What Brand/Type chain should I buy?

[RobertN]

I use mostly Stihl chain(primary saw is Stihl); do have Oregon on a Husky.

I bought one of the Oregon sharpening jigs that clamps on the bar. It works great for a reasonable price. It is easy to set up and use. I thought I was doing a good job with a file and guide; I was surprised how bad I was...! I have done lots of mechanical work, including calibrating wafer sort equipment for sub-micron probing. But my had filing of saw chain was not so good!

OREGON brand bar-mount filing guide

My chains cut better than new after setting that jig up(it still uses a hand file). I totally believe what others have said here about filing making a better edge than grinding. I also believe a lot of folks probably take too much material off with grinders.

The biggest thing I have found over the years, is not to let the chain get dull. Now I use the Oregon jig, and then do a couple touch-ups with file/guide, and then on the Oregon jig. If you keep on top of the sharpening, the saw cuts better, less work, and the chain seems to last longer.

 

[ultrarunner]

I had 3 smaller chains in a zip-lock bag from last year...

Surprised at how stiff they got...

Will need to soak and try my hand at sharpening...

 

[94BULLITT]

I use Stihl chains and a Oregon Bar mount filing guide to sharpen them.

If you get a Oregon bar mount filing guide be sure it is the Pro model like Robert linked in his post. The ones they sell at lowes are flimsy.

 

[kenmac]

I bought the grinder (not from harbor freight ) I believe it's Oregon brand from northern tool.. I just could never sharpen with hand file.

 

[TomSeller]

I bought the grinder (not from harbor freight ) I believe it's Oregon brand from northern tool.. I just could never sharpen with hand file.

Same here. I could get them sharper but not what I would call sharp. I am impressed by those that can.

 

[crazyal]

I pretty much only buy Stihl chains as well. I have tried both Husky and Oregon but always remember why I like Stihl brand. I bought one of the HF sharpeners and used it once. Now it's somewhere upstairs in the garage. The grinding wheel was too aggressive. I either use a hand file or for more than a simple touch up I use a Dremel with thread cutting oil to keep from heating up the metal too much.

 

[Happy Gilmore]

I've always bought Stihl chain as well, I hand file mine. I do have an Oregon 511 bench mount grinder, may have to dust it off one day.

 

[ultrarunner]

Was out cutting last week and started with a new loop of Stihl Chain and for once I did not hit a piece of embedded wire or nail.

The two other guys asked what chain I was using because it just kept cutting.

 

[TomSeller]

Was out cutting last week and started with a new loop of Stihl Chain and for once I did not hit a piece of embedded wire or nail.

The two other guys asked what chain I was using because it just kept cutting.

What are you cutting that you hit wire and nail?

Anything that was remotely close to being a fence in the past, I cut off and ground level and about 5.5' and burn that section.

 

[jpm1]

We have 5 Stihl saws and a wood processor. I use all Stihl Bars and Stihl chains. Ive tried them all for the most part and found Stihl to hold an edge better. On our processor we've been sawing dirty logs and average 40 cord on a grinding of the chain. I don't use a hand file because it takes to long. i have 3 -42", and 2-24" chains to do every day. When i get a new chain, (and i use all full chisel chains) I always grind it before it goes on the saw. I also cut the rakers to .035 from the start and touch them every other grinding. My chains cut better than the ones on TV. For those who say grinding eats a chain to fast, well, our processor chain has cut about 2000 cord of 18" right now and is at the 40 percent mark, i don't think thats to bad a wear considering the junk its been cutting.
In closing, weather your hand filing or grinding chains, there is a special "nitch", it all comes with practice.
Happy Cutting, John