What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails.

   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #71  
I wish I could mow low, but unfortunately it is an uneven field with rodents that burrow the ground and make mounds of dirt and the foxtails start seeding right out of the ground, I've tried it with my flail mower and all I'm doing is mowing mounds of dirt from the rodents, and the flail mower is not designed for mowing dirt. So my only option is turning the dirt over before they go to seed.
If you mow enough you will level it out and if you really want it gone you just as well figure on spraying with some chemicals.
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #72  
I speculate that a coil-spring protected Field Cultivator would destroy rodent burrows with one pass. After two or three burrow destruction experiences rodents will probably seek a safer site.

I trust your house is a good distance from the field with this rodent infestation~~~~~~

( I do not have ground burrowing rodents in Florida.)

Speaking of the rodents; in my area specifically Pocket Gophers. My field has been ripped up every year since I've lived there. (20 years) they have not tired of having their tunnels destroyed. They just start rototilling the tunnel out. I have traps that go in the tunnel and work pretty good, but if the whole community doesn't help out it like dealing with the BORG. "Resistance is futile" I trap some when I'm not growing, the cat really likes them.:licking:
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #73  
Speaking of the rodents; in my area specifically Pocket Gophers. My field has been ripped up every year since I've lived there. (20 years) they have not tired of having their tunnels destroyed. They just start rototilling the tunnel out. I have traps that go in the tunnel and work pretty good, but if the whole community doesn't help out it like dealing with the BORG. "Resistance is futile" I trap some when I'm not growing, the cat really likes them.:licking:

Remove the food source and them varmits will go elsewhere.
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails.
  • Thread Starter
#74  
I was trying to determine what size cultivator to buy for my tractor and was given this response when I was questioning why they were recommending a 15 to 25 hp cultivator for my 32hp rated engine. I found the response interesting so I thought I would share it.


In the beginning, tractors were rated by drawbar HP and belt HP, so tractors 100 years ago were labelled a 12-20 for example. The belt HP was the higher number.

As the use of a belt to power stationary equipment died out and PTO driven implements came into vogue (roughly by the 1930's), tractors had engine, PTO and drawbar HP specifications. The drawbar HP was the true pulling power, but it was also the lowest number and sales departments largely opted to use PTO HP numbers to promote tractors.

You could say the PTO number is a "middle of the road" number but it was also not honorable 90, 80 or 70 years ago to sell tractors by engine HP since* there were a multitude of tractor makers and many of theme were fleecing the public with low prices and inflated or unproven claims on performance. Then Nebraska University started the Nebraska Tractor Tests to test every tractor so by mid-century, a test report was largely expected by the buying public for every new tractor model made.

At the Nebraska Tractor Test Lab, engine HP is tested but then weight is added to the tractor to maximize traction for pulling power. The ability of the tractor pull under maximum load is tested at this point.

Without sufficient tractor weight, tractors pull less (more wheel slippage). Engine HP alone does not take tractor weight into account. There is natural loss of power through the drivetrain, which the difference between the engine HP and drawbar HP measures the loss. The PTO HP number is typically bigger than drawbar HP since there is less drivetrain power loss through the PTO.

Through the second half of last century, sales literature mostly listed the PTO HP first to differentiate the power between different models.

Then -- by the end of the century, tractor makers were largely again selling tractor by engine HP. The model number systems also often reflected the engine HP. Unlike their grandfathers, new, younger tractor buyers are increasing becoming unfamiliar with this science of tractor power and traction.

Regarding tillage implements, since tractors were so long measured by PTO HP, power requirements of tillage implements tended to also be measured the same way. Perhaps now the implement specs need to be converted to engine HP -- BUT this is hardly universal knowledge at this point, so I'll rebut the point that "pulled implements were rated (or have been rated) by engine HP".

In the end, pulled implements can't be rated by engine HP. If the tractor doesn't weight enough, it doesn't matter how big the engine is - the wheels will just spin. The industry will have to work through this self-imposed "knowledge gap" on tractor power.

Shame on the tractor makers for selling tractors by engine HP.

Mike

Buckeye Tractor Co.
P. O. Box 97
11313 Slabtown Road
Columbus Grove, OH 45830
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #75  
I would agree with everything you wrote. My tractor weighs 8000 pounds and when I pull the spring tooth harrow or disc harrow I use four wheel drive. It will pull in two wheel drive but the tires are always spinning. Putting rim guard or similar might take care of that. But that's a thousand dollars away.:laughing:
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails.
  • Thread Starter
#76  
I would agree with everything you wrote. My tractor weighs 8000 pounds and when I pull the spring tooth harrow or disc harrow I use four wheel drive. It will pull in two wheel drive but the tires are always spinning. Putting rim guard or similar might take care of that. But that's a thousand dollars away.:laughing:

Just want to clarify I did not write the above letter, Mike from Buckeye tractors wrote it, I hardly have the experience to be giving anyone advice on tractors or implements. :D

I do have rim guard in my tires so that should help out. From the letter above I now need to rethink my implement purchases from what they are giving as hp ratings, talk about confusing.
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #77  
Those foxtails and weeds are probably non-native. You might kill them (chemical, plow, frequent mowing, etc.) and plant native bunch grasses, sedges, and coyote brush. There are species of these that seem to grow on no water at all and stay green all summer.
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails.
  • Thread Starter
#78  
I am looking to purchase one of these two models of Field Cultivators to control the weeds from growing, the yellow one is a Gearmore built out of Chino California and the other is a UnverFerth - Perfecta built out of Kalida, OH. I will be purchasing the 5' wide model, pictures below are stock photos. Does anyone have any first hand feedback on these units, or any suggestions on the style of S-Tines to choose, there appears to be three different styles of tines and three or four kinds of tips. If you own this style of implement please share your operating experience or tine selection. Thanks

IMG_1627.PNG

IMG_1631.JPG

IMG_1632.PNG
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #79  
The weeds will always grow unless you have something else growing there. Make sure you have a plan in place. I grew up using a 12' S tine field cultivator with sweeps. It did a fine job, but we were planting into the tilled soil each year. You can't use it every year and expect 'good' grasses to establish. Every time you run that through your soil, you will kill BOTH weeds and grass. And the weeds are more resilient.
 
   / What implement works best for controlling weeds, foxtails. #80  
You ainta gonna kill either with steel. Takes chemicals and considering the trillions of seeds a field of either generates, pre emergent every year would be necessary.

The STEEL under consideration by the OP in Post #78 may do it.

OP will still need to grow something else to prevent noxious weeds from taking over again.

<$3,000 for the train of Gearmore implements OP is contemplating.

I will never tell your Wife.



GEARMORE GSC6: http://www.gearmore.com/gearmore/do...l_Conditioners/BL0015-08_Soil_Conditioner.pdf
http://www.gearmore.com/gearmore/files/SoilCond_GSC.pdf
 
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