What do you do with your forks?

ambeaver4 · Jan 4, 2015

I have a set of Titan forks for my JD 4320 and a set of WR Long forks for the MF 1528. Both sets are built with high quality and hold up to the loader capacities, probably more. My favorite chore is putting a sturdy pallet on them and using to get on the roof, hang Christmas lights and change flood light bulbs. All of that of course with a trusty friend or relative driving.....

Terrasteve · Jan 4, 2015

These are the titan light duty forks. They are rated for #1500 they clamp on and also have slots to chain them on for added bucket protection when doing some serious lifting. Can be installed or taken off in about 1 minute. They have pockets to add stakes for rollback protection as well. I mainly use them for hauling brush and moving logs.

TomSeller · Jan 5, 2015

Happy Gilmore said:
You won't regret it.

Agree 100%

TomSeller · Jan 5, 2015

ambeaver4 said:
All of that of course with a trusty friend or relative driving.....

One with an easy hand on the curl?

Garandman · Jan 5, 2015

Loading a 400+ lb snowmobile. Added a forward guy to keep it level.

I'd like to get some slip-on fork extensions like the dealer has so I could just pick it up. The ones I've found thus far are over $400. Any suggestions?

jodebg · Jan 5, 2015

Anyone have any experience with a set of 3 pt hitch forks by the name of Farmit made by BHS Energy?

Log Skidder, Forklift, & more for 3-point hitch

Thinking about having a set of forks made similar to these that would fit both the 3 pt hitch and the front loader arms.

Building this a bit wider and adding mounts for the loader arms.

These are quite interesting. Detachable forks that remove and mount upright behind the
steel frame-super easy storage and always have them in the field. Chain link
locking brackets top and bottom, skidding and towing. Adding a winch mount too.

For my needs, this may be a very good design.

Your feedback and ideas would be appreciated.

Any idea as to the type of steel I would need, and the cost of materials?

94BULLITT · Jan 5, 2015

I think they look pretty good. Keep in mind if you go wider with the forks they may not go under 3'x3' pallet but most pallets are 42''x48'' or 48''x48.''

FixAll · Jan 6, 2015

Garandman said:
Loading a 400+ lb snowmobile. Added a forward guy to keep it level.

I'd like to get some slip-on fork extensions like the dealer has so I could just pick it up. The ones I've found thus far are over $400. Any suggestions?

Get a couple of lengths of rectangular tubing, large enough inside to slip onto the forks (5x3 perhaps), 1/4" wall thickness, long enough to run full length of the existing forks plus whatever you need for added length up to about 4'. Weld a collar of 1/4" x 3 flat bar around the inboard end, drill and tap for a 3/4" or 1" diameter bolt for clamping the tubes to the existing forks at the back end.

The outboard end can be slotted or notched on the sides then partially collapsed and welded up to create a taper.

Pictured is the quick-attach fork setup I made from my B-I-L three years ago. The forks are 2x4x1/4 rect. tube, the outboard ends are tapered as described above. We have moved tree-length logs, blocks of split granite, steel beams and bars, pallets with brick, cement pavers, firewood, other tractor implements...the list goes on and on. Nothing has bent or cracked yet, the forks will handle any load the FEL hydraulics can handle.

FixAll · Jan 6, 2015

Garandman said:
Loading a 400+ lb snowmobile. Added a forward guy to keep it level.

I'd like to get some slip-on fork extensions like the dealer has so I could just pick it up. The ones I've found thus far are over $400. Any suggestions?

Get a couple of lengths of rectangular tubing, large enough inside to slip onto the forks (5x3 perhaps), 1/4" wall thickness, long enough to run full length of the existing forks plus whatever you need for added length up to about 4'. Weld a collar of 1/4" x 3 flat bar around the inboard end, drill and tap for a 3/4" or 1" diameter bolt for clamping the tubes to the existing forks at the back end.

The outboard end can be slotted or notched on the sides then partially collapsed and welded up to create a taper.

Pictured is the quick-attach fork setup I made from my B-I-L three years ago. The forks are 2x4x1/4 rect. tube, the outboard ends are tapered as described above. We have moved tree-length logs, blocks of split granite, steel beams and bars, pallets with brick, cement pavers, firewood, other tractor implements...the list goes on and on. Nothing has bent or cracked yet, the forks will handle any load the FEL hydraulics can handle.

View attachment 405608

bobm6996 · Jan 6, 2015

UTCenturion: I would like to see if I can find the containers you mention in this post. I have seen them for sale somewhere, but can't remember where. What are they called so I can search for them? Searched on IBC, but got nothing.

Thanks,
Bob

aczlan · Jan 6, 2015

bobm6996 said:
UTCenturion: I would like to see if I can find the containers you mention in this post. I have seen them for sale somewhere, but can't remember where. What are they called so I can search for them? Searched on IBC, but got nothing.

Try searching for "IBC Tote". Here are some that might be close to you: https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=ibc totes&sort=rel

Aaron Z

bobm6996 · Jan 6, 2015

Thanks aczlan.

oldbones · Jan 10, 2015

I use mine for everything. Forks are on at least 95% of operating hours. Built my own from parts collected from forklift service center, and made my own mounts. Added a "The Thumb" grapple that I slid on and off when needed. I just finished another fork attachment and mounted the grapple on it, so now it's a dedicated grapple. Have several tools I've made for the fork attachment: slide-on drawbar for moving wagons and trailers, slide-on tree puller, slide-on chain hook, etc. I'll try attaching a few pics of the first fork attach with grapple.

jodebg · Jan 10, 2015

Do you close up photos of the forks that you made along with the mounts and attachments. Thanks

Garandman · Jan 10, 2015

Picked up this Hemlock log today and brought it from the back yard to the wood yard. Had to cut it into pieces to lift it, and even this section flexed the forks. But I can't imagine how I would have moved it otherwise.

Mighty Dodge · Jan 10, 2015

Lift logs, pallets, gas engines, they rarely come off the tractor. Had a new sad job for them last Friday, had to dig a grave for my old dog.

ArmyPair2 · Jan 10, 2015

With my Titan forks and this plan is locked in jello, in the morning I will pull off the RR and put my forks on then drive up to the front yard. I have a baby stump and parts to a telephone pole I need to place in a burn pile.

jrclark · Jan 11, 2015

Got to try out my forks today. I'm not sure exactly why this is, but there's a substantial gap between the bottom of my QA and the bottom of the plate on the forks. Tell me this is not normal, because they've already popped off while stacking a couple logs.