What should I look for? AC clutch dropping out.

[ns_in_tex]

Change clutch.

R134a on reply #9, thought it may be a wide air gap in clutch.
Today we did more checking & found the gap to be .050". We think it may supposed to be .014 - .024". Just thinking this would be cheap fix if so.
Could not get clutch off today without clutch removal tool & stores are closed. Found online a Mastercool Tool 91122, but not sure if it is the one for our Denso compressor 10P08E. Will try some more tomorrow.

 

[number two]

I have to believe a guy with a username of R134a is really into A/C work,and we should value his insight!
Good Luck!

 

[R134a]

I have to believe a guy with a username of R134a is really into A/C work,and we should value his insight!
Good Luck!

R134a on reply #9, thought it may be a wide air gap in clutch.
Today we did more checking & found the gap to be .050". We think it may supposed to be .014 - .024". Just thinking this would be cheap fix if so.
Could not get clutch off today without clutch removal tool & stores are closed. Found online a Mastercool Tool 91122, but not sure if it is the one for our Denso compressor 10P08E. Will try some more tomorrow.

The gap is too wide. I forgot to tell you... When the clutch quits pulling in & it is energized, take a hammer and give it a TAP. Bet it works. Just a tap, not swinging for the fence !

 

[34Willys]

I've dealt with this in the past, and I believe R134a is correct about the clutch gap is too wide.
I've even replaced the relay with a test switch to assure voltage wasn't dropping out and while monitoring voltage and pressures with a VOM and hooked up to AC machine, the clutch would disengage. I had a wood dowel that I would press against the clutch and would reengage for a while, then release. I wouldn't use a hammer, but that's just me.
As for the spacers, some were one thick shim that I would just sand down a few .001s.
Be careful not to make the gap too small or you may get a rubbing when disengaged.
It doesn't take much of an excessive gap to cause this problem.
Good luck.

Patrick

 

[ns_in_tex]

R134a on reply #9, thought it may be a wide air gap in clutch.
Today we did more checking & found the gap to be .050". We think it may supposed to be .014 - .024". Just thinking this would be cheap fix if so.
Could not get clutch off today without clutch removal tool & stores are closed. Found online a Mastercool Tool 91122, but not sure if it is the one for our Denso compressor 10P08E. Will try some more tomorrow.

Went to AutoZone today & they loaned me 2 tools. Both were to large to screw into the inside of the pulley, by maybe .015". Have not been able to determine if the Mastercool Tool 91122 or maybe ME91122 will work on our L4610 Kubota or not. Does anyone have a tool Brand/Number that they know will work on this Denso 10P08E compressor?

 

[number two]

How does the clutch gap get out-of-spec?
Bad comp clutch bearing,bad comp shaft bearing,no bolt holding clutch assy to comp shaft?
Just wondering?
Thanks for reading!

 

[dstig1]

How does the clutch gap get out-of-spec?
Bad comp clutch bearing,bad comp shaft bearing,no bolt holding clutch assy to comp shaft?
Just wondering?
Thanks for reading!

Just simple wear. A clutch like this is a friction disc like a clutch in a manual transmission or brake pads for that matter. Over time the friction material wears down and the gap gets too large to pull in.

 

[Doug Vee]

Just simple wear. A clutch like this is a friction disc like a clutch in a manual transmission or brake pads for that matter. Over time the friction material wears down and the gap gets too large to pull in.

My 2001 F350 diesel was exhibiting the same symptoms. I checked the air gap and it was too wide. I watched a YouTube video on the subject and the trick was to shim the clutch to bring the air gap back in spec. That was probably almost 4 years ago. Still working great. Clutch will definitely need replaced one day, but not now anyway.

Doug

 

[34Willys]

I don't remember needing any special tools to remove the plate, only to remove the clutch and coil assembly. You do have to energise the coil to hold the plate to the clutch, and then you can use the drive belt tension to hold the shaft and loosen the bolt or nut that holds the plate to the shaft. Then, carefully remove the plate and catch the shim(s) that are located behind it's extension.
Your's may be more complicated though.?

Patrick

 

[ns_in_tex]

I don't remember needing any special tools to remove the plate, only to remove the clutch and coil assembly. You do have to energise the coil to hold the plate to the clutch, and then you can use the drive belt tension to hold the shaft and loosen the bolt or nut that holds the plate to the shaft. Then, carefully remove the plate and catch the shim(s) that are located behind it's extension.
Your's may be more complicated though.?

Patrick

We were able get the nut off the clutch, but could not get the clutch to slide off. Was afraid would damage clutch if pried to hard. I have been trying for days to find the proper clutch removal tool for this Kubota with Denso 10P08E compressor, But have been unsuccessful. Today, we broke down & ordered a Mastercool 91212 tool, Hoping it fits.
I think the critical part is male thread that screws into the female clutch thread.
The 91212 shows to have a M22-1.5 pitch.
Here is hoping.

 

[34Willys]

Looks like it's a press fit, like a power steering pump pulley.
Bummer! I hate specialty tools for one simple job.
Volkswagen is the worst. I believe they have an engineering division that develops special tools, and then the chassis, engine, and body engineers are required to incorporate those into the new production designs.
Just take your time removing and installing so no threads get damaged and be sure of your clearances so you only have to do it once.

Patrick

 

[number two]

At 4200 hours on your very nice tractor,have you considered a new compressor/clutch combo?
Most likely available online for about $300,not the unreal OEM price.
Stop wasting your time with clutch replacement tools and just get the compressor you'll need sooner than later.
I've accumulated the clutch tools over the decades,but have finally come to realize that shortly after clutch repair the compressor needed replacement!
Good Luck!

 

[Mike1955]

We were able get the nut off the clutch, but could not get the clutch to slide off. Was afraid would damage clutch if pried to hard. I have been trying for days to find the proper clutch removal tool for this Kubota with Denso 10P08E compressor, But have been unsuccessful. Today, we broke down & ordered a Mastercool 91212 tool, Hoping it fits.
I think the critical part is male thread wethat screws into the female clutch thread.
The 91212 shows to have a M22-1.5 pitch.
Here is hoping.

Good luck. I’ve never looked at one. To bed you can’t find a used entire compressor to exchange with it

 

[Gord Baker]

Kubota L4610 HSTC, 4200 hrs,
My AC clutch is dropping out, even though it has current to the wire entering the compressor.
Happens most often after has been working fine for a while. Likely getting hotter, although engine temp is fine.
Some times it will cycle back on for a little bit, then back off.
We put an led lite in the cab, attached to the clutch power wire (near compressor entry), so we can see when it cycles off & on, from the pressure switch, ETC. AC works great for a little while, then gets hot in a hurry when the clutch drops out.
This happened today while the led lite was on. We were able to check wire at compressor entry point with meter. 13.5 volts but clutch not latched.
I know nothing about compressor clutches.

Sounds like the refrigerant is getting low in the system.

 

[DeepEastTexas]

Sitting here listening to Beryl’s slow rain!
And reading the comments. Y’all going round & round!
1. Find the low pressure switch. Unplug the connection & Jump it with a piece of wire. The clutch should stay engaged. If so it is low on Freon.
2. If it disengaged check the air gap. If it tight. The coil is likely shorted out!

 

[YLee Kioti]

So summary of this condition:
1-Clutch coil bad. Solution Megger the coil. No megger then check ohmic values across coil and each side to ground.
2- Low on freon and is merely cycling normally as the low pressure switch will protect system from freeze up.
3- Possible clutch plates are simply worn. I dealt with this on my 2001 power stroke. All systems checked out satisfactory. Clutch material was gone. Of course I kept the truck for 12 years!
$- Feel free to add others to help OP keep tabs and make reading easier on any aging eye...cough..cough heh....Have a safe week.


Lord have mercy on our friends down in Houston way during this season of storms!

 

[5030]

First thing I'd do is check the refrigerant level. I'm thinking it's low on R134. Always eliminate the easy stuff first.

 

[vanatic2]

Low resistance on coil = higher current through windings which could lead to: overheating of coil & failure to maintain pull and/or blown fuse due to high current through circuit. If power is present to clutch coils when compressor clutch disengages then refrigerant pressure is not the issue. The low &/or high pressure safety switches cut power to the clutch so no power would be present if it were low on refrigerant.