What is the best drill press for metal and how do you dril

[Big Barn]

After reading it in an old blacksmithing guide, I have found that bacon fat left over from the pan is great to use as a cutting oil. I have a capped jar handy and just slide up onyo the drill bit before cutting. Lasts outside fine. Stays solid.

I like the old drill presses best. Well made. My father in law passed two onto me that he had picked up from his work as a machinist. One is an Atlas.

I have a hand crank from 1890 or so mounted on the wall.. It works but I like electric better.

Slow and easy, clamp your work down. -Holding it ......one of these days it will spin free and take a nice nick out of your finger!

For those that have never seen a hand crank drill press, here's mine.

 

[ultrarunner]

Rigidy is your friend when it comes to drilling... a rigid drill press reduces chatter and provides greater control.

When drilling large holes a center drill followed by a progression of larger drills can make the job easier/possible with light weight presses.

A drill will always drill oversize.

For accurate holes I will drill slightly under and then ream to size.

Types of Stainless will work harden and that the action of drilling can change the hardness making it more difficult... often slow with plenty of lubricant can overcome and make the drill go longer between sharpening.

A lot of the industrial presses will have at least one speed slower than 50 rpm...

I have spent days drilling 2" and larger holes in 1" and thicker steel plate with a radial arm press... a radial arm lets the work stay in one position while the drill chuck is moved from one spot to the next.

Drill bits under .250 are often deemed as consumables and not sharpened in a production shop...

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

If you are going through 1/8" or thinner, step drills work great.

Amazon.com: Neiko 1194A Titanium Step Drill Bit, High Speed Steel | 1/4" to 1-3/8" | Total 1 Step Sizes: Home Improvement

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

So I know this is welding and this is also not a shop class, but I am struggling a bit.

How do you drill metal? And various Metals (hard and soft, aluminum yada yada).

Drill Presses. I keep seeing Drill Slow, and then I look at drill presses and all of them are like 500 RPM at the slowest.

Drill Bits.. Why Anular? Why the various types?

What are the poor mans tricks the keep stuff from slopping around?

Maybe someone has a link to a site? And I know there is expensive ways as well, but wouldn't mind responses toward the normal / poor shop owner.

It would help us if you tell us what you want to drill.

 

[TMGT]

Most has been covered but I'll add that getting a 3ph press can sometimes be more affordable, adding a variable frequency drive (VFD) will allow you to run on single phase and adjust the motor speed up or down some if needed.

Here's my drill press and mill

 

[vidio1]

You can look at government auction sites for drill presses too. Bigger is usually better within reason. It will be more rigid and usually more powerful. Find a speed chart for drilling like this: https://www.fnal.gov/pub/takefive/pdfs/Drill_Press_Speed_Chart.pdf . Learn how to sharpen drill bits or buy a drill doctor. Stay away from motor oil and wd-40, they are lubricants and actually keep a drill from working. Buy a commercial cutting fluid like these: Cutting Oils and Grinding Fluids - Machine Fluids - Grainger Industrial Supply

 

[LD1]

Ditto a 3ph drill run off a VFD for the converter.

Drilling steel with HSS bits rule of thumb is about 80 SFM. (surface feet per minute).

To get that in RPM, (3.8/drill size) x SFM.

So a for a 1/2" bit....

(3.8 / 0.5) x 80 = 600RPM.

A 1" drill bit would want ~300RPM.

BUT.....and this is a big but......this assumes you can feed the drill bit at proper rate as well.

The chip removal is what keeps things cool. Heat is removed from the drill and work piece via the chip.

The problem with alot of the little bench top presses is 1. they really are designed for bits up to 1/2". And 2. IF you do happen to find one that will go down to 200-300 RPM for using bits up-to and over 1"......they just dont have the power to feed at an acceptable rate without stalling. So you end up with too little feed pressure, not removing much material in the way of a chip, and burning up a drill bit.

So if you want or have a bench top model, stick to wood, or bits UNDER 1/2" with it.

Also another little tidbit. Dont step up in size when drilling. IE: if you want a 1" hole...WAY TOO many people think that the proper way is to drill 5 or 6 times. 1/4", then 3/8" then 1/2" then 5/8" then 3/4" ......etc. Drill bits were NOT designed to work like that. They will be very grabby, and you will likely break the outer edges of many bits if you try that. If your 1/2"+ bits are chisel point bits, all you need is a pilot the size of the point. Usually 1/4" does it. Then straight to final size.

And already mentioned, but read chip color. It will tell you everything you need to know. Steel color to a light straw color is good. But if they start getting brown or blue.....you are toasting your bit. It means you ether need LESS rpms, or MORE feed.

 

[al3]

A good way to increase the accuracy of holes without spending a lot of $$ is to invest in a set of center drills (spotters work fine also, just need more). Use them to start your holes; good to make a habit to use on all sizes, especially on anything small (less than say .400) where twist drill point often deflects.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Clamps make for safer and better work.

Look closely at the photo you will see this little 60 year old Duro is cutting a 1" hole using an annular-style cutter with a pilot bit and black plumber's cutting oil.

Pretty much any press will do the job, a lot depends on the set up.

 

[Big Barn]

For cutting fluids I like these two:



The MET-KOOL is my fave but this is the last can from a full case I bought long ago. I keep it for those special cuts.


Chemsearch

Terry