What kind of gravel for driveway?

[coobie]

You may want to consider crushed asphalt if it is available. It is usually cheaper than crushed stone and holds up as well or better, it actually has a higher structural number than crushed limestone. It also creates less dust and tracks less than crushed stone.


Jeff

I could not agree more with the crushed asphalt.We live down a private road(self maintience)we put down crushed asphalt,1 mile worth of it.The road is now in excellent condition,we spead the asphalt about 4-5 inches thick.This is the second year it has been down.IMHO its hard to beat.I would also check into Slag that comes out of steel plants as my second choice.coobie

 

[just_sawing]

1 Cut organic material from where drive is going to be.

1. 
   
   Place 5 and 7s down to grade level.
   IF you have marsh area or spot place broke stone down then 5/7 over wet areas
   pack down then cap with crush and run

This is a permenent road for use. It is more detailed but done this way you won't have to go back in a couple of years.
I really like the barrier cloth but if there isn't a base below top soil and organic it is hampered but is a good alternitive if you can't afford the right way.

 

[patrick_g]

Crushed limestone from a specific screen size on down to dust is what is called crusher run in these parts. It includes all the fines. This packs down to almost cement-like consistency. It is long lasting and makes a good surface with good attention to grade detail and crowning. With significant standing water in concavities it can soften in time. With soft ground, 2 1/2 inch or larger crushed limestone can be put down first to make a base.

Various geotextiles can be used to good effect to help stabilize the base in problem areas.

Recycled asphalt can sometimes be had for a good price and can be compacted down well and is relatively water resistant when well packed.

I use shale near the house as it is more aesthetically pleasing in color, packs extremely well, and doesn't track into the house. It sheds water well when nicely packed. The shale I get has some really large (greater than 5 inch) lumps in it. Shale is easy on the tires and breaks up quickly with even light traffic, soon taking on the surface consistency similar to black top only better.

Pat

 

[ray66v]

With significant standing water in concavities it can soften in time. With soft ground, 2 1/2 inch or larger crushed limestone can be put down first to make a base.

Pat

That is why I stopped using the large stone as a base, it ends up with voids that hold water so the stone sinks in to the mud, (no matter how big it is), and defeats the purpose. You don't need #1's & #2's with the fabric anyway.

#411 or #304 have good sized stone (#3's or #4's?) and the sand and dust mixed in. It will fill all the voids when you place and compact it properly. And its easier and faster. Ever try to rake #1's or #2's?

I know it "feels" better to put down the BIG stuff. Believe me, if you do it right, you don't need it.

 

[flINTLOCK]

Asphault millings work great. Easy to spread. Pack well. Nice surface.

 

[Mark_G]

I read once that old carpet works great as a geo-textile. Not a wool carpet but the poly based stuff. There are tons of it thrown out all the time. As I recall you put the shag side down. THe backing has holes so it does drain. Modern carpet is usually recycled plastic, so its tough and doesn't break down. Put gravel layers/crusher run on top.

Mark

 

[jayhaitch]

I just put in a 60x12 driveway addition and extended my parking pad another 15x50 ft. The local aggregates dealer recommended 2" down limestone. I drove over it a bunch, thinking it was well packed. A week of regular rain, and big ruts are present when driving my 3/4 ton Dodge over it. I'll have to regrade it and rent a compacter. The dealer recommended waiting till fall or even till next summer, then top with 3/4" down limestone. Our driveway is 3 years old, put in by a contractor with a track dozer, also 2" down base, but 3/4 clean top. Hasn't sunk an inch. Only now are tire tracks visible needing an inch of more 3/4 clean.

 

[ray66v]

I read once that old carpet works great as a geo-textile. Not a wool carpet but the poly based stuff. There are tons of it thrown out all the time. As I recall you put the shag side down. THe backing has holes so it does drain. Modern carpet is usually recycled plastic, so its tough and doesn't break down. Put gravel layers/crusher run on top.

Mark

I can see were that would work, although wet carpet tends to get moldy and stinky. And where do you get enough carpet?

Another trick I used with Geo-tex fabric is, throw some asphalt shingles on top of the fabric to keep the wind from blowing it around while putting down the gravel.

 

[patrick_g]

Mark, Excellent idea. Old polyolefin, polyester, or nylon carpet should last a good long time, especially if the backing is also man made material.

So far as mold goes... I don't think it would matter much under several inches of gravel. Not sure why plastic carpet should be a bigger mold problem than plastic geotextile.

Where to find old carpet? Well if you can't find enough piled beside the street to be hauled away on trash day then make contact with some carpet laying crews. These guys have to remove and replace carpet all the time and disposing of the carpet is not their favorite thing.

Maybe a well placed six pack here or there or just a few civil questions would net you all the used carpet you could want. I'd check with carpet stores which sometimes have their own crews but typically sub to freelance installers to get the phone numbers of some crews.

Wanna get really lazy? Maybe you could offer a price per yard delivered to your site.

Pat

 

[mwb]

I didn't read all the posts here so you may have been told already... the common name for road building gravel is 'granular A', basically 5/8 minus stone.

If you have the option have a belly dump deliver it - makes spreading really easy!

Cheers,
Mike