Get grade 70. Get at least 5/16". 3/8" is better if you don't mind the weight. I have broke 5/16" jerking out concreted fence corners. The break was likely not due to the weight as much as the jerking and damaging the links. I have broke 5/16" pulling out stuck vehicles. 3/8" is practically indestructible with compact tractors though 5/16" will likely serve you fine but you can break it under certain circumstances. I used some 5/16" G70 to lift a 6,000 lb diesel tank today. It was overloaded but worked and was all I had at the moment. It was a slow cautious lift though with no jerking and I only lifted it 6" to put some wider feet under the tank to reduce sinking in the mud.
What is in and where is a good overall chain?
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rd_macgregor
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CobyRupert
Super Member
That is odd. Maybe they compared different manufacturer's ratings, and/or used a different safety factor to obtain the working load. :confused3:
LD1
Epic Contributor
If you look at chain across the board, grade 80 is not only higher alloy (stronger material) but is thicker by a little bit than grade 70 as well. Yet only has a slight increase in capacity (except 5/16).
I think it all boils down to grade 70 is NOT meant for lifting. Grade 80 + is. And they IMO, are ultra conservative with the ratings.
All the chain, weather it be G43, g70, g80 or g100 is "proof" tested. That means before it even leaves the factory, every snigle link has been tested to TWICE its rated capacity.
Another point worth noting when comparing grade 43 to grade 70.....grade 70 is MUCH stronger than the ratings would indicate.
There is a 3x safety factor on g43. There is a 4x safety factor on grade 70.
So...5/16 g43 is "Rated" for 3900# and g70 at 4700#. Grade 70 only rated 17% higher. But the ultimate break strength is 11,700 vs 18,800. The G70 is actually 38% stronger.....just rated for a higher safety factor.
Also, one would think by upgrading to 3/8 gr43 vs 5/16 gr70 they would be getting a stronger chain since its rated for 5400....or 13% more.......not the case.The 3/8 gr43 break strength is only 16,200 vs 18,800. So the 5/16 gr 70 chain "actually" is 14% stronger.
I think it all boils down to grade 70 is NOT meant for lifting. Grade 80 + is. And they IMO, are ultra conservative with the ratings.
All the chain, weather it be G43, g70, g80 or g100 is "proof" tested. That means before it even leaves the factory, every snigle link has been tested to TWICE its rated capacity.
Another point worth noting when comparing grade 43 to grade 70.....grade 70 is MUCH stronger than the ratings would indicate.
There is a 3x safety factor on g43. There is a 4x safety factor on grade 70.
So...5/16 g43 is "Rated" for 3900# and g70 at 4700#. Grade 70 only rated 17% higher. But the ultimate break strength is 11,700 vs 18,800. The G70 is actually 38% stronger.....just rated for a higher safety factor.
Also, one would think by upgrading to 3/8 gr43 vs 5/16 gr70 they would be getting a stronger chain since its rated for 5400....or 13% more.......not the case.The 3/8 gr43 break strength is only 16,200 vs 18,800. So the 5/16 gr 70 chain "actually" is 14% stronger.
Cord
Veteran Member
G70 is a good quality transport grade chain that's readily available. Higher and lower grades are available. That said, your tractor isn't all that big. Frankly, with your machine a 5/16" G43 chain would be sufficient to live a long life. I wouldn't go less than G43 because you don't exactly know what you are getting from China these days. If you really wanted to upgrade, go to a 3/8". I'll be honest; I've never broken a 3/8" G20 chain and I've pulled on some of them pretty hard. I did break a unrated 5/16" once, but I was really abusing it. Trying snap a chain puts a significant dynamic load on a chain. It's the guys with 100hp tractors that need the heavy duty stuff.
kennyd
Advertiser
We always recommend 5/16" Grade 70 "transport" chain, as stated above it's reasonably priced, readily available, well within the safety margin of all compact tractors, and its easy to handle.
Lowe's has a pretty good deal, a 20' piece with two grab hooks for under $40, ask them to cut it in half-then buy two more grab or slip hooks (like maybe the Twist-Lock ones we sell hint:hint) and you've got two lengths of chain for a reasonable price.
Lowe's has a pretty good deal, a 20' piece with two grab hooks for under $40, ask them to cut it in half-then buy two more grab or slip hooks (like maybe the Twist-Lock ones we sell hint:hint) and you've got two lengths of chain for a reasonable price.
aczlan
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Also, note that if you are using it for a tiedown, if its not marked (most GR70 has a 7 or a 70 stamped every few links) it is assumed to be grade 43 (which can be a problem if you need the extra capacity to keep the DOT cops happy).
Aaron Z
Aaron Z
LD1
Epic Contributor
I thought if not marked, it was to be assumed that its grade 30 ?? I could be wrong though.
aczlan
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BHD
Veteran Member
allI know is if towing or pulling some thing I use 3/8" if light stuff I have a few 5/16" and the lawn tractor I have a 1/4" for it,
I have broke and stretched a number of chains over the years, both 5/16" and 3/8"
and have a few cables 3/8" and 1/2", one is over 100 long and was nearly to short once this summer when I got the pick up stuck, Grass and stubble keep the ground wet and mushy over a large area,
don't jerk chains or cables,
make sure there not twisted or knotted up when using.
and use secure locations to attach to, proper clevises or locking hooks, Had a class mate get a bolt though one and lodged behind his other eye, pulling a tractor when the bolt slipped and launched through the back window of the cab in to his face. needless to say he never saw after that, I think he was still in high school or just graduated HS. that was 45 years ago or so now,
I have broke and stretched a number of chains over the years, both 5/16" and 3/8"
and have a few cables 3/8" and 1/2", one is over 100 long and was nearly to short once this summer when I got the pick up stuck, Grass and stubble keep the ground wet and mushy over a large area,
don't jerk chains or cables,
make sure there not twisted or knotted up when using.
and use secure locations to attach to, proper clevises or locking hooks, Had a class mate get a bolt though one and lodged behind his other eye, pulling a tractor when the bolt slipped and launched through the back window of the cab in to his face. needless to say he never saw after that, I think he was still in high school or just graduated HS. that was 45 years ago or so now,
