What rod is which?

[AlanB]

The 7018 will close itself up and basicly the slag or glass will roll over the end of the rod after the first run, when you go to restart the rod you need to tap it forcefully to break that slag off the tip and allow the arc to initiate.

7018 is very moisture sensitive. I would pitch old 7018.

Most 7018 is for DC, you will find it a harder rod to run then either the 6011 or the 6013. (I was wrong on this, my apologies, again best to go back and read the specs, although I was always taught to run it on DC it is rated as an AC rod as well.)

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/consumableseries.asp?browse=104|2030|

If you are learning I would suggest strongly either spend some time in a Vo-tech or with another welder burning rods. Or just spend some time on your own burning rods. I would burn some 6011 and just do an hour or two a day for a bit till you develop some proficency. It really helps to have someone look over your shoulder occassionally and tell you what is going wrong, but you can just do it through trial and error.

Mad Ref and I disagree on this point, and I certainly respect his opinion, but I would buy high quality rod to weld with. I personally like Lincoln. I always feel that if I am doing the work / labor myself, I can afford to run the best I can get. Kind of have everything you can working for you and eliminate as many of the variables as possible.

Last time I was in Lowes I think I saw a Robert Finch book on welding. His and Ron Fourniers stuff is excellent, straight forward, easy to use and apply in the shop stuff that you will flip too again and again. About $15 and that is cheap for the amount of info you will gain from it.

Good luck, hope it works out well for you.

 

[RobJ]

My 7018 rod is all clearly marked 7018AC where the other rod does not specify AC leading me to believe that there must be a DC 7018 out there with some quality that makes it less suitable for AC welding.

Very true..I got some 7018 DC rods (not marked) and they popped, stuck, no fun at all. Got some Hobart 7018AC (as mentioned AC on the rod). Worked great. I also think the 70xx give a better weld. But in my bend I have 6011(welding crap), 6013(maybe best all round) 7014(reall nice and easy to weld) and 7018.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...Most 7018 is for DC, you will find it a harder rod to run then either the 6011 or the 6013...

I've checked the new rod that I bought and it specifically states that it is AC. The brand is Forney.

I have noticed the "Hollow end" phenomenon that was mentioned, but early on I started flaking the extra flux of with my welding glove. There was no working with it otherwise.

One thing I have noticed is that the bead from a 7018 rod takes longer to solidify. Maybe there is some principle to it that I need to grasp yet.

From the sound of things, though, it sounds like I'll wait a while before I just give up completely on 7018 rod. It sounds like it's a little harder to use but puts out a really good weld. More practice.

 

[diggerjim]

I popped into a pipe welding class after taking combo welding. Almost bit off more than I could chew, anyway I learned that 7018 gives a very strong weld. I broke the front spindle on my case hoe, actually rebroke an old weld glob job. Cleaned it up and welded it like pipe, I think I used 6011 for the first pass and filled it with 7018 over and over. 2 and 1/2 years later and still holding.

Just as a side note I have 15+ years experience in Industrial Maintenance but very little personal experience welding. I do know you have to burn to learn and the key to a good weld is 3 things, preperation, preperation, preperation.......just my .02

 

[MadReferee]

Just as a side note I have 15+ years experience in Industrial Maintenance but very little personal experience welding. I do know you have to burn to learn and the key to a good weld is 3 things, preperation, preperation, preperation.......just my .02

Very good.

Most amateurs usually say penetration, penetration, penetration. But good penetration always comes from good preparation.

 

[Highbeam]

You must get the metal in the mood.....

 

[kossetx]

It is funny. I just saw an add for a welder (actually, for 69 of them) for a shipyard in Houston. The requirements were that the welder must be able to weld 3/4" plate with both 6011 and 7018 rods in both vertical and overhead positions.

That should tell us something about these 2 rods.

 

[Highbeam]

Can you imagine running a puddle with enough heat to weld 3/4" plate overhead? Better have good boots.

 

[GaryE]

Can you imagine running a puddle with enough heat to weld 3/4" plate overhead? Better have good boots.

It really is not that bad! You just better be wearing a good jacket or you end up with splatter down you arms and the front of your shirt!

Gary

 

[RobJ]

It really is not that bad! You just better be wearing a good jacket or you end up with splatter down you arms and the front of your shirt!

Gary

I would think the only way is grind out a chamfer and weld in several filling passes.