Box Scraper What box blade to consider??

[kw22614]

I have a BX1860 SCUT. All the paperwork says it's a category 1 3ph. I've been told it can't handle a 5' BB only a 4' BB. I've seen a more affordable new 4' at TSC with great reviews but it's Cat 0, will it work, do I need to beef up the connection points? I plan to use it for maintaining my 225' long gravel driveway, grading/leveling my yard, cutting a drainage swail or 2 and maybe even snow removal. What BBs should I consider with affordability being a main concern? I'd have no prob with used.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

For very light grading only, where you're not moving moving much material, your BX1860 could probably handle 5' just fine. But as soon as you put the rippers in the ground or fill up the box with a lot of material, you'll be spinning your tractor's tires or bring it to a dead stop. So, yes, a 4 footer would be the right size.

Just for comparison, I have a heavy duty 6' Gannon box blade on my 50hp tractor, and it can stop my tractor dead in its tracks if I accidentally load it up too much (especially if I forget to put it in 4wd).

As for brands, I'd look at all the "usual suspects." E.g., Gannon, Woods, Land Pride, Bush Hog, Rhino, etc. Check Craigslist frequently. Around here there are always a bunch of box blades on there. And a box blade is one of the safest things to buy used because there's just not much to go wrong with them. Make sure it has all the scarifiers with it or factor the cost of replacing them into the price.

 

[kw22614]

Thanks Pappy. I've been thinking the same thing - it's good to know I'm not alone. I've been checking CL many times daily and think I may have found a decent one. It's a King Kutter XB 48X0-0, orange even. Was listed for $350 and he said he'd take $300 with no prompting when I called him so maybe when I go see it he'll go even lower. From the pic it looks in good shape, nothing seems to be bent, broken or missing but it doesn't have the connection pins. He said he bought it new in '04 and only used it a few times backfilling while building his home on his BX 23. Been stored outside so has a little rust. Raining cats, dogs and horses here today so I plan on going to check it out tomorrow or Tues. Only about 30min from me. Anything special I should look for???

 

[Fallon]

Destroyed paint is of minimal concern, nature of how they get used. That leads to light rust that polishes off in the dirt. Make sure nothing is bent or cracked. The wear edges on the back might be worn, but they are usually designed to be replaceable. They are pretty simple chunks of steel.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Yep, what Fallon said. Also, check the rippers and their mounting slots to make sure one or more of them isn't bent, cracked or otherwise boogered up, which could be an indication that it got hung up on a rock or root and is sprung. Same thing on the 3 point hitch mounting points.

Northern Tool sells that 4' King Kutter box blade for $549. Tractor Supply sells their 4 footer for $549 also. So $300 is a fair price if it's in good shape. $275 would be exactly 1/2 of retail.

 

[kw22614]

Here's the pic listed.......

 

[madamos]

Here's the pic listed.......View attachment 352407

Looks, good I am looking for a 54" to use with my B20 but I would consider a 48". Unfortunately there just are not a lot of them for sale near me.

Paul

 

[kw22614]

Just bought the box blade! Is in great shape - like new - just weathered from being stored outside. Got it for $280. All I need is the hitch pins top and bottom. The top hitch end is 3/4" id and bottom hitch ends are 7/8" id. Which hitch pins do I get?

 

[Fallon]

TractorData.com - Three-Point Hitch

Most ranch/farm/tractor type stores have an isle full of 3pt pins, hitch pins, cotter pins, clevises & what not. I assume you are looking at one that has a nut & threads on one side & pin on the other. I think you probably want pins on the outside. Get some Lynch Pins of the appropriate size as well to keep the 3pt arms from falling off.

 

[LD1]

Measure your tractor.

IF it is indeed category 1 as you say, thats 7/8" pins. So go to TSC and get category 1 pins with 7/8" diameter threads.

The top hole on that pox blade being 3/4" is also standard category 1. Do you have any other implements you use with this tractor. Shouldnt have to buy any more pins for the toplink if you alread have one and use it with other implements.

 

[kw22614]

Thanks Fallon & LD1. This is my first implement utilizing the top link. I made a drawbar w/trailer ball for the bottoms with tabs to keep it from spinning and a carryall box with just a bent hitch pin for the top link. Are all cat1 lower pins the same length and just the threaded end comes in different lengths?

 

[LD1]

Nope. You can get the lowers in different lengths too. But ideally, you want them as short as you can and still be able to get your 3PH arm on, and still get the lynch pin in there. You dont want them too long. They can bend easier, or cause side to side slop of the implement, depending on what type of anti-sway you use.

Something around 2.5" or 3" length should be more than plenty for the "pin" side

 

[Fallon]

Nope. You can get the lowers in different lengths too. But ideally, you want them as short as you can and still be able to get your 3PH arm on, and still get the lynch pin in there. You dont want them too long. They can bend easier, or cause side to side slop of the implement, depending on what type of anti-sway you use.

Something around 2.5" or 3" length should be more than plenty for the "pin" side

The length of the top pin is less critical. Nothing nearby to interfere with if its to long & supported on both ends for strength. Unlike the lift pins.

 

[LD1]

Correct on the top link. Just as long as its long enough to go through and get the Lynch in. No harm in being too long there. In fact both my Bush hogs need an extra long pin there. But the same pin works in everything...

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Congrats on the new box blade. That just almost exactly 1/2 of retail, or even less considering no sales tax. Sounds like a great deal to me.

 

[kw22614]

Thanks again LD1 & Fallon! Got all the measurements for the hitch pins and going to TSC tomorrow to hunt 'em up. What diameter lynch pins fit cat 1 pins? I think they're all 7/16, right? Guess I'll find out for sure tomorrow when I start sticking 'em in the holes. :laughing:

Thanks Pappy, guy had bookoo equipement all over his yard- just wanted it out of his way. I'm real happy with the find. I'll try to post a few more pics tomorrow.

 

[LD1]

Yep. 7/16 lynch pins

 

[kw22614]

Got all my pins and hardware yesterday @ TSC. Tried on the box today, still way too muddy to try it, fit fine but was very sloppy side-to-side. Guess I have to adjust my stabilizer turnbuckles to alleviate the slop. Here's a few pics..

 

[Fallon]

The turnbuckles & side supports should be tight when using anything but plows (lets them wander around rocks & obstacles a bit & avoid hanging things up). That and loosen them up for when you are hitching things up obviously, unless you have a quick hitch (which I'm pretty sure you don't have yet).

 

[TripleR]

Got all my pins and hardware yesterday @ TSC. Tried on the box today, still way too muddy to try it, fit fine but was very sloppy side-to-side. Guess I have to adjust my stabilizer turnbuckles to alleviate the slop. Here's a few pics..

I found these far superior to the OEM turnbuckles, from Stabilworks: StabilWorks