What Model Hydraulic Post Driver

[SLeBard]

I am looking for some recommendations on what size and model Hydraulic Post Driver I would need to drive railroad track into the ground 36"-42". The track will be 10' in lenght and weighs about 170lbs each. It is approximately 4"Wx4"H and I-Beam shaped with the top narrower but heavier thicker metal. I have a Kubota L3010 - 32HP 4WD w/backhoe and loader.
Thanks

 

[Bird]

SLeBard, you might want to check http://www.danuser.com. I guess you'll have to decide whether you want one powered by the tractor hydraulics, or whether you want a PTO powered one. I got their literature and it sure appears that the MD-H1 (hydraulic) or MD-6 (PTO) would be nice to have, but too expensive for me. However, it appears that 100" may be maximum height for driving posts and you're talking about 120" so I don't know whether they have what you need or not.

Bird

 

[dullpain]

Out of curiosity I ordered some literature from King Hitter. Received brochures & Video. Looks like a good product. They make 3 or 4 different models.

Sharon Wilbourn, Sales Exec., Fort Worth Tx. 817-367-0133

Or 1-888-KINGHIT EMAIL IS - fairbrotherind@hotmail.com


Web site is www.fairbrotherind.com

 

[art]

Checked the two brands we sell and neither say your tractor will handle the driver needed to drive the rail. The Worksaver says 60hp min. and ways 1600lbs. The Shaver needs 15gpm. hyd and I think about a comperable hp.

 

[patton]

I have to ask:
What the *&%# are you building? A rhino pen?

I've seen bota's your size drive T or U posts, but nothing close to railroad track. If you don't bevel the end, it will take an unbelievable amount of force. The bevel needs to be on both sides (ie spear), rather than one side (ie chisel) to make it drive straight.

Pat

 

[Bird]

Pat, I think you'd be right if you were talking about trying to drive a post in the ground with a big hammer, but they won't need to be beveled to drive them in with the kind of tractor powered post driver this thread is talking about./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I've driven railroad ties through asphalt with a shaver HD12 for 10 years.

 

[MikePA]

Bird,

Do you still have the literature? If so, how much was the PTO driven model?

 

[cowboydoc]

I agree with Art. When I was looking the only one out there that would work on my tractor and drive a 10' post was the worksaver 20 model. My tractor is larger than yours and worksaver said my tractor was very marginal to mount it on. They were right. I can work it ok but I sure wouldn't want to go any smaller than what I have. I would say you would have to go with the 16 model or the shaver 8. I had the the shaver 8 and it was great but it didn't drive 10 foot posts or as fast as this one. Danuser has one I looked at as well but again the model that my tractor would run only drove up to 9' post.

 

[DocHeb]

Other sites to look at for post drivers, with varying specs:

http://www.bergenindustries.com/ht/post.html

http://www.diggerdriver.com/fencing_equipment.html

http://www.fairbrotherind.com/

http://www.shavermfg.com/driversspecs.htm

http://www.ellisequipment.com/whdriver.html

http://www.worksaver.com/product/hpd.html

 

[cowboydoc]

Also look at www.danuser.com

 

[Bird]

Mike, I do still have the literature, but it doesn't have prices. The letter they sent with it included the name, address, and phone number of the nearest dealer. And I don't remember what the price was; just that when I called and they quoted a price, it was high enough to make me go instantly deaf and my mind go blank./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I found some pricing at www.easternfarmmachinery.com on shaver and danuser drivers.

 

[Bird]

Mike, Dank found the information; $2,675.40 for the Danuser MD6, PTO powered post driver. I think that's about the same as the price I got from a local dealer.

Bird

 

[MikePA]

A little too rich for my blood...actually, alot too rich! Sigh /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif.

 

[Bird]

Me, too, Mike; gotta build a lot of fence to pay for one of those.

Bird

 

[MikePA]

I believe everyone's recommendation that driving the posts is the way to go, but paying a $1,100 premium over a PHD ($1,800 WorkSaver vs $700 LandPride) is a tall hurdle for me. The driver can only drive posts/stakes whereas a PHD could be used for other things. Decisions, decisions.

My next step is to see if I can find someone to drive the posts in for me then I will put the rails up.

 

[JerryG]

Does anyone have a Danuser MD6?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I just bought the Worksaver 16. Here's some things I learned making my choice: Shaver is the classic model that everyone around me seems to use. Worksaver is a knock off, though in some folk's opinion a better product. It's less expensive, plus it comes with legs and the special return hose (unlike Shaver I believe). The Danuser is pricey, and note that you adjust the fore and aft with the toplink, as opposed to the Worksaver, which has fore/aft and right/left adjusters built in. The Danuser PTO-driven model would certainly make life simpler. I had to make serveral trips to the store and spent a lot of time screwing around getting my hydraulic driver working correctly.

You can get the Worksaver 16 for around 1,800 if you look around. If like me you need to get a diverter valve, figure on spending another $100-$200 including all the fittings you will need.

Think twice about how valuable your time is if you are thinking about going with an auger -- setting posts by tamping takes a really long time in order to do a good job.

 

[MikePA]

<font color=blue>Think twice about how valuable your time is if you are thinking about going with an auger -- setting posts by tamping takes a really long time in order to do a good job.</font color=blue>

Every time I think twice, the first thought is what implement I need to buy. The second thought is prompted by my wallet tapping me on my shoulder. There's an inverse relationship between money and work & time. As work & time decrease usually the money leaving your wallet goes up.

Decreasing Time and Increasing Costs
1. Dig post holes by hand with a shovel.
2. Dig holes with a hand PHD.
3. Dig holes with a tractor PHD.
4. Set posts with a driver.
5. Hire someone to set the posts.
6. Hire someone to install the fence.

It's all where you fall on the Work/Time/Money line.

Someone said they struck a compromise by using a PHD to drill a 4" hole and then used the FEL to set a 4" x 6" post.

What do all of you think about that solution?