Was out cutting last week and started with a new loop of Stihl Chain and for once I did not hit a piece of embedded wire or nail.
The two other guys asked what chain I was using because it just kept cutting.
Yup, they cut a lot better if you only cut wood. Not rock, sand metal.
We have 5 Stihl saws and a wood processor. I use all Stihl Bars and Stihl chains. Ive tried them all for the most part and found Stihl to hold an edge better. On our processor we've been sawing dirty logs and average 40 cord on a grinding of the chain. I don't use a hand file because it takes to long. i have 3 -42", and 2-24" chains to do every day. When i get a new chain, (and i use all full chisel chains) I always grind it before it goes on the saw. I also cut the rakers to .035 from the start and touch them every other grinding. My chains cut better than the ones on TV. For those who say grinding eats a chain to fast, well, our processor chain has cut about 2000 cord of 18" right now and is at the 40 percent mark, i don't think thats to bad a wear considering the junk its been cutting.
In closing, weather your hand filing or grinding chains, there is a special "nitch", it all comes with practice.
Happy Cutting, John
2,000 cord of 18" on 1 chain is doing DARN WELL. I imagine you are in the top 1% of users on TBN. I doubt I'll cut 2,000 cord in my life.
John, would you mind sharing some info on your chain sharpening setup? Make and model number, maybe some tips on how you're using it? I've tried the Harbor Freight tool and would rather replace a chain than use that again. Thanks!
I'm not John BUT
Harbor Freight's grinder is rarely worth the cost to of the two trips, 1 to drive to the store to buy it, the other to return it.
I've got a Northern Tools grinder from 2009. Think I paid $80 for it (before the 25% off). At the time (2009) it was a leading "candidate" which often required a little work to translate from Chinese to American. This was a known problem and usually easily fixed. I had to shim mine and apply a piece of duct tape. The final result rivals the quality of the flagship Oregon 511A, which was going for over $400.
However NOW the low price on the NT grinder is $120 and Oregon produces a min Grinder which will sharpen most homeowner chains for about $200. If your not sharpening ripping chain the Oregon wins hands down.
When I'm "cuttin wood" it's usually for either my sawmill or a chainsaw mill. A chainsaw mill REQUIRES a sharp chain. For my use I arbitrarily picked a cycle of sharpening.
Starting with a new chain -
Cut about 10' or 20' of tree (that's lengthwise)
Touch the chain up by hand
Repeat for the third touchup
Then use a Granberg File n' joint
Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide | Parts | Granberg | www.baileysonline.com
to ensure my angles were pretty correct.
Repeat three times (9 touchups, 3 file n' joint) then take them to the grinder to make sure everything is accurate.
The one time I took a chain in for sharpening I would have been better off buying a new chain.
Learn how to minimally hand file if you are going to run a chainsaw. Learn how to change a tire if you drive a vehicle.
