What kind of trailer?

[Highbeam]

I just took some pics on Friday.

I tow with my half ton chevy but that doesn't mean I need to limit the trailer's strength to the truck's strength. Buy the trailer to allow for safety margin and future uses.

The trailer pictured is a PJtrailer, 18' deck including 2' dovetail, ramps slide in from the side, recessed rubber mounted lights, 2-5/16" ball, 6" channel frame and full tongue, dual braked 5200 lb dexter axles, e-rated tires, empty weight of 2500#s. Cost was like 2700 plus the tax and licensing jive. The trailer is actually wider than 8' overall which takes some getting used to. I am very happy with the quality.

I haul that 4000# tractor plus an implement 80 miles round trip on weekends. Total trailer weight is about 7000 lbs.

 

[Highbeam]

Be sure to use the weight distribution hitch as required by your truck. Most trucks unless you have the goofy 2.5" receiver require the WD system after a measly 500 lbs of tongue weight. I find it helps with even the empty trailer.

 

[Highbeam]

The arse end. Note the way that the lights are recessed and totally protected. Also, the diamond plate fenders are removeable, replaceable, and look sharp IMO. I carry a full size spare in the truck bed until I can find time to mount it to the trailer somehow.

I have also hauled a 65 Pontiac Tempest station wagon from central oregon with this rig and it is very pleasant to have a nice overbuilt trailer.

Oh, the dexter axles are the EZlube type that you are supposed to be able to lube effectively with a grease gun. Not sure I would depend on that method. I have had no trouble but I wouldn't pay extra for it.

The next step down in trailers was a site built type that saved about 1000$ but was way, way, lower in quality of welds, paint, components etc. A step up makes a big difference.

 

[Joe1]

Rick:

That trailer has only a 4,500 GVW and has to weigh close to 1,000 lbs empty. That only leaves 3,500 lbs capacity. I don't know what a 4010 weighs and what attachments you have on it, but it doesn't seem like much extra capacity, particularly if you have a Loader and some sort of rear implement or weights, plus ramps to load with and any other equipment you might want to add later.

 

[RickS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Rick:

That trailer has only a 4,500 GVW and has to weigh close to 1,000 lbs empty. That only leaves 3,500 lbs capacity. I don't know what a 4010 weighs and what attachments you have on it, but it doesn't seem like much extra capacity, particularly if you have a Loader and some sort of rear implement or weights, plus ramps to load with and any other equipment you might want to add later. )</font>

The 4010 weighs about 1500, loaded rear tires are 300, 410 FEL is about 775, and I have the box blade on which is about 400. That is 2975 lbs if I guessed correctly. Hmmm, you're right, that is cutting it close.

How do they figure the GVW? The trailer has two 3500# axles and weighs 800#. Wouldn't that give it a GVW of 6200#? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Does it have to do with the weight rating on the tires or is it a frame issue?

 

[Joe1]

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is just that, the Maximum weight of the trailer it self and its load. The GVW is determined by a lot factors including frame strength, spring ratings, axle and tire ratings, hitch rating, etc. A trailer with a 4,500 lb GVW that weighs 800 lbs could in theory carry 3,700 lbs.

If you add a bush hog to your tractor and carry the box blade
separately, a few tools and some fuel, you could easily exceed the 4,500 lbs.

The 7,000 lb rating your talking about for the two 3,500 lb axles is Gross Axle Rating. The actual axle rating might be less depending on the capacity of the tires.

4,500 lbs GVWR sounds kind of light for that trailer, especially with two 3,500 lb axles. I'll bet that it's GVWR is limited because of two things (1) single axle brakes and (2) B range tires. Remembr,that trailer is only 60's wide. You couldn't carry a 5' bush hog on it. Even if you don't have one now, you might need the extra width and extra capacity in the future.

There is an old saying that if it's heavy enough to need 4 wheels, it's heavy enough to need 4 brakes. Adding brakes to an axle when you buy the trailer shouldn't be too expensive.

I would check with them for a similar trailer, with Load range D tires and brakes on both axles, plus possibly a 6' wide trailer. The cost for the 5' wide trailer with heavy tires and brakes will be suprizingly little more than the one you show and will make for a much better trailer.

I have a single axle 6 X 10 from the same manufacturer with one 3,500 lb axle. It has a GVW of 2,998 lbs. That's because I do not have brakes on the trailer. They would have rated it higher with brakes. It is a whole lot wider than the Cherokee I tow it with.

I don't tow it a lot or with a heavy load, but if I do, I'll probably add brakes.

By the way, Gross Combined Weight Rating for your truck is the weight the truck can handle and includes the truck, the driver, passengers, cargo in the truck, trailer and cargo in the trailer. Just some more trivia for you.

I noted that the 60SP advertized on that web site you show has 4 wheel brakes and a 6,000 GVW. It is also 77" wide, which is a lot wider than you wanted.

You might find a good used trailer to fill your needs for a good price.

Good luck in your purchase.

 

[RickS]

Thanks, Joe. Great information. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Joe1]

One thing I forgot to mention. Adding Brakes and or upgrading tires does not change the GVWR. That is set by the Factory.

Whatever you get for a trailer, a good weight distribution hitch will help your Ford handle the load more evenly and will aid in stability. At least 10 - 12% of the total load should be on the tongue, should eliminate any sway. If not, a sway controller will do wonders. Also keeping the tires evenly inflated from side to side is critical.

Enjoy it.