Oil & Fuel What do you use to fill your JD with Diesel?

[RollingsFarms]

This sounds like a silly question, but my 2320 arrives next week and wondering what the concensus method is for filling the tank. Do most of you use a good old red plastic container . . or do you go with a bigger one and some sort of hand pump?

The position of the filler cap looks a little akward with a heavy fuel can . .and i can anticipate pouring diesel everywhere. Maybe it's easier than i think.

With a 5-6 hour?? tank range I would think two cans might be needed.

not a silly question at all. I have a 150 gallon underground tank(diesel for farms is tax detuctble) when i'm out working where I can't drive back to re-fuel i have a 75 gallon diesel tank/pump on the back of my truck. watchout for those 5 gallon diesel hand tanks...the nozzels don't last long for some reason, and have heard some experience condensation in them. also dirt/dust/small debris will stick to it like glue and can get down in the nozzel and into your fuel.

 

[DrainPondDesign]

I do not use a lot of fuel so for me this is what I've settled on.

I use 2 1/2 gallon plastic fuel cans because.
>Easy to hold up until emptied into the tractor tank, even for my wife.
>Easy to take to the gas station to refill.
>They do not rust
>Can stays full until needed so fuel stays fresher.
>When the tractor fuel gauge reads about 1/2 I can just dump the whole can in without worrying about over flowing.
>With my usage the price of additives is not an issue so I add Power Service all year and an anti gel during the winter to each can before refilling.
>Most posters here agree that it's best to keep your tractor fuel tank full to reduce moisture condensation.
Enjoy your new JD.

 

[mx125]

Great info. Far more tips than I thought there would be on fueling . . but stuff I needed to know. Many thanks to all!

 

[jeffinsgf]

I must be the king of overkill on this issue. I have a 300 gallon bulk tank. I only buy 150 gallons at a time (the minimum for delivery). Seems to come up every fall, just when my local ag fuel dealer (MFA) switches to their winterized blend. Lasts till the next fall. Never had a problem with water or anything else in the tank. I just pull up and fill with the gravity feed nozzle. It will take several years for the savings on bulk delivery and off-road, tax-free fuel to equalize the cost of the bulk tank, but right now I am burning 1.79 diesel instead of 2.79. And, you can't beat the convenience.

 

[EdC]

I use 2 5 gallon yellow diesel cans and then put a paint filter in the funnel. The 2320 sips fuel. I have spent several hours doing loader work and pulling brush and the tank will be more than half full.
I am looking into having a drum of farm diesel delivered. It is a Lot cheaper then the $3.00 or so per gallon for non dyed stuff. If I go that route I'll just get a crank pump.

 

[cast_and_blast]

I use 2 five gallon yellow "Blitz" brand plastic jugs. They are cheap (I think I got mine at walmart), they have a self-venting spout and they have a handle on the top and one on the side which makes holding the weight of the jug when full much easier.

Make sure you get the right cans - in MN you cannot dispense fuel (from a station) into an improper (wrong color or glass) container. Yellow is what you're looking for.

Good Luck!

Scott

 

[mx125]

I use 2 5 gallon yellow diesel cans and then put a paint filter in the funnel. The 2320 sips fuel. I have spent several hours doing loader work and pulling brush and the tank will be more than half full.
I am looking into having a drum of farm diesel delivered. It is a Lot cheaper then the $3.00 or so per gallon for non dyed stuff. If I go that route I'll just get a crank pump.

Can I ask a couple of other questions . . .

What is the difference beween farm and regular (non-dyed) deisel? I didn't realize there was dye added or removed(?) for auto use. Is there any difference in performance or long term engine maintenance to either?

And I should ask about the filters used. Is there a higher tendency for debris in diesel, hence the paper filters, or is that just prudent due to collection of dirt on the outside of cans?

Also, it seems many have no trouble with aged fuel and can leave tanks for up to a season without ill effects. I should have done more research on deisel before I asked. Perhaps the breakdown is less meaningful vs. gasoline . . with octane decrease not as important as in gasoline?? In any case . . which additives do you recommend?

Wow . . I thought it was a simple question . . I had no idea I would find this aspect so interesting!

 

[jeffinsgf]

My understanding is that age is not the issue with diesel that it is with gasoline. I have had zero fuel problems burning 11 month old fuel. I just changed a perfectly clean filter on my tractor. Not a hint of water in the separator and no visual signs of anything on the filter. I changed it anyway.

I guess if I had ever had a clogged fuel line, I might not be snickering at the guys that are using paint filters, but I haven't, so I am a little. I guess I better stop before the Fates decide to teach me a lesson.

Dyed diesel tells the tax inspectors that the fuel has not had road tax paid. Sometimes at the sale barns the inspectors will pull a sample from a pick up they suspect of running off-road fuel. There is absolutely no difference in the fuel, other than the dye. In fact, when MFA delivers, the just flip a switch to add the dye as it is pumped into my tank.

As far as additives, make sure that you aren't "double dosing" your fuel. MFA puts an equivalent to Power Service in for all deliveries made after mid-October. Any time you see "Winter Blend", make sure you don't add too much more additive.

 

[cast_and_blast]

What is the difference beween farm and regular (non-dyed) deisel? I didn't realize there was dye added or removed(?) for auto use. Is there any difference in performance or long term engine maintenance to either?

None, except the color added and the lack of tax paid on the dyed fuel. Typically used for larger ag applications. Growing up on a farm, we had 150 and 300 gallon barrels full of diesel for use in our tractors. It was dyed and we did not have an issue with additional maintenance.

And I should ask about the filters used. Is there a higher tendency for debris in diesel, hence the paper filters, or is that just prudent due to collection of dirt on the outside of cans?

We did not use any additional filters on our tractors - never had an issue. Can't say it's a bad idea, but not one that I use even today. I just keep my fuel containers clean and mind where I fuel my tractor - especially cleaning the area around the fuel cap before opening.

Also, it seems many have no trouble with aged fuel and can leave tanks for up to a season without ill effects. I should have done more research on deisel before I asked. Perhaps the breakdown is less meaningful vs. gasoline . . with octane decrease not as important as in gasoline?? In any case . . which additives do you recommend?

It's a bigger deal in cold climates where anti-gel agents are added to the fuel. We always had to be careful to purchase our late fall and winter fuel after the anti-gel was added (usually after September 1 here in MN).

The cetane (not octane as is in gasoline), as I understand it, will decrease over time but not as dramatically as gasoline. There are cetane boost products as well as other additives to help with gelling and fuel pump lubrication. Typically, I do not bother with these in my diesel car or my tractor. My fuel is fresh and used relatively quickly. I know others that swear by the additives. Power Service is one that is used around here.

Good Luck!

Scott

 

[YASH2520]

I use a 15 gallon drum and a 12 volt fuel pump. The height of the fill cap and position behind the riser for the loader on my 2520 made it awkward to fill. Now as easy as filling my car.