What implements for improving overgrown woods road?

[jeff9366]

My other thought is that a root rake/grapple could help break up the vegetation, and then a rear blade or box blade could work. I've never used a grapple, is this a reasonable job for that tool? What design of grapple would you look for if that was one of your jobs?

The Kubota ~ /40 tractor series seldom or never came with SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) FEL couplers. To attach a grapple you will have to add SSQA. Not huge but not minor either. Seek a good welder.

Plan 'B' would be clamp-on Pallet Forks of 36" or 38" length attached to your existing bucket. You can add a grapple "lid" to your existing bucket. Not perfect but functional for brush. Try clamp-on Pallet Forks for awhile before ordering bucket lid.



Heavy work should be done with Three Point Hitch implements, NOT the Front End Loader. If you push with the Loader you will break it sooner or later. A grapple is designed to pick up loose material.

Your situation is complicated by having just 32-horsepower/net on a 3,400 pound bare weight tractor. I doubt you will be able to pull a Disc Harrow fast enough to cut vegetation and move dirt as some advised before you entered Kubota L3240 model in your T-B-N Profile.

An L3240 can manage a (light) Disc Harrow with 18" diameter pans, 66" wide or 72" wide for certain, possibly a more functional Disc Harrow with 20" diameter pans, 66" wide or 72" wide. Close call on tractor capability. (My L3560 is successor model to L3240.)

Which tractor transmission does your L3240 have?

4-WD or 2-WD?

Wait until Spring. Once everything starts growing spray road with Roundup/Glycophosphate . Respray over summer as needed to keep everything off. By then you'll be able to regrade as bare ground rather than fighting lumps of sod.

Use FEL to move and distribute soil and avoid temptation to use it as a dozer, you will only tear it up. Box blade is the tool for most work.

I advise leaving soil compacted. Bring additional soil from other locations on property, spread it in layers, roll to compact, water/rain then repeat until road is built up and crowned. Make sure you know how rainwater will run to avoid erosion. Managing storm water is often 90% of success.

Two posts with good advice.

 

[mainenate]

Here's a ripping boxblade unlike any other. It features patent pending 100% AR450 Hardox steel, easy adjust ripper shanks.

Wicked, they say!

Travis

Actually Travis, I emailed EA about placing an order for a Xtreme duty 66" box blade this morning, but the reply I got is that you're 6-8 weeks out on orders! I need it in more like 4 weeks, or else the ground will be frozen, so I'll have to choose a lesser product (Titan probably). But I'd rather stick with yours! If you can sort that out for me to get the lead time down to a month, I'm all in.
Thanks, Nate Hanson

 

[airbiscuit]

I think the box blade with scarifiers will do the trick. It won't be perfect the first time, but half the vegetation that's left will dry out and get ground up. Next spring there will be even less vegetation left.

Lather, Rinse, Repeat.

 

[Egon]

Box blade with rippers and multiple passes over a few weeks to break up the sod. Then a back blade to dig out the material and move it back and forth to complete the breakup, mix the soil, level and crown the road surface. This will take a few passes. Follow up with compaction during the final shaping and after finishing the grading.