What should I look for? AC clutch dropping out.

[ns_in_tex]

Change clutch.

R134a on reply #9, thought it may be a wide air gap in clutch.
Today we did more checking & found the gap to be .050". We think it may supposed to be .014 - .024". Just thinking this would be cheap fix if so.
Could not get clutch off today without clutch removal tool & stores are closed. Found online a Mastercool Tool 91122, but not sure if it is the one for our Denso compressor 10P08E. Will try some more tomorrow.

 

[number two]

I have to believe a guy with a username of R134a is really into A/C work,and we should value his insight!
Good Luck!

 

[R134a]

I have to believe a guy with a username of R134a is really into A/C work,and we should value his insight!
Good Luck!

R134a on reply #9, thought it may be a wide air gap in clutch.
Today we did more checking & found the gap to be .050". We think it may supposed to be .014 - .024". Just thinking this would be cheap fix if so.
Could not get clutch off today without clutch removal tool & stores are closed. Found online a Mastercool Tool 91122, but not sure if it is the one for our Denso compressor 10P08E. Will try some more tomorrow.

The gap is too wide. I forgot to tell you... When the clutch quits pulling in & it is energized, take a hammer and give it a TAP. Bet it works. Just a tap, not swinging for the fence !

 

[34Willys]

I've dealt with this in the past, and I believe R134a is correct about the clutch gap is too wide.
I've even replaced the relay with a test switch to assure voltage wasn't dropping out and while monitoring voltage and pressures with a VOM and hooked up to AC machine, the clutch would disengage. I had a wood dowel that I would press against the clutch and would reengage for a while, then release. I wouldn't use a hammer, but that's just me.
As for the spacers, some were one thick shim that I would just sand down a few .001s.
Be careful not to make the gap too small or you may get a rubbing when disengaged.
It doesn't take much of an excessive gap to cause this problem.
Good luck.

Patrick

 

[ns_in_tex]

R134a on reply #9, thought it may be a wide air gap in clutch.
Today we did more checking & found the gap to be .050". We think it may supposed to be .014 - .024". Just thinking this would be cheap fix if so.
Could not get clutch off today without clutch removal tool & stores are closed. Found online a Mastercool Tool 91122, but not sure if it is the one for our Denso compressor 10P08E. Will try some more tomorrow.

Went to AutoZone today & they loaned me 2 tools. Both were to large to screw into the inside of the pulley, by maybe .015". Have not been able to determine if the Mastercool Tool 91122 or maybe ME91122 will work on our L4610 Kubota or not. Does anyone have a tool Brand/Number that they know will work on this Denso 10P08E compressor?

 

[number two]

How does the clutch gap get out-of-spec?
Bad comp clutch bearing,bad comp shaft bearing,no bolt holding clutch assy to comp shaft?
Just wondering?
Thanks for reading!

 

[dstig1]

How does the clutch gap get out-of-spec?
Bad comp clutch bearing,bad comp shaft bearing,no bolt holding clutch assy to comp shaft?
Just wondering?
Thanks for reading!

Just simple wear. A clutch like this is a friction disc like a clutch in a manual transmission or brake pads for that matter. Over time the friction material wears down and the gap gets too large to pull in.

 

[Doug Vee]

Just simple wear. A clutch like this is a friction disc like a clutch in a manual transmission or brake pads for that matter. Over time the friction material wears down and the gap gets too large to pull in.

My 2001 F350 diesel was exhibiting the same symptoms. I checked the air gap and it was too wide. I watched a YouTube video on the subject and the trick was to shim the clutch to bring the air gap back in spec. That was probably almost 4 years ago. Still working great. Clutch will definitely need replaced one day, but not now anyway.

Doug

 

[34Willys]

I don't remember needing any special tools to remove the plate, only to remove the clutch and coil assembly. You do have to energise the coil to hold the plate to the clutch, and then you can use the drive belt tension to hold the shaft and loosen the bolt or nut that holds the plate to the shaft. Then, carefully remove the plate and catch the shim(s) that are located behind it's extension.
Your's may be more complicated though.?

Patrick

 

[ns_in_tex]

I don't remember needing any special tools to remove the plate, only to remove the clutch and coil assembly. You do have to energise the coil to hold the plate to the clutch, and then you can use the drive belt tension to hold the shaft and loosen the bolt or nut that holds the plate to the shaft. Then, carefully remove the plate and catch the shim(s) that are located behind it's extension.
Your's may be more complicated though.?

Patrick

We were able get the nut off the clutch, but could not get the clutch to slide off. Was afraid would damage clutch if pried to hard. I have been trying for days to find the proper clutch removal tool for this Kubota with Denso 10P08E compressor, But have been unsuccessful. Today, we broke down & ordered a Mastercool 91212 tool, Hoping it fits.
I think the critical part is male thread that screws into the female clutch thread.
The 91212 shows to have a M22-1.5 pitch.
Here is hoping.