Use the heftiest rope you can thread through and have a few feet extra slack at each end. Tie off one end to the tractor, the other end to the load, not to the chain itself.
Oh yeah, if the chain breaks DO stop the tractor before the rope goes tight (-:
The rope is in no way a back-up for a broken chain.
I can't seem to do that. The tractor or truck will slide the front or rear sideways until it is a straight in-line pull, unless the load is light enough I don't worry about a break anyway.
Bruce
boggen
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- 3,789
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- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
a chain is as strong as the weakess link in it. other words. keep the chain short as possible. chain / rope / cable for that matter.
i understand about rear or front end sliding sideways. but that is what i do on purpose (causing the sliding some). so if the chain / cable / rope does break. and if it does come flipping back at me. my body will not be in direct line of the snap. (well hopefully anyway)
and with above, i have had more close calls than i care to admit with breaks and snapping back at me. and just being that 1 inch to 2 feet off center between what ever, the chain and rear end of truck or tow bar of tractor has saved me by just driving at an angle and letting things slide some, and if i get to straight in line, i will back up some, then drive back at an angle to keep my body off center.
when you see that chain / cable / rope sling past your head and missing you barely. a few times like i have, ya start thinking.... hmmmmsss is there a better way of doing this?
