What kind of Box Scraper?
- Thread starter GBaume
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jeff9366
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- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
Calculate weight per foot of width for the units under consideration.
Box Blades begin to be penetrate and cut well at 80 pounds per foot of width.
With heavier Box Blades there is less need to fool with frequent Top Link adjustments.
Box Blades begin to be penetrate and cut well at 80 pounds per foot of width.
With heavier Box Blades there is less need to fool with frequent Top Link adjustments.
New to Forums and blogs and everything else to do with this computer. I need some opinions or help. I Have a Kubota L3200 tractor. Rear tire weight is 58 - 58 and a qtr. It weighs with the loader about 3400 pounds. Should I get a 6 foot box blade or a 5 ft. 6 inch box blade. The latter will have to be ordered as no one stocks them. I am looking at a 6 foot heavy duty model that weighs 531 pounds. Would a 6 footer be to much for my tractor?
Thanks
Thanks
mangler
Gold Member
I have a Woods BSM72P on my Kioti CK2610 (similar weight to your tractor). I wanted to make sure I could cover my tire width. It's heavy(680lbs), so it makes for decent ballast also. To be honest when full it is a bit much for my 25HP, and that is in soil. Rocks would probably stall it. I just take smaller cuts and it is fine, staying with roughly a half box of material. I I wanted to max it out a 5' would have been good, a 5'6" a bit too large. It all depends what you want to do.
/pine
Super Star Member
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The length if the top link adjusts the aggressiveness of the cutting edges moving both backward and forward...The overall weight if the box blade determines the overall effectiveness of the cutting edges...
A top link adjusted to make the blade cut going forward will continue to cut until the top link is readjusted...the weight of the box blade has no effect on that aspect...a heavier blade will just cut faster...
To move a box full of material and not continue to cut (fill the box) the top link needs to be adjusted to a neutral position...
I don’t think you would want much over 5’ with your tractor weight and HP. That being said a blade narrower than the tractor is frustrating. Can you adjust your rear wheel width to make it narrower?
If your rear wheels are 58” wide I don’t think 1” sticking out on each side will be that big of a deal unless you are trying to make a deep cut or something.
If your rear wheels are 58” wide I don’t think 1” sticking out on each side will be that big of a deal unless you are trying to make a deep cut or something.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
I think i would go with a 5 foot. They are pretty simple. Look for cutting edges and the beefier the build the better. This is one item not to cheap out on. A good sturdy used one is way better than a lightweight shiny new one.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Much also depends on the soil/material you'll be [primarily] working with.
Hydraulic top-links are a must! If you can get a good bite then, as the box fills, you can get plenty of weight to help cut. When I was digging up sod with my 7' box blade it would literally roll the sod up on top of itself, thus adding a LOT more weight (think of tractor pulls!).
Look for strength. I had a massively stout 5' box blade on my B7800 that I was never able to damage (except break a scarifier- operator error, popping roots with the scarifiers all the way down!). Strength will translate into weight. BUT, IMO, weight isn't necessarily the thing that makes box blades work, though it helps; it's the ability to get the blade to cut; once it's starting to cut it'll dig in. At 1,150 lbs my 7' box blade has bounced/skipped up due to hitting rocks
Hydraulic top-links are a must! If you can get a good bite then, as the box fills, you can get plenty of weight to help cut. When I was digging up sod with my 7' box blade it would literally roll the sod up on top of itself, thus adding a LOT more weight (think of tractor pulls!).
Look for strength. I had a massively stout 5' box blade on my B7800 that I was never able to damage (except break a scarifier- operator error, popping roots with the scarifiers all the way down!). Strength will translate into weight. BUT, IMO, weight isn't necessarily the thing that makes box blades work, though it helps; it's the ability to get the blade to cut; once it's starting to cut it'll dig in. At 1,150 lbs my 7' box blade has bounced/skipped up due to hitting rocks
CoyPatton
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1 point that has not been addressed in the weight comparison issue is the grade of steel. Modern production processes have allowed for lighter steels to be much stronger than other steels. This general comes with a price premium and thus will be pointed out.
Weight is a factor in the effectiveness of a BB, but only 1 factor.
While older implements tend to be heavier, they tend to not be quick hitch compatible without at least some modifying being done. This may or may not be important to you.
Lots of good info in other comments, but one last caution is to watch your implement and try to avoid abuse, it is hard on your implement and your tractor.
Weight is a factor in the effectiveness of a BB, but only 1 factor.
While older implements tend to be heavier, they tend to not be quick hitch compatible without at least some modifying being done. This may or may not be important to you.
Lots of good info in other comments, but one last caution is to watch your implement and try to avoid abuse, it is hard on your implement and your tractor.
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