What is the Correct RPM?

[Indian MC]

Ok, I took delivery of my new 2601 almost three years ago.
I asked the driver what RPM to run the tractor at.
He said to nail it every time I took her out. Run the throttle lever at the end from start up until shut down.
She won't over Rev.
Is this true?
What RPM should I run at when just using the loader or Backhoe?

 

[ptsg]

Run whatever RPM you feel comfortable with. Higher RPMs will affect loader and backhoe speed. Sometimes can get a bit touchy and dangerous if there is anyone around you.

You don't need to run wide open all the time. Specially if you're doing light work or just moving a couple of feet.

When running implements that need PTO, just run the PTO RPMs.

Personally, I hate seeing people running the engines wide open, creating extra wear and burning more fuel, just to do something that could be done just over idling RPMs.

I barely go over 2000 RPMs on mine. Only when roading, I'll take it to 2500. I do everything on 540E that puts the engine RPMs at 1800.

 

[mcfarmall]

They say to run tractors equipped with a DPF at wide open all the time or you will plug the DPF. I'm not sure this is a true statement or an old farmers wife's tale.

I don't think the 2601 has a DPF so you can run it at whatever RPM does the job in your application. For PTO work set the engine RPM to the mark on the tach that says 540 PTO or something similar.

You wouldn't run your car with the gas pedal to the floor all the time would you?

 

[Aquamoose]

Just increase the throttle until you notice the machine isn’t working harder and that’s the setting you should work with except for PTO use which you really need to set it at that proper engine RPM to achieve 540 RPM at the PTO.

 

[ovrszd]

I ran my B at 1/3 throttle unless doing PTO work.

 

[Gary Fowler]

For the first few hours on a new tractor it is best to vary the throttle RPM from around 1500 to full throttle on about a 5-10 minute rotation between low RPM and full throttle. This helps to seat the valves and rings better. Also try to load the engine more so than just idling around with no load. Working with a box blade moving heavy load of dirt would work the engine will and you could vary the throttle from high when loading to low when reversing etc.
As for normal work, I rarely run my B26 over 2200 RPM, that is the sweet spot between maximum speed (backhoe use) and minimum engine noise. The engine really gets to screaming at 2600 and stick response is no faster. I will throttle down to almost an idle (1200 ) if I want to finesse the hoe a bit as in tight places that I dont want to damage something.


As a side note: I guess the dealer told my brother in law to run it full throttle on his NEW HOLLAND also. He would be trying to back up to hook to an implement and he would put WOT on. No way could he ease back a couple of inches. I finally had to tell him that if would work better at low RPM, that was after he nearly ran me over as I was attempting to help him hook up to his bush hog.

 

[Paystar]

Only time I run my B2620 (old version of the B2601) at the rated PTO RPM is when I'm snow blowing or mowing, to keep the PTO speed where it needs to be.

For light work I run about 2000 RPM and even box blading I rarely go over 2200 to 2500. I know it has been said full RPM keeps the hydro oil flowing and cooler, but my B seems to like 2000 to or just above. It makes way less hydro whine at those speeds.

 

[s219]

1500-2000rpm for most work. Rev it up to PTO speed for challenging tasks.

 

[rScotty]

Ok, I took delivery of my new 2601 almost three years ago.
I asked the driver what RPM to run the tractor at.
He said to nail it every time I took her out. Run the throttle lever at the end from start up until shut down.
She won't over Rev.
Is this true?
What RPM should I run at when just using the loader or Backhoe?

No, he is wrong. Use it like you would any engine....sometimes slow, sometimes fast.
That said, I don't run any engine at full power until I felt like it was beginning to break in.....listening for how it sounds and watching the temperature gauge.

No, she won't over-rev when you do use full rated power & rpm; there's a governor to prevent over revving.

Just curious, did the driver run his own truck in the manner that he advised?
rScotty

 

[Fallon]

Ok, I took delivery of my new 2601 almost three years ago.
I asked the driver what RPM to run the tractor at.
He said to nail it every time I took her out. Run the throttle lever at the end from start up until shut down.
She won't over Rev.
Is this true?
What RPM should I run at when just using the loader or Backhoe?

It wont over-rev unless something is broken & it wont harm the machine, so he wasn't wrong. He wasnt completely right either.

Running it flat out will give you max hydraulic flow. That makes things operate faster, but if you are trying for smooth or precision that is often to twitchy. Throttle down a bit for more control. Diesel engines in tractors are way detuned from say a truck engine. They will happily run flat out until they die, usually because of something non-engine related. There is a bit more wear, but it's pretty minor. You'll do more damage by not doing regular oil changes & missing maintnance.

The DPF is a filter. All filters plug up as they do their job. The regen cycle burns off the contaminants & unplug the filter. So plugging the filter isnt really a concern, they have a cleaning solution built in for that. The filter will plug faster & require more frequent regens if you lug the machine or run it at low RPMs.

I leave my L4060 at high or max throttle when I'm working (mowing, serious loader work, heading, etc.), which is most of the time. But if I'm just puttering around or doing precision loader work I'll drop it down to half throttle or lower.

 

[Indian MC]

Thanks, It sounds like I'm doing everything right by just varying the RPM's the best way the tractor feels comfortable relating to what I'm doing.
The marking " square orange " block on the RPM gauge around 2900 concerned me.
There's no mention of that mark on the tach in the manual. I thought maybe it was the sweet spot for everyday use.
I don't have any PTO implements, if that is what the mark is for.
Just the FEL and Backhoe for now.
Thanks again,

 

[chim]

Most of my seat time in the warmer months is spent mowing with the RFM. I use whatever engine speed it takes to get the mower to cut well and distribute the clippings nicely. This varies with the condition of the grass. Last night that was around 1700 RPM. I fertilized recently and we've had a lot of rain here so far this Spring. The grass was juicy and fairly dense. As mentioned, with certain operations you need more power from higher revs. Other times you need to slow things down a little to make movements a bit less twitchy.

 

[Fallon]

Thanks, It sounds like I'm doing everything right by just varying the RPM's the best way the tractor feels comfortable relating to what I'm doing.
The marking " square orange " block on the RPM gauge around 2900 concerned me.
There's no mention of that mark on the tach in the manual. I thought maybe it was the sweet spot for everyday use.
I don't have any PTO implements, if that is what the mark is for.
Just the FEL and Backhoe for now.
Thanks again,

Most machines have a mark on the tach. It's the engine RPM that corresponds to the standard 540 RPM on the rear PTO shaft. Usually its somewhere north of 2,000rpm & near the top of the throttle range.

They generally design things so PTO RPM (540) is a little past max torque. That way you are pushing the engine into max strength where it can recover rather than into a condition of less power & ending up stalling easier. It's not that big of a deal for HST machines as you can just ease of the go pedal a hair & keep on going.

 

[CobyRupert]

Most machines have a mark on the tach. It's the engine RPM that corresponds to the standard 540 RPM on the rear PTO shaft. Usually its somewhere north of 2,000rpm & near the top of the throttle range.

They generally design things so PTO RPM (540) is a little past max torque. That way you are pushing the engine into max strength where it can recover rather than into a condition of less power & ending up stalling easier. It's not that big of a deal for HST machines as you can just ease of the go pedal a hair & keep on going.

I was going to say that there's nothing magical about 540 PTO rpm. It's just a number. The only thing special about it is the mark on the tachometer.

However, you make a good point if the engine torque is curved like you say (in relation to PTO rpms) and you need maximum torque, or there's something special (rpm dependent) about the implement (maybe it has a hydraulic pump that needs a certain flow, or blades that need tip speed, air flow, etc...). However most implements don't care as long as your within a wide range, as long as you have the torque to turn them and ground speed is appropriate, and most importantly, you get the results you want.

 

[ptsg]

On my tractor the 540 PTO RPM is set close to the HP peak of the engine (2500 RPM) and the 540E is set at the torque peak (1800 RPM).

 

[wisconsitom]

Bump;. On my 25 horse BobKioti, I've got a forestry skidding winch on the back which runs off pto. My understanding is that 540 revs is max that implement wants to see, not what it needs. It's also my understanding that things get gnarly in a hurry when one goes much above idle when skidding logs! Nor is more throttle typically needed.

Am I wrecking something? I don't know, but running these things at a low idle is commonplace.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

The faster the engine turns, the more hours on the hour meter. 12-1400 is fast as I ever go.

 

[rScotty]

Bump;. On my 25 horse BobKioti, I've got a forestry skidding winch on the back which runs off pto. My understanding is that 540 revs is max that implement wants to see, not what it needs. It's also my understanding that things get gnarly in a hurry when one goes much above idle when skidding logs! Nor is more throttle typically needed.

Am I wrecking something? I don't know, but running these things at a low idle is commonplace.

That's the way I run them too. Low and slow.