What motor oil for '47 Deere model A? Non-detergent?

[rScotty]

So all I need now is to find a non-existent pattern.
View attachment 778011

Well, you probably don't want to use the original part as the pattern anyway. It might not work so well. Wrong draft and all.
I think a patternmaker would measure it & then go make a wooden pattern
Some woodworkers used to make patterns as a side business.
It would be fun to try.

Many years ago my buddy and I made up some sailboat part patterns to be cast in bronze and some two-bladed prop patterns which were cast in aluminum.

But back to the non-detergent question. What oil do you use in the old Brockway? Has that changed over the years?

rScotty

 

[DLTrekkers]

I have learned that a newer oil covers the older ones specs aswell !

 

[tom3]

Newer oils are designed to run in newer engines. Coated pistons, low tension rings, tight exact clearances, roller tappets, oil controlled variable valve timing and displacement on demand, cat. converters, sensors, etc.etc. Those old motors need basic gut busting lubrication. I'd run the non-detergent as specified.

 

[Cougsfan]

Non-detergent oils tend to carry contaminants in solution and remove the contaminants from the engine with an oil change. That's both good and bad. Its good because is reduces sludge build-up in engines (if you change your oil frequently), but bad in that it reduces the lubricating quality of the oil significantly as it becomes dirty or if you don't change your oil frequently. Detergent oils actually form a type of sludge that is removed by the filter.

What I have been told is that if that old engine has a paper style oil filter it is fine to use detergent oil. If the old engine is full of sludge from setting or a history of infrequent oil changes, you might be better off not to use detergent oil, as it may wash away an excessive amount of that built up sludge into circulation. If, on an old, engine you have torn it apart and cleaned it and re-assembled it, there is little doubt modern detergent oils would be a better choice. Babbitt bearings do fine with synthetic or non-synthetic detergent oils.

If you convert from non-detergent to detergent on an old dirty engine you may want to increase the frequency of oil filter changes significantly for the first few changes.

Modern small engines (lawn mowers etc) do fine with detergent oil.

 

[RalphVa]

Non-detergent oils tend to carry contaminants in solution and remove the contaminants from the engine with an oil change. That's both good and bad. Its good because is reduces sludge build-up in engines (if you change your oil frequently), but bad in that it reduces the lubricating quality of the oil significantly as it becomes dirty or if you don't change your oil frequently. Detergent oils actually form a type of sludge that is removed by the filter.

What I have been told is that if that old engine has a paper style oil filter it is fine to use detergent oil. If the old engine is full of sludge from setting or a history of infrequent oil changes, you might be better off not to use detergent oil, as it may wash away an excessive amount of that built up sludge into circulation. If, on an old, engine you have torn it apart and cleaned it and re-assembled it, there is little doubt modern detergent oils would be a better choice. Babbitt bearings do fine with synthetic or non-synthetic detergent oils.

If you convert from non-detergent to detergent on an old dirty engine you may want to increase the frequency of oil filter changes significantly for the first few changes.

Modern small engines (lawn mowers etc) do fine with detergent oil.

Not true. Non detergent oils would just let the contaminants drop into the oil pan. Bunches could be sucked up on occasion by the oil pump.

 

[Tinhack]

Not true. Non detergent oils would just let the contaminants drop into the oil pan. Bunches could be sucked up on occasion by the oil pump.

Oh contrares. Most didn't have oil pumps. They were splash lubricated and didn't have filters. Non detergent oil let contaminants settle to the bottom. It was a good design for the old, mass-produced Fords from 1903-1927. Many are still driven today. I have a 1925 Touring.

 

[sixdogs]

I have a secondary question that I'd like to ask.

Should I use 80W90 or 85-140 for a 1947 Farmall C parade tractor? It's only used in warm weather and only for parades. My thinking is that it would leak out slower with the thicker oil.

Anyone have any experience to thoughts oni this?

 

[tom3]

That transmission might have brass bushings in it and there have been many comments that newer GL5 lubes are not good for these because the additives can damage the brass. I went to our old NAPA shop, raided their attic, and found some old 90wt gear lube for the Troy Bilt tiller. Might do some research on this? I'm sure no expert. Tractor Supply might have some early spec lube?

 

[Joe Hickerson]

That transmission might have brass bushings in it and there have been many comments that newer GL5 lubes are not good for these because the additives can damage the brass. I went to our old NAPA shop, raided their attic, and found some old 90wt gear lube for the Troy Bilt tiller. Might do some research on this? I'm sure no expert. Tractor Supply might have some early spec lube?

Brass is apparently "happy" with the GL-4 spec and can be found in some marine gearcase lube.....

 

[sixdogs]

That transmission might have brass bushings in it and there have been many comments that newer GL5 lubes are not good for these because the additives can damage the brass. I went to our old NAPA shop, raided their attic, and found some old 90wt gear lube for the Troy Bilt tiller. Might do some research on this? I'm sure no expert. Tractor Supply might have some early spec lube?

Back when I had some tractors and a Troybilt with brass bushings and fear of the new G5 gear oil, I researched this thoroughly. As I recall, it was only the original batches of new GL5 that was the problem. The second generation, that came out not long after the first generation was discovered to affect brass bushings. So I feel safe with what's out there but will check again.

Another popular alternative back in the day of these concerns was synthetic gear oil since it contained none of the brass impacting additives. It's cost prohibitive but that's another story.

Still another alternative was to use "mineral oil" and it's considered GL1. TSC and Rural King carry it, or used to. I used this in my 8N Ford since the new generation of GL5 oils was not invented yet. If your owner's manual specs it, you can use it but I don't here there is any issue at all with newly made GL5 oils.